A Blue Striped Dressing Gown of Shirting

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Roger Moore may be known for his wide lapels, flared trousers and safari suits, but he also loved his dressing gowns and bathrobes. The dressing gown he wears in Octopussy in India is perfect for the hot weather. It’s made of cotton poplin shirting (the cloth a shirt is made from), which is lightweight, breathes well and feels great against the skin. Additionally, it takes up little space in baggage, so this is one of the few dressing gowns we see in the Bond series that most likely belongs to James Bond, as opposed to a hotel or villain hosting Bond. It’s one of James Bond’s most elegant dressing gowns, and it likely came from an English shirtmaker, though it probably isn’t bespoke. Many of the Jermyn Street shirtmakers make similar dressing gowns from their shirtings.

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Bond’s dressing gown is sky blue with red, grey and white stripes. The red and grey stripes are bordered by thin white stripes, whilst the white stripes are bordered by thin grey stripes. The gown has a shawl collar, turnback cuffs, one breast patch pocket on the left and hip patch pockets on either side. The waist secures with a wide belt. The collar, cuffs, pockets and belt are finished with royal blue piping for a luxurious look. The gown is calf-length.

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Kamal Khan’s Beige Herringbone Suit

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Louis Jourdan sadly died Saturday 14 February at the age of 93. Jourdan brilliantly played Octoussy‘s lead villain Kamal Khan, who is one of the most charismatic and stylish villains of the entire series. Previously this blog has written about Kamal Khan’s navy suit, peaked lapel dinner suit and grey tweed jacket. The only western outfit he wears that hasn’t been covered is a lightweight beige herringbone suit that is well-suited to India’s hot weather, at least visually. It is difficult to tell exactly what the material is, but it is likely silk blended with wool or cotton. Whatever the material is, Khan isn’t as comfortable in India’s heat as Octopussy and her girls are.

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The suit’s cut matches the cut of Jourdan’s other suits in Octopussy. The button two suit jacket has straight shoulders with roped sleeveheads, a clean chest and gentle waist suppression. It has typical continental details like jetted pockets and no vent. The lapels are a balanced width and have a steep gorge. This suit jacket also has three-button cuffs, unlike the single-button cuffs on Jourdan’s other jackets. The suit trousers are cut with a wide straight leg and most likely reverse pleats. The suit’s style matches 1980s trends, but those same trends also match classic 1940s style. This suit has the classic look of the 1940s but at the same time doesn’t look like a relic.

Louis Jourdan’s medium brown shirt is made by Frank Foster in lightweight cotton jersey, which makes this a casual shirt and not a formal shirt missing a tie. It has a spread collar worn open and two-button mitred cuffs, just like the cuffs Roger Moore wears on his shirts throughout For Your Eyes Only. The shirt has an open breast pocket with mitred corners that matches the cuff’s mitred corners. The back of the shirt is tapered with darts. The shirt’s placket is stitched close to the centre like on most of Foster’s shirts, but it is also stitched on the edge of the placket since knitted jersey cotton doesn’t keep a crisp crease. This shirt was sold at Prop Store on 16 October 2014 for £850. Jourdan’s shoes are medium-dark brown, probably slip-ons.

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Recuperating in Pencil Stripe Pyjamas

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At the end of Octopussy, James Bond is recuperating aboard Octopussy’s boat in India after sustaining injuries when jumping out of an aeroplane. Whilst recuperating, Bond is comfortably dressed in fine cotton pyjamas in white with a grey pencil stripe. The pyjama shirt has an open patch breast pocket on the left side and two larger patch pockets on either side of the lower front. It has a camp collar and a straight hem. The pyjama shirt’s wide, straight sleeves are three-quarter length with wide cuffs that are the same width as the sleeve. The buttons down the front are white translucent plastic. Unlike the straight pyjama shirt sleeves, the matching pyjama trousers have a tapered leg that is full in the thigh and narrow at the ankles.

