A Black Herringbone Suit for a Funeral in Spectre

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James Bond’s black herringbone three-piece suit in Spectre introduces Tom Ford’s signature “Windsor” model to the Bond series. This model is characterised by wide peaked lapels and aggressive shoulders. The look is inspired by suits from the 1940s as well as by 1960s and 1970s British designer Tommy Nutter’s suits. Though Bond is in disguise as an Italian gangster, the style of his suit is much more British than it is Italian. Bold and flashy doesn’t mean it’s Italian, but it’s also not the look a traditional English gentleman would sport either.

Bond has typically avoided wearing solid black suits because they’re neither the most traditional nor the most stylish. They have their place at funerals, which makes this black suit fitting for the situation. The only other time Bond wears a solid black suit is to Morton Slumber’s funeral home in Diamonds Are Forever. That suit is also a three-piece, and this suit is its direct successor. Though black suits usually look dull, this suiting is woven in a large herringbone weave to give it texture so it doesn’t look flat. Whilst this suit is 100% wool, the herringbone weave means it reflects more light and ends up looking livelier and shinier. Seeing it in person, it’s brighter than all of the other blacks around, even though it is still black. This is the rare example of an exciting black suiting.

The jacket has straight shoulders with a heavy amount of padding and roped sleeveheads. There is fullness and shape in the chest, which gives it a more bespoke look and feel, but the chest still fits close to the body, as does the waist. The length is a bit on the short side. The front has two buttons at a medium stance and medium-wide peaked lapels with belly. Belly is the convex curve of the outer edge that makes the lapels look wider than they actually are. Tom Ford spoke about his preference for wide lapels in a documentary that aired on 23 October 2011 as the second episode of the television programme Visionaries: Inside the Creative Mind:

I like a big lapel. I’ve always hated little skinny lapels. It doesn’t mean I haven’t ever done them before, but I’ve always felt they feel a little sad, like you don’t have enough fabric.

The jacket is detailed with straight pockets with wide flaps and a ticket pocket. The breast pocket has a curved “barchetta” shape. There are five buttons on the cuffs, and the last button has a longer buttonhole and is left open. There is a single vent to the back.

The waistcoat has six buttons with five to button—the last button and buttonhole are placed on the cutaway part at the bottom and would strain if fastened. There are four curved welt pockets on the front that match the style of the jacket’s breast pocket.

The trousers have a flat front, a medium low rise and narrow, straight legs with plain hems. This is the only Tom Ford suit of all the Bond films to not have turn-ups on the trousers, and this suit may not have turn-ups because it is more formal than any other suit Daniel Craig has worn in his Bond films. The waistband has a square extension with a hidden hook-and-eye closure and slide-buckle adjusters at the sides. The side pockets are on the seam, which curves forward at the top.

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Costume designer Jany Temime was quoted about this outfit from Spectre on the James Bond 007 Facebook page:

Bond is in disguise and has to fit in with gangsters, moving in a daring way. The details in the shirt, the collar is more Italian style: it is Bond in disguise.

The white cotton poplin shirt from Tom Ford has a point collar with eyelets and metal bar, cocktail cuffs, a plain front and rear darts for a slim fit. Though Temime says the pinned collar is an Italian style, it’s not particularly Italian these days. It has some historical association with both Italians and Americans. Roger Moore wears a pinned collar in his 1976 film Street People when playing his Sicilian father in 1930s flashbacks. Pierce Brosnan almost always wears pinned collars during the first two series of Remington Steele, which reflected trends in America at the time as well as his character’s love for classic Hollywood films. Pinned collars are too fussy for James Bond to wear apart from being in disguise, and they’re not particularly appropriate for a modern British character.

