For the climax of Licence to Kill, Timothy Dalton dresses in a dark blue pick-and-pick suit very contemporary to 1989. Though it may not look expensive, the suit is from Florentine fashion designer Stefano Ricci. The jacket has two buttons with a low button stance and low-gorge, slightly wide notched lapels, with flapped pockets, three-button cuffs and no vent. In the scene before we see Dalton in the full suit, we see him in just the trousers, which have triple reverse pleats and plain hems. The suit has a very full fit with padded, extended shoulders, and though it’s fashionable for the era it still has a poor fit. Though it’s possible to have a well-fitting, full-cut jacket, the sloppy back on Dalton’s suit is unacceptable.
Dalton wears a white shirt with a small point collar, single-button mitre cuffs, a placket and a breast pocket. It’s a ready-to-wear shirt with a typical baggy fit. Again, the shirt is very typical for American and some Italian makers at the time. He wears a black belt and black low-vamp moccasins. The shoes are straight out of the Ian Fleming novels, and the rest of the outfit would be something the literary Bond would wear in concept—along with a black knitted tie—but not in execution.