A staple of the Connery Bond wardrobe is the dark solid tie. In Dr. No and From Russia With Love that tie was always a dark navy grenadine tie from Turnbull & Asser. Let’s not confuse that with the knitted silk ties that he wears throughout Goldfinger. While the grenadine might look similar in texture to the knit tie, they are completely unrelated. I’m sure you’re familiar with the knitted tie, which somewhat resembles a sock. It’s a tube of knitted silk with a straight hem at the bottom, though some are made with triangular bottoms. It’s a casual tie (which might seem like an oxymoron these days) and disliked by many. Yet is was worn by the literary Bond and made it to a few films as well.
But for now we will discuss the grenadine tie. Grenadine silk is woven, not knitted, and the tie is constructed like any normal tie: it has folds, an interlining and, of course, a triangular tip. It’s a luxurious silk, very delicate and much more formal than a knitted tie. In black it makes an excellent funeral tie, and this is exactly what James Bond wears to the funeral at the beginning of Thunderball.
I know of two weavers of grenadine silk, Fermo Fossati and Seteria Bianchi, both in Italy. Most of the grenadine tie makers get their silk from these weavers. There are two different types of grenadine silk: Garza Grossa (pictured above) and Garza Fina (below left), the former being the type that James Bond wore. Turnbull & Asser still makes Garza Grossa grenadine ties, and they can also be found at many other stores on Jermyn Street and elsewhere. You may also find “mock” grenadine (below right), which can still be very nice.