Tom Ford calls the cocktail cuff on his shirts the “Dr. No cuff”, named after the first Bond film to feature Bond wearing shirts with cocktail cuffs. The cuff has a similarly rounded shape to the cocktail cuffs that Sean Connery wears in five of his Bond films, though the two buttons on this cuff are both positioned closer to the fold. The top button on this cuff is mostly hidden under the fold, whilst it’s always visible on Connery’s cuffs when has has both buttons fastened. Spectre is the ninth Bond film to feature James Bond wearing cocktail cuffs, after five films with Sean Connery and three films with Roger Moore. Turnbull & Asser made a bespoke cocktail cuff pattern for Pierce Brosnan when making shirts for Die Another Day, but no shirts cocktail cuffs were featured in that film.

The black-on-black woven check silk tie is 9.5 cm—or 3 3/4 inches—wide to go with the wide lapels on the suit jacket. The lapels are wider than the tie, though ties that are narrower than the lapels can still work. To fit his disguise as a gangster, Bond knots his tie in a windsor knot. Bond completes his outfit with a white silk handkerchief with a black border stuffed—rather than meticulously folded—into his breast pocket. The handkerchief measures 40 cm by 40 cm.

The boots that Bond wears with this suit are the flashy Crockett & Jones Camberley model in black calf. The style is best described as a double-monk boot, where the straps buckle from the inside quarter over the outside quarter. Like on monk shoes, the quarter are both over the tongue. This boot is not a Jodhpur boot, where the vamp and tongue are positioned on top of the quarters. Boots are a good match with narrow trousers because narrow trousers must be hemmed shorter, and thus boots will prevent sock from showing with shorter trousers. Whilst monk boots are not likely something the literary James Bond would wear, they satisfy his dislike for laces.

Bond wears this suit with a black double-breasted bridge coat, sunglasses and black driving gloves, which will be covered at a later date.

A Blue Russian Atomic Energy Agency Uniform

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To infiltrate a Russian ICBM base in Kazakhstan in The World Is Not Enough, Bond poses as Russian nuclear scientist Mikhail Arkov. As a representative of the Russian Atomic Energy Agency, Bond wears a blue uniform with their logo on it. The logo comes in the forms of a small patch on the left breast pocket and a large patch on the back of a grey circle with a red star and red Greek letters alpha, sigma and delta with a grey triangle at the bottom pointing down.

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The uniform is made up of matching jacket and trousers in heavy medium blue cotton. The jacket has a zip-front with a fly that fastens down with six hidden poppers. The front of the jacket has four patch pockets with pointed flaps that secure with hidden poppers. The waist cinches with a drawstring to give the oversized jacket some shape. Low armholes contribute to the jacket looking oversized. The collar stands up and can secure across the throat with a Velcroed strap. The cuffs have wide Velcro straps to tighten the sleeves around the wrist. Shoulder straps, silver reflective bands around the forearms and silver reflective strips on the upper arms detail the jacket.

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The uniform trousers buckle at the waist. They have a flat front and a large cargo pocket matching the jacket’s pocket style on each leg. The bottom of each leg is finished with two silver reflective bands.

An example of the entire uniform and a separate jacket sold a Bonhams in Knightsbridge on 16 June 2009. The uniform sold for £2,400 whilst a separate lot of only the jacket sold for £2,640. According to the auction, the jacket and trousers of the uniform were both made by costumiers Angels & Bermans especially for Pierce Brosnan.

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Under the uniform, Bond wears his white dress shirt from Turnbull & Asser that he was previously wearing with his midnight blue dinner suit. The shirt has a marcella spread collar, marcella double cuffs and a marcella bib front. The collar and cuffs have 1/4-inch stitching. The shirt has a plain front without a separate placket. The shirt is worn with mother of pearl studs and round cufflinks in gold and mother of pearl.

Bond wears black patent leather boots with this outfit. The boots have lug lacing and black rubber lug soles from Vibram.