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It’s too bad that these pyjamas are only briefly seen in Octopussy, since two-piece pyjama sets of a shirt and trousers are not something Bond often wears. We later see Bond wearing pyjama sets in Licence to Kill and in Die Another Day. Sylvia Trench wears one of Bond’s pyjama shirts at Bond’s flat in Dr. No. The literary James Bond preferred long pyjama coats instead of two-piece pyjama suits, as stated in Casino Royale and Diamonds Are Forever. Though two-piece pyjama suits aren’t the prescribed James Bond nightwear, they are classic and still appropriate for the character.

Kamal Khan’s Navy Suit

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Kamal Khan (Louis Jourdan) is introduced in Octopussy at Sotheby’s wearing an elegant navy suit. The suit is made by the same tailor who made the dinner suit and grey jacket that he wears later in the film. The suit jacket has straight shoulders with roped sleeveheads, a clean chest and gentle waist suppression. The suit jacket is made in a very minimalist style, with a single-button front, single-button cuffs, jetted pockets and no vent. The jacket’s slightly narrow notch lapels have a long, gentle roll to the single button. The suit trousers are cut with a wide leg and likely have pleats.

Kamal-Khan-Navy-Suit-3The white shirt is probably made by Roger Moore’s and the James Bond series’ shirtmaker Frank Foster, and it has a moderate spread collar, large rounded single-button cuffs and a front placket. The satin silk tie is solid navy in almost exactly the same colour as his suit. Khan ties it in a narrow four-in-hand knot in some shots (pictured above) and a square half-windsor knot in other shots (pictured below). Though I ordinarily prefer the four-in-hand knot, this tie looks better in the half-windsor knot because the tie’s interlining appears to be very lightweight. The elegant solid navy suit with a matching navy tie and white shirt recalls the clothes that Sean Connery and George Lazenby wore as James Bond in the 1960s. Khan also wears a white pocket handkerchief like Connery wore, though instead of folding it he puffs it with only a little peaking out of the breast pocket. Khan’s socks and shoes are black.

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Mischka’s Circus Outfit

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James Bond’s wardrobe in Octopussy is full of disguises, from the Colonel Toro uniform to the “Octopussy’s Circus” jacket to the gorilla suit to the clown suit. The disguise he spends the most time wearing in Octopussy is the outfit he takes from knife-throwing assassin Mischka (played by David Meyer) after he kills him. Like the clown suit, the outfit Bond takes from Mischka is also a circus costume. It would be quite a silly-looking outfit if it weren’t for the circus, but it’s tame compared to the clown suit.

Mischka-Circus-Uniform-2The main piece of the outfit is a crimson red polyester or nylon tunic that is long enough to almost cover the bum. It has a high collar that closes at the left side, and there is a roughly 9-inch placket that extends down the front of the shirt from the collar fastening to allow a head to fit through the collar. The sleeves are full cut, and the square single-button cuff is attached to the sleeve with shirring. A wide black belt with two rows of flat brass studs and a large two-prong brass buckle worn over the tunic around it gives shape to the outfit.

Mischka-Circus-Uniform-3Over the tunic, Bond wears an open black leather waistcoat that Mischka used to keep his knives. The open design provides easy access to the knives. Below the tunic, Bond wears his own navy straight-leg suit trousers from earlier rather than Mischka’s tighter black trousers worn inside tall black boots. Bond wears his own black slip-on shoes, though the stuntman who plays Bond on top of the train wears black side-zip boots.

The Infamous Clown Suit

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The clown suit in Octopussy is often considered the lowest point of Roger Moore’s James Bond wardrobe, but it proves to be an effective disguise until his original red costume is discovered. Since the clown suit is a disguise—complete with white makeup and a red nose—is it fair to remember Roger Moore as the James Bond who donned the clown suit? Would there be a better disguise for Bond at a circus? Earlier in Octopussy he hides inside a gorilla costume, which is even more absurd than wearing a clown suit. Whilst Roger Moore is known for being the most humourous of the Bonds, he gives one of his most serious performances of the series when he’s dressed for the circus.

