Light Grey Tropical Suit

It’s time to introduce Roger Moore’s clothing. Roger Moore was introduced as James Bond in Live and Let Die in 1973, a time Bond’s clothing somewhat reflected the fashions of the period. The 70s fashion influence can be seen in the wider lapels, ties and pocket flaps, tall collars, deep vents, and flared trousers. Whilst Bond’s clothing in Live and Let Die (as well as in The Man With the Golden Gun made a year and a half later) takes cues from 70s fashion trends, it’s quite tame compared to the villains’ wardrobes.

Today we’ll be focusing on the light grey tropical suit Bond wears briefly on his arrival in San Monique. The suit is tailored by Roger Moore’s long-time tailor Cyril Castle, who like Sean Connery’s tailor Anthony Sinclair also worked on Conduit Street in London. Castle made Roger Moore’s suits for his television series The Saint and The Persuaders, as well as for other movies in the 1960s and 1970s. Prior to the Bond films Roger Moore wore his single-breasted suit jackets with a 3 button front but followed Connery’s Bond with a 2-button jacket. Like Connery’s suit jackets, Moore’s jackets have a somewhat low button stance, though the wider lapels on Moore’s jackets help the button stance appear to be not too low. The jacket has soft shoulders and a cleaner chest than Sean Connery’s suits. One thing easy to notice are the deep side vents on Roger Moore’s suit jackets that must be over 12 inches long. The jacket also has flapped, slanted pockets.

The most unique part of the jacket is the sleeve cuff (see below). It has what might be called a link button. The end of the cuff is similar to a linked shirt cuff where the ends kiss rather than overlap like on a barrel cuff. There is a button seen on either side of the cuff. The 2 buttons are sewn together with a shank and act like cuff links. It gives a flare to the end of the sleeves, which harmonises nicely with the slight flare of the trousers. The trousers have a darted front with 3-button side adjusters, 2 rear pockets and a coin pocket under the waistband on the front right.

The shirt is off-white with a moderate spread collar, front placket and 2-button cocktail cuffs, made by Frank Foster, and the tie is plain red, tied in a four-in-hand knot.

11 thoughts on “Light Grey Tropical Suit

  1. Sorry to hog your comments, I am just glad to be able to talk about this subject with other interested people. You have a lot of knowledge in this area! Are you going to move onto Roger Moore's safari suits? The bell-bottomed dinner suits? The powder blue ensemble he wore in Live and Let Die? Sean Connery's hideous dark blue blue short sleeved shirt and matching trousers Thunderball? Just kidding

    There are some outfits that I'd love for you to discuss though:

    Sean Connery's oddly (metal) buttoned blue gingham shirt in From Russia With Love;

    his dinner suit in Goldfinger;

    The mid-grey rollneck in You Only Live Twice, which inspired me to seek out an almost identical mid-grey Sunspel one.

  2. I hope you didnt forget about Lazenby's white/cream coloured suit, or his peak lapel dinner jacket with ruffled shirt, both firsts for Bond at that point.

  3. I never even noticed those link-cuffs before. Very interesting to see on a suit sleeve.

    This blog is turning into a great resource; keep it going.

  4. Matt, I'm really enjoying your work — thanks so much. A question about turnback cuffs with "Frank Foster" button(s). Are there buttons on both the outside AND inside of the cuff? It's very difficult to tell, but I thought I saw an inside button in a scene in NSNA. — Mike

  5. Anon 2, the cuff has the same concept as a button-down collar. The cuff is fastened around the wrist with 1 button and the 2 turnback points (actually rounded) are fastened to the cuff each with a button. Like a button-down collar the cuff will roll back. I'll eventually write an entry about the cuffs, but after I start to run out of clothes from the James Bond series.

  6. Could cufflinks be worn with this link button cuff? I was thinking that the cufflinks on the shirt wouldn’t fit.

  7. Sorry, so late coming to this, Matt, and I’m not trying to be pedantic, but there are quite noticeable variations in your descriptions of Moore’s red ties.

    I really think that this particular one is more of a burgundy shade than a “plain red”, or at the very least a very deep, dark red. The same goes for the almost identically coloured tie worn with the marine blue suit from TMWTGG, which you describe as “deep red”, so definitely closer to the actual colour, but that too seems very close to burgundy from what I can see. On the other hand, the one worn with the grey double breasted suit in TMWTGG you also describe as simply “red” but it’s a completely different shade to this tie here, more of a deep red. The only tie I could say was just plain red was the one he wore in the office in AVTAK.

    Perhaps a closer look on Blu Ray might settle it?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

five − 1 =

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>