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The Saint: A Black-and-White Hopsack Suit with a Double-Breasted Waistcoat

Roger Moore in "Simon and Delilah", with Lois Maxwell who plays Miss Moneypenny in the first 14 Bond films

Roger Moore in “Simon and Delilah”, with Lois Maxwell who plays Miss Moneypenny in the first 14 Bond films

In a number of fifth series episodes of The Saint—including “The Helpful Pirate”, “The Convenient Monster”, “The Angel’s Eye”, “The Persistent Patriots”, “Simon and Delilah” and “A Double in Diamonds”—Roger Moore wears a black and white hopsack three-piece suit. The overall look of the cloth is a medium-dark grey with a lot of sheen. The sheen suggests a wool and mohair blend, which was very popular in the 1960s. Mohair often came in these tone-tone hopsack weaves in the 1960s because the iridescent two-tone look accentuates the natural sheen of mohair. Hopsack—a basketweave—is also a popular weave for mohair because the open weave takes advantage of mohair’s cool-wearing properties.

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With a tie-clip microphone in “Simon and Delilah”

Cyril Castle, who tailored Moore for The Saint, The Persuaders, Live and Let Die and The Man with the Golden Gun, cut this suit. Like all of Roger Moore’s suits in The Saint‘s fifth series, this suit’s jacket has a button three front. The jacket is cut with softly padded shoulders, roped sleeveheads, a draped chest and a suppressed waist. A low button stance serves, along with the drape, to make Roger Moore’s chest look more masculine and imposing. The considerably narrow lapels add to this effect and make the entire look overdone.

For a dressier look, this suit jacket has the minimalist touches of jetted pockets and no rear vent. Like on most of the jackets in the fifth series, the cuffs are gauntlet cuffs with a single button. The suits’s trousers have a darted front, no belt, frogmouth pockets and narrow, tapered legs with plain hems.

Moore reaches into the pockets of his double-breasted in "The Angels Eye"

Moore reaches into the pockets of his double-breasted in “The Angels Eye”

The double-breasted waistcoat has six buttons in a keystone formation with three to button. A double-breasted waistcoat is an unusual piece and is more formal than a single-breasted waistcoat. It’s perfect for evening formal dress and morning dress, but it’s equally appropriate on a dressier lounge suit such as this shiny mohair suit. It’s certainly a dandyish piece and serves as a way to stand out from the crowd, but it doesn’t draw much more attention than a single-breasted waistcoat would, especially if the jacket is kept buttoned. It lends a rather old-world look to this suit, but since the suit is very modern with narrow lapels and narrow trousers it doesn’t have enough weight to make the suit look old-fashioned.

Notice the gauntlet cuffs, in "SImon and Delilah"

Notice the gauntlet cuffs, in “SImon and Delilah”

A suit like this is too bold for standard business dress. Mohair is too shiny and thus flashy, and the double-breasted waistcoat is too unconventional. These elements also make the suit too formal for the office. However, it is perfect for a fancy evening out or to wear to a day or night wedding, either as a guest or as the groom. Though mohair is a cool-wearing cloth and good for warm weather, the extra layer of a waistcoat gives this suit a wider temperature range.

Moore coordinates this suit with two different tie and shoe combinations. The shirts are always ecru, and many or all have white hairlines stripes. The shirts have a moderate spread collar, plain front and double cuffs. The collar has a tall stand but short points. In “The Helpful Pirate”, “The Convenient Monster” and “The Angel’s Eye” Moore wears a narrow medium grey satin tie and black slip-on shoes with elastic. In “The Persistent Patriots”, “Simon and Delilah” and “A Double in Diamonds” he wears an narrow olive satin tie and medium brown slip-on shoes with elastic. Moore knots his ties with a small four-in-hand knot.

The suit jacket buttoned in "The Convenient Monster"

The suit jacket buttoned in “The Convenient Monster”. With the jacket buttoned the double-breasted waistcoat doesn’t look so unusual.

