It’s time to introduce Roger Moore’s clothing. Roger Moore was introduced as James Bond in Live and Let Die in 1973, a time Bond’s clothing somewhat reflected the fashions of the period. The 70s fashion influence can be seen in the wider lapels, ties and pocket flaps, tall collars, deep vents, and flared trousers. Whilst Bond’s clothing in Live and Let Die (as well as in The Man With the Golden Gun made a year and a half later) takes cues from 70s fashion trends, it’s quite tame compared to the villains’ wardrobes.
Today we’ll be focusing on the light grey tropical suit Bond wears briefly on his arrival in San Monique. The suit is tailored by Roger Moore’s long-time tailor Cyril Castle, who like Sean Connery’s tailor Anthony Sinclair also worked on Conduit Street in London. Castle made Roger Moore’s suits for his television series The Saint and The Persuaders, as well as for other movies in the 1960s and 1970s. Prior to the Bond films Roger Moore wore his single-breasted suit jackets with a 3 button front but followed Connery’s Bond with a 2-button jacket. Like Connery’s suit jackets, Moore’s jackets have a somewhat low button stance, though the wider lapels on Moore’s jackets help the button stance appear to be not too low. The jacket has soft shoulders and a cleaner chest than Sean Connery’s suits. One thing easy to notice are the deep side vents on Roger Moore’s suit jackets that must be over 12 inches long. The jacket also has flapped, slanted pockets.
The most unique part of the jacket is the sleeve cuff (see below). It has what might be called a link button. The end of the cuff is similar to a linked shirt cuff where the ends kiss rather than overlap like on a barrel cuff. There is a button seen on either side of the cuff. The 2 buttons are sewn together with a shank and act like cuff links. It gives a flare to the end of the sleeves, which harmonises nicely with the slight flare of the trousers. The trousers have a darted front with 3-button side adjusters, 2 rear pockets and a coin pocket under the waistband on the front right.
The shirt is off-white with a moderate spread collar, front placket and 2-button cocktail cuffs, made by Frank Foster, and the tie is plain red, tied in a four-in-hand knot.