The charcoal flannel suit has made many appearances throughout the Bond series, sometimes as a two-piece suit and other times with a waistcoat, as Roger Moore wears his in A View to a Kill. This suit is made by Douglas Hayward in a heavy woolen flannel. Woolen flannel is made of carded yarns and is typically heavier and warmer that worsted flannel. The weave is visible in worsted flannel but not in woolen flannel. Woolen flannel is the fuzziest of cloths, and it doesn’t have a very crisp or formal look. The trousers don’t hold as sharp a crease, and they don’t hold the crease as long. In a three-piece suit, woolen flannel is especially warm, which can be necessary for cold days in London. This scene takes place in June, and the suit may be a bit warm for June in London.
The suit jacket has soft shoulders, a low button three roll two front and a single vent in the rear. This is Moore’s only button three suit in the Bond films where the lapels roll through the top button; the button three suits in For Your Eyes Only and Octopussy have lapels that roll above the top button. The single vent is an unusually sporty choice for a suit that Bond wears to the office, and all of Bond’s city suits since On Her Majesty’s Secret Service have all had the standard English double vents. The jacket has flapped pockets and three-button cuffs. The waistcoat has six buttons and the trousers have a flat front, straight leg and plain bottoms.
Bond’s shirt has a bengal stripe pattern in pink and white, with a contrasting white spread collar and contrasting white cuffs. The contrast collar was a symbol of power in the 1980s, though its origins are in the detachable collars and cuffs that are now relegated to daytime formal wear. The repp tie is bright scarlet, a colour that complements Roger Moore’s warm spring complexion very well. Bond’s shoes are Moore’s usual black slip-ons. Though he doesn’t wear it, Bond places a light brown trilby on the hat rack when he enters the office.