In “Simon and Delilah” Moore wears a tie clip with a microphone built in (pictured second from top). A tie clip is typically unnecessary with a waistcoat because the waistcoat keeps the tie in place. Sometimes the waistcoat doesn’t do this job as well as it should and a man may still want a tie clip to keep his tie perfectly in place. In that case, the tie clip should be worn under the waistcoat. It belongs approximately three-quarters of the way down the tie and away from the face. Of course, a microphone would be less effective under the waistcoat. Ideally a two-piece suit should have been chosen for this scene. On the other hand, the waistcoat means that the tine clip is higher and thus in better sight for the viewers of the show.

Though he usually wears dark grey socks with this suit, in “The Persistent Patriots” Moore wears this suit with beige socks—which coordinate with the shirt more than they do with the suit. Though they by no means clash with the outfit, light-coloured socks can draw attention to the feet when attention should be drawn to the face.

Beige socks with this suit in "The Persistent Patriots"

Beige socks with this suit in “The Persistent Patriots”

Never Say Never Again: Bond Borrows a Striped Bathrobe

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When Bond arrives aboard Largo’s yacht the Flying Saucer in Never Say Never Again, he’s wearing a wet suit. He removes the wetsuit immediately and when he climbs on deck he’s only wearing a pair of tight, mid-thigh-length navy swimming trunks with red and white stripes. Largo’s butler greets Bond and gives him a bathrobe and matching towel to wear over his shoulders to dry off.

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Bond’s briefly seen swimming trunks

Bond’s striped bathrobe in Spectre makes the striped bathrobe from Never Say Never Again relevant again, though the colour schemes are vastly different. The bathrobe Largo provides Bond has a bold pattern of wide and narrow yellow, navy and periwinkle stripes. There are also narrow sections of white and coloured pin stripes in each of the three respective colours. The bathrobe is made from a very absorbent waffle cotton or microfibre.

The calf-length robe cinches around the waist with a belt. There are two open patch pockets at the sides below the belt. The chest has a black patch with a gold insignia.

Close-up of the waffle fabric

Close-up of the waffle fabric

Like many of the bathrobes and dressing gowns that Bond wears, this one is not Bond’s own and not something to judge his taste by. The pastel colours were very popular in the 1980s, and his polo later in the film follows the same colour scheme. The shared colours between the bathrobe and polo may signify that Bond also got the polo from Largo. However, the shirt and trousers that Bond wears aboard the Flying Saucer inexplicably match his own since he brought no clothes with him.

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Bond in Brown Brunello Cucinelli in Spectre

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When visiting Morocco in Spectre, James Bond wears a light brown jacket and slightly lighter khaki aged gabardine chinos, both from Brunello Cucinelli. Daniel Craig is a big fan of Brunello Cucinelli and is often seen wearing their clothes at James Bond press events and in his personal life. It was likely his decision to dress Bond in this outfit. Tom Ford produced a khaki left-hand twill cotton two-piece suit as part of their Spectre collection, and it’s likely Bond was originally supposed to wear it in the scenes where he instead wears this outfit. Spectre has had the largest input from Daniel Craig in all of his Bond films’ wardrobes.

Since Bond is back in Morocco, this outfit recalls the tan gabardine suit that Timothy Dalton wears in Tangier in The Living Daylights. The jacket and trousers in similar shades of brown combined with a knitted tie loosely recalls the brown barleycorn hacking jacket and fawn cavalry twill trousers that Sean Connery wears in Goldfinger. The return of brown tailored clothing also reminds us of the numerous light brown suits that Roger Moore wears in his Bond films. This is the first time James Bond wears an odd jacket that’s not part of a suit since Pierce Brosnan’s navy blazer in GoldenEye.

The jacket is made from a blend of 51% wool, 41% linen and 8% silk. This blend gives the jacket durability and breathability with a slubby texture. It is has three buttons down the front with the lapels rolled gently at the top button. The jacket is cut with narrow soft shoulders, natural sleeveheads, a lean chest and a short length, all which give the jacket a Neapolitan-inspired look. The curved “barchetta” breast pocket adds to this. The jacket is detailed with double vents (the only jacket with this style rear Bond wears in Spectre), four cuff buttons and slanted pockets. Both the cut and the style of this jacket give it a casual look that pairs well with chinos.