Octopussy-Clown-Suit-2The clown suit is yellow with a windowpane of turquoise lengthwise stripes and black crosswise stripes. There is a red rectangle at the points where the stripes intersect. The suit’s pattern is printed, and the cloth is likely polyester. The button two jacket is cut like an oversized lounge suit jacket, though it is unstructured. It has notched lapels, open patch hip pockets, a welt breast pocket, a non-vented skirt and black buttons. The ultra-high-waisted trousers match the jacket and are held up by thick red braces.

Octopussy-Clown-Suit-3The clown costume includes a white wing-collar shirt that has two large black buttons on the front. The buttons have a jagged edge. The costume also has a giant red bow tie with black polka dots, and there is a matching pocket square stuffed into the jacket’s breast pocket. The clown hat is a bowler with a red ribbon and red edge trimming. A fake yellow flower is attached to the left side of the hat, and thick red hair is build into the hat. White gloves that button at the wrist and the oversized orange oxford shoes with white wing tips finish off the clown outfit.

The Cummerbund and Bond

The cummerbund in Skyfall

The cummerbund in Skyfall

Though the cummerbund is a well-known part of black tie, Bond has only worn a cummerbund on a handful of occasions. Traditionally, one isn’t wearing a cummerbund because he’s wearing a waistcoat or a double-breasted dinner jacket, but those situations do not make up the rest of Bond’s black tie outfits. Bond is well-known for omitting the waist-covering altogether, but Bond wears the seemingly pointless piece of silk around his waist a few times.

According to Black Tie Guide, the cummerbund originated from coloured sashes that British officers wrapped around their waist in India. Now cummerbunds ordinarily come in the form of a piece of pleated silk—with the pleats worn facing up—in the front that connects in the back with a strap and buckle. The purpose of the cummerbund is to act as a formal waist-covering that wears cooler than a waistcoat. It covers the bottom of the shirt front and the trousers’ waistband, so it serves an aesthetic purpose if not a practical one. Unlike how braces and belts aren’t worn together because they serve the same purpose, the cummerbund is not a belt and does not hold up the trousers. Thus, there is no rule about not wearing a cummerbund with braces. Braces can be worn with a cummerbund just the same as they can—and should—be worn under a waistcoat. Bond wears both a cummerbund and braces in Licence to Kill and Skyfall. Though belts and cummerbunds serve do different tasks, a belt should not be worn under a cummerbund since it will show as a bump underneath.

Diamonds-Cummerbund

A fancy, coloured silk cummerbund in Diamonds Are Forever

The cummerbund is traditionally black and matches the bow tie in both colour and texture, but it can be other colours. Burgundy is the most common choice for a coloured cummerbund, but the bow tie should always be black no matter the colour of the cummerbund. Coloured matching bow tie and cummerbund sets are often sold and can be worn for “creative black tie” functions and high school proms, but if you’re trying to follow the elegant example that Bond sets the bow tie should always be black. After all, it’s called “black tie”. The only time Ian Fleming mentions Bond wearing a cummerbund it’s a “wine-red cummerbund” that he wears with his white dinner jacket and dress trousers in the Thunderball novel. Since the bow tie isn’t mentioned, we can assume that Bond wears a proper black bow tie. The first time Bond wears a cummerbund in the films it’s a fancy silk in burgundy and black in Diamonds Are Forever. It’s a flashier 1970s take on the “wine-red cummerbund” that Fleming writes about, but the bow tie is still black. It’s the only time in the series that Sean Connery wears any sort of waist-covering with black tie.