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The medium-width lapels have a fishmouth shape, where the top edge of the lapel points outward and gives the lapel a narrower notch. The lapels are finished with noticeable prick-stitching about half a centimetre from the edge. This infuses the jacket with a sporty look similar to swelled edges, but the effect here is more subtle. The buttonhole in the left lapel is a keyhole shape, which is usually frowned upon for the lapel buttonhole because a straight hole looks more elegant and the keyhole buttonhole is usually a shortcut. This type of buttonhole is more functional than a straight buttonhole, and a button on the back of the right lapel signifies that the lapels can indeed close. On this jacket, the keyhole buttonhole in the lapel is not a shortcut becuse it is intended to be a functional buttonhole.

The khaki cotton gabardine chinos are only slightly lighter than the jacket but have a smoother texture than the jacket has. They are not, however, different enough from the jacket to prevent this from looking like a mismatched suit. They have a flat front, a low rise and narrow straight legs. Bond wears the bottoms rolled up for a casual look. The chinos are pressed with a crease down each leg, but the crease is faded and hardly noticeable. Bond wears the chinos with a brown woven leather belt from Brunello Cucinelli. The belt has a solid brown leather tab at the end with holes for the buckle to feed through. It’s not the type of belt where the whole piece is braided and the buckle feeds through the braid.

Bond’s white shirt is from Tom Ford. The collar is the same point collar that Daniel Craig wears on his shirts with all the other O’Connor suits in Spectre, and cuffs are two-button cocktail cuffs. Double cuffs would be too formal for this outfit, but cocktail cuffs give the shirt a more special look than ordinary button cuffs would.

The tie, also from Tom Ford, is rust brown knitted silk with a pointed wide end and a straight narrow end. Though most knitted ties have straight ends, Tom Ford and others now sell knitted ties with pointed ends so the tie looks more like an ordinary folded tie. Like with the infamous pink tie in Diamonds Are Forever, this tie is too short and ends a few inches above the trousers. It’s not entirely the tie’s fault since the trousers sit too low, but ideally the tie should be a bit longer and the trousers should site a bit higher. A knitted tie is an effective choice for this casual tailored outfit, which could just as easily have been worn without a tie. The tie adds a level of class to this outfit that one has come to expect from Bond. It is tied in a four-in-hand knot.

The sunglasses are the Tom Ford Henry model. Bond’s boots are the Kenton Suede Boots from J. Crew in a tan colour appropriately named “Sahara”. Though it’s unusual for Bond to wear an American brand, these were likely a personal selection of Daniel Craig’s. They have five pairs of eyelets and three pairs of speed hooks, a plain toe and red mini-lug soles.

The Man from U.N.C.L.E. (2015): Glen Urquhart Check Suit

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Henry Cavill stars as Napoleaon Solo in the 2015 film The Man from U.N.C.L.E., which is a remake of the 1960s television series of the same name that starred Robert Vaughn. London tailor Timothy Everest, who tailored Ralph Fiennes for Skyfall and Spectre and Christoph Waltz and Dave Bautista for Spectre, tailored Henry Cavill’s suits. Whilst the character in the original television series is dressed in a wholly American 1960s Hollywood style, the film’s costume designer Joanna Johnston wanted to give Solo a British look. Solo’s suits are inspired by the experimental fashion of mid 1960s England, which isn’t right for the film’s 1963 setting or for the traditionally minded character, but Solo nevertheless dresses very stylishly.

The television character often wears checked suits, and a number of checked suits were brought back for the film. One of these is a three piece suit in a black and white Glen Urquhart check with a blue windowpane overcheck. George Lazenby wears a suit in a similar cloth in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. The jacket has buttons covered in the Glen Urquhart check cloth, and the buttons alternate between the large and small parts of the Glen Urquhart check.

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Everest tailored the suit with a three buttons down the front (instead of the single button that Solo often wore in the television series), straight shoulders with roped sleeveheads, a clean chest, and a close-fitting but straight waist. The squared-off foreparts combined with Cavill buttoning both the middle and the top buttons give the jacket a rather boxy look, but it has a dynamically shaped silhouette that fits Cavill’s athletic physique very well. The jacket is detailed with narrow lapels, straight flapped pockets, a ticket pocket, four cuff buttons and a single vent. The jacket’s length is about an inch shorter than the traditional length. The squared-off foreparts make the jacket look longer in front, though the short length is noticeable from behind.

The trousers have a flat front and narrow, tapered legs with plain hems. The waistcoat has five buttons and a straight bottom, which complements the straight bottom of the suit jacket. There are two welt pockets on the front of the waistcoat.

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The ecru shirt’s point collar contrasts with the button-down collars that Solo typically wore in the television series. The point collar is fashionably short for the 1960s trends—too short for the points to stay anchored to the chest—and has no tie space. The shirt also has double cuffs.

Solo’s tie is dark grey with a black and white pattern, most likely printed. The scale of the pattern is larger than the houndstooth section of the Glen Urquhart check but smaller than the repeat of the whole check, so it is able to pair well with the checked suit. Solo ties it in a four-in-hand knot. The ecru silk pocket square with black polka dots is casually stuffed into the out-breast pocket with one point up. This is rather flashy for the 1960s, when people usually wore folded white linen handkerchiefs in their breast pockets. In the television series, Solo did not wear pocket squares. Cavill’s shoes are dark brown oxfords.

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Overall, the suit is interesting and unique, and the outfit is stylishly put together. The suit, however, does not reflect the American character from the television show nor does it reflect the year when the film takes place. This was all done on purpose for the sake of dressing the character in the costume designer’s taste with a blatant disregard for what the character should authentically be wearing.

You can read more about Timothy Everest’s work on the film at TimothyEverest.co.uk

The Untraditional Ivory Dinner Jacket in Spectre

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After a 30-year gap, James Bond finally wears an ivory dinner jacket again in Spectre. A View to a Kill was the last film that featured Bond in an ivory dinner jacket. Daniel Craig’s dinner jacket in Spectre is made in Tom Ford’s “WIndsor” model, which is Ford’s most famous model, characterised by its wide peaked lapels with belly and aggressive shoulders. The look is inspired by suits from the 1940s as well as by British designer Tommy Nutter’s suits. Though the overall cut of this dinner jacket in Spectre is classic-inspired, the details are not.

Bond’s visit to Morocco in Spectre necessitated the return of the ivory dinner jacket. Costume designer Jany Temime is quoted about this dinner jacket in the book Blood Sweat and Bond: Behind the Scenes of Spectre curated by Rankin:

I told Sam [Mendes] I couldn’t do a better tuxedo than Skyfall. But then I thought Morocco deserved that colonial touch, a feeling of Casablanca where time stops and everything is so iconic.

Temime is also quoted on the James Bond 007 Facebook page saying something similar about this dinner jacket:

It was very hard to do better than the Skyfall blue tuxedo but I took my inspiration from Humphrey Bogart in the film Casablanca and Morocco. Daniel added the red carnation buttonhole and it looked absolutely sublime.

Humphrey Bogart’s ivory double-breasted, shawl-collar dinner jacket in Casablanca is the most famous ivory dinner jacket in cinematic history (which Emilio Largo copied in Thunderball), and Bond’s trip to Morocco along with his status of “black tie master” gave him an obligation to honour that piece. Though a shawl collar would have brought more of the spirit of Casablanca to this dinner jacket, Temime instead went with peaked lapels to follow the Bond style established by Sean Connery’s ivory dinner jacket in Goldfinger. The wider, more classic peaked lapels on this Tom Ford dinner jacket actually make it more closely resemble Sean Connery’s dinner jacket in Diamonds Are Forever than the jacket in Goldfinger. Though the red carnation makes us think of Goldfinger, the dinner jacket itself is quite different from any dinner jacket Bond has previous worn.