Built-In-Cummerbund

The built-in cummerbund in For Your Eyes Only

In For Your Eyes Only, Bond wears trousers with a sort of waistband that acts like a cummerbund. The waistband is very wide, flat silk that extends across the entire front and fastens with two buttons at the right side. It’s a little narrower than a real cummerbund, but it’s a clever design and acts like a built-in cummerbund. The same type of built-in cummerbund returns in Octopussy. It may not be a proper cummerbund, but it’s a step in the right direction.

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A flat cummerbund in Licence to Kill

The first time Bond has a traditional black, pleated cummerbund is in Licence to Kill. It’s one of the few redeeming qualities of the black tie outfit in that film. But actually there are two cummerbunds used. The one Bond removes is flat silk and is used with the purpose to conceal rope. But later when Bond wakes up at Sanchez’s villa and sees his dinner suit neatly hung up, it’s the traditional cummerbund with pleats.

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The cummerbund briefly appearing in Quantum of Solace

When Bond wore his dinner suit without a cummerbund or waistcoat in Casino Royale, many people took note of it and started doing the same. Though Bond’s tradition of foregoing the waist-covering began from the start of the film series in Dr. No, it took 44 years for people to notice and make a big fuss over it. When Bond returned in Quantum of Solace two years later, the cummerbund returned. And Bond wore a cummerbund again in Skyfall despite the cummerbund not being very popular at the moment.

The cummerbund does not work well with the low-rise trousers that make up the majority of suit trousers today since the cummerbund should be worn up at the waist and not down at the hips. Some people say that the cummerbund should be used with such low-rise trousers to prevent the white of the shirt from showing between the jacket button and the top of the waistband, but that’s not a true solution for a poorly-designed suit. The cummerbund’s purpose is not to prevent that bit of shirt from showing. The jacket’s buttoning point and the trousers’ waistband in a well-fitting suit should not be very far from one another. The cummerbund should actually be mostly hidden under the jacket and only show just a little above and below the jacket’s button, if it shows at all.

Kamal Khan: Grey Tweed Jacket

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When Kamal Khan, played by Louis Jourdan, dresses in western clothing in Octopussy, the outfits are similar to outfits Bond wears. His dinner suit is just as classic and his navy suit is just as minimal. His tweed jacket in a broken twill weave of dark and light grey wool is equally simplistic, but it’s also not boring. There’s a continuity error, however, since there were at least two of these jackets used in filming. One of the jackets buttons one and the other buttons two. Other than this discrepancy, the jackets are the same. They have straight shoulders with roped sleeveheads, and they are cut with a clean chest and are shaped through the waist. The jackets have 1-button cuffs, no vent and jetted pockets with a ticket pocket. The jacket’s vent-less skirt signifies that this jacket is not for sporting use, and the straight jetted pockets follow the vent-less rear’s clean look and non-sporting purpose. The buttons are all black leather, something that sets this jacket apart from all of Bond’s jackets. Bond instead prefers slightly less rustic horn buttons for his jackets.

This sports coat buttons one.

This jacket buttons one.

Khan’s jacket sleeves are flamboyantly a little short to show off more shirt cuff. It’s usually recommended to show between 1/4″ and 1/2″ of shirt cuff when the arms are at rest, though, like Roger Moore’s character Lord Brett Sinclair in The Persuaders, Kamal Khan also shows too much shirt cuff. Shorter jacket sleeves visually shortens the arm length, and it’s possible that Louis Jourdan thinks his arms are too long. But over an inch of shirt cuff simply looks disruptive and like a mistake.

This sports coat buttons two. Notice its short sleeves.

This jacket buttons two. Notice its short sleeves.

Charcoal trousers complement and provide the necessary contrast to the lighter grey jacket. We can’t see if they have pleats or not, but they have a sharp crease. Khan’s light blue shirt has a spread collar and 2-button cuffs. The tie is navy with raised rectangles, woven in a checker pattern. Khan ties it in what is probably a half windsor knot. Overall, the outfit is timeless in both the colour palate and its proportions. The only thing that doesn’t fit in well today is the jacket’s vent-less skirt, but like everything else it comes in and out of fashion.

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