The dinner jacket is made from a breathable silk and viscose faille. It is cut with a shaped—but close—chest and a suppressed waist. The shoulders are straight with a healthy amount of of padding and are finished with roped sleeveheads. The shoulders, however, look less aggressive than on Tom Ford’s usual “Windsor” jackets and have a more natural look. The jacket length is a little on the short side.

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The details are what throw off this dinner jacket. The most obvious error is a button two front, which already brings this dinner jacket down to the level of Timothy Dalton’s black dinner jacket in Licence to Kill. A single-breasted dinner jacket should only have one button, no exception. The second button disrupts the elegant lines that a dinner jacket should have. The single vent is another error on this dinner jacket. Most traditionally, a dinner jacket should not have any vents, though short double vents have been acceptable for half a century. The single vent is the sportiest of all vent styles and is completely out of place on a dinner jacket.

Silk facings—grosgrain silk on this dinner jacket—are also an untraditional detail. The lapels, jetted pocket and covered buttons (including the five on the sleeve) are all trimmed in grosgrain silk. Whilst black and midnight blue dinner jackets need silk facings to distinguish them from suit jackets, a ivory dinner jacket does not need this differentiation. Without silk facings, an ivory dinner jacket still looks nothing like a sports coat. On film, the silk facings aren’t very apparent, but the facings on this jacket look quite gaudy in person. Silk facings also mean that there will be two different silks in the outfit—white on the jacket versus black on the the trouser stripes and accessories. The black silk bow tie clashes against the white silk lapels.

All of the untraditional details—the second button on the front, the single vent and the silk facings—are marks of a cheap rental and separate this dinner jacket from the five elegant dinner jackets Bond has previously worn. The construction—apparent in the shaping—and materials put into a Tom Ford jacket, however, ensure that it does not look cheap. This dinner jacket stands above Dalton’s from Licence to Kill based on its better fit and superior quality, but all others in the series—ivory, black or midnight blue—are done better.

Bond wears the ivory dinner jacket with black wool and mohair blend grain de poudre black tie trousers. Grain de poudre translates from French into English as “grain power”, and it has a fine diagonal grainy texture. Mohair gives the trousers a bit of sheen whilst making them slightly more comfortable in the Moroccan heat. The trousers have a flat front, medium-low rise, an extended waistband with a hook-and-eye closure, slide-buckle side adjusters and a black satin silk stripe down the outseam on either side. The lower rise of the trousers is masked by a black satin silk cummerbund from Tom Ford, which has only two large pleats. White moiré braces from Albert Thurston hold up the trousers, and these are the same braces Bond wears with his black Brioni dinner suit in Casino Royale and his midnight blue Tom Ford dinner suit in Skyfall.

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The white cotton poplin dress shirt is also from Tom Ford, and its details recall many of the shirts Sean Connery and Roger Moore wore in their Bond films. It has Tom Ford’s “small collar”, which is a slightly short classic spread collar. The front has a pleated bib and is fastened with mother-of-pearl buttons. Spectre marks the first time since The Living Daylights that Bond has had visible mother-of-pearl buttons down the front placket of his dress shirt. The shirts in the films since have either shown studs down the front or covered the buttons with a fly front placket. The shirt also has double cuffs, gauntlet button, a split yoke and darts in the back.

Bond’s black diamond-pointed, butterfly-shaped bow tie should be in satin silk to match the satin cummerbund and satin stripes on the trousers. However, it does not have much sheen and is likely grosgrain to match the texture of the lapels. This is the third time Bond wears the often-neglected classic diamond bow tie, after Dr. No and Quantum of Solace.

Daniel Craig chose a red carnation to wear in the lapel on this dinner jacket to pay homage to Goldfinger, even though the dinner jacket only superficially resembles the dinner jacket Sean Connery wears in Goldfinger. The heavy filters in Spectre make the carnation looks much darker than it looks in reality.

Bond’s shoes are the Crockett & Jones “Alex” model wholecut in black calf. The sleek and clean elegance of the plain wholecut is a modern alternative to patent plain-toe oxford or opera pump. Patent leather looks passé to some, whilst well-polished calf can have a more understated look. The “Alex” has five eyelet pairs and a chiselled toe. Bond wears the same shoes with his midnight blue dinner suit in Skyfall.

James Bond and Double Cuffs

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Rounded double cuffs in Goldfinger

The double cuff, also known as the French cuff, is a type of shirt cuff that folds back on itself and fastens with cufflinks. The double cuff is the most formal type of cuff after the single-link cuff, which also fastens with cufflinks but only has a stiff single layer. For the double cuff to fold over neatly, it needs to have a light and soft interfacing, either fused or sewn. A heavy or stiff interfacing won’t fold over as nicely, and the reason for the cuff folding is to give the cuff stability without the stiffness of the single cuff. Double cuffs should always be fastened in the kissing position and never overlapping like a button cuff.

Double cuffs on a Tom Ford shirt in Quantum of Solace

Square double cuffs on a Tom Ford shirt in Quantum of Solace

The formality of the double cuff makes it the standard cuff on shirts for black tie, though cocktail cuffs are also appropriate with black tie. Double cuffs are a minimum requirement for morning dress, but single-link cuffs are a dressier option. Double cuffs are also appropriate with any suit for any occasion. They pair nicely with blazers and most sports coats as well. The formality of double cuffs, however, demands a tie. They should not be worn in a casual environment.

Double cuffs vary primarily in two ways: the corner style and the placement of the link-holes. Most double cuffs have a square corner. They may also have rounded corners or mitred (angle-cut) corners, and typically this describes the corner at the back edge of the cuff and not the folded edge. Rounded cuffs have the benefit of sliding through jacket cuffs more smoothly. Double cuffs may be styled in other ways, such as with a mitred corner at the fold or with a contoured back edge, but these are fussier and less traditional designs.

Rounded double cuffs in For Your Eyes Only

Rounded double cuffs on a Frank Foster shirt in For Your Eyes Only

Though double cuffs with square corners are technically the most formal, practically there is no difference. Any style of double cuff can be worn the same way. Bond has worn square, mitred and rounded double cuffs with black tie, and he has worn square and rounded double cuffs with his suits. The mitred cuffs on his dress shirts in Goldfinger have unusually large mitred corners.

Notice the large mitred corner on the double cuff

Notice the large mitred corner on the double cuff in Goldfinger

The placement of the link-holes has varied on Bond’s double cuffs. On Bond’s British shirts from Turnbull & Asser and Frank Foster, the link-holes are placed close to the fold, which shows off the cufflinks and gives the cuff both flare and flair. On Bond’s Sulka, Brioni and Tom Ford shirts, the link-holes are centred on the cuffs. This prevents the cuffs from flaring out, meaning they’re less likely to get stuck inside a jacket sleeve. This link-hole placement has the downside of hiding the cufflinks further inside the jacket sleeves.

From Dr. No through Licence to Kill, James Bond almost exclusively wears double cuffs with black tie and other formal wear. Goldfinger is the exception, where Bond also wears double cuffs with his suits and sports coats. Starting with GoldenEye, Bond almost always has worn double cuff shirts with his suits as well.

James Bond breaks the rules in Quantum of Solace when he wears a shirt with double cuffs with his shawl-collar cardigan, but the results are less than favourable. Not only do formal double cuffs clash with this casual ensemble, they bind under a snug knitted cuff.

Quantum-of-Solace-Cardigan-Cuffs

A double cuff shirt from Tom Ford under a shawl-collar cardigan in Quantum of Solace