The Love Punch: A Double-Breasted Summer Sports Coat

Love-Punch-Double-Breasted-Jacket

In 2013, Pierce Brosnan starred in The Love Punch as a divorced man opposite Emma Thompson, who plays his ex-wife. They team up to seek revenge on a businessman who stole their pensions. The film opens with Brosnan at an outdoor summer wedding reception wearing a cool grey-green double-breasted sports coat with cream trousers and an open-neck shirt. Brosnan’s outfit has a sporty and casual look that a man of any age can wear, and it lends a youthful look to the 60-year-old Pierce Brosnan. Though his outfit is stylish, he’s dressed down more than the other men at the wedding, who are wearing summer suits and ties. Brosnan, however, is the only man who isn’t sweating.

Love-Punch-Double-Breasted-Jacket-2

Brosnan’s jacket is an unusual colour, but the cool, muted shade of green flatters Brosnan’s cool complexion, and green fits in with the outdoor surroundings. The cloth is woven in a hopsack weave, but the composition of the cloth is difficult to determine. It is likely a blend and could be made up of two or three fibres, including wool, linen, cotton or silk. The double-breasted jacket is the traditional button two, show three configuration, and Brosnan fastens both buttons. That is by all means allowed on a double-breasted jacket, but only fastening the top button would have better matched the casual way he wears this jacket.

The jacket certainly must be Italian in origin, and it’s probably an altered ready-to-wear piece. It has narrow, softly padded shoulders with gently roped sleeveheads and a short length, which is meant to resemble—but not entirely copy—a Neapolitan look. The jacket has flat-felled seams on the pack and sleeves and prominent pick stitching done by hand on the other seams and edges  to give it a casual look. Just because it’s double-breasted, that doesn’t mean it needs to be a formal jacket. The buttons contrast the jacket in beige corzo nut. The jacket is detailed with rounded open patch pockets, four buttons on the cuffs and double vents. There is a buttonhole in each peaked lapel.

Love-Punch-Double-Breasted-Jacket-3

Brosnan’s cream trousers are likely made of linen and have a flat front. His cream shirt is possibly a cotton and linen blend, and it has a cutaway collar, plain front and rounded button cuffs. Brosnan wears the collar and first button undone and spread open to keep cool. He wears a puffed cream linen or cotton handkerchief in his breast pocket.

There is much uncertainly in the article concerning what these clothes are made from. Brosnan’s clothes all look very neat and crisp, which is easy to accomplish when an actor is mostly standing still. Filmmaking wardrobe techniques can easily account for the absence of linen’s characteristic wrinkling. The jacket’s stitching makes it unlikely to be 100% wool, but its smooth drape means that it’s likely not all linen or cotton.

Love-Punch-Double-Breasted-Jacket-4

Navy Blazers: More Than Navy Suit Jackets with Metal Buttons

Dr-No-Blazer

What is or isn’t a blazer? By one definition, a blazer is a tailored jacket in navy—or less traditionally in other solid colours—with metal buttons. By another definition it’s a tailored jacket with thick, bright stripes, and it may or may not have metal buttons. Only the first type of blazer is relevant to James Bond. “Blazer” is neither another term for a tailored odd jacket nor a suit jacket, though the term has increasingly been used as such since traditional blazers have because less popular. Bond’s blazers are always blue, from the almost black Royal Navy uniform shade to a bright marine blue.

Single-breasted or double-breasted

Blazers can be either single-breasted or double-breasted. All of James Bond’s single-breasted blazers have two buttons and double vents. Sean Connery wears three similar single-breasted blazers in Dr. No, Thunderball and Diamonds Are Forever. Roger Moore wears two similar single-breasted blazers in The Spy Who Loved Me and Moonraker and another in single-breasted blazer in A View to a Kill.

Lazenby-Blazer

Bond’s double-breasted blazers all have six buttons. Some of Bond’s double-breasted blazers have two to button in the traditional configuration with the top row placed further apart. Other blazers have three to button like a naval reefer jacket, which makes the jacket look rather columnar and give it a higher buttoning point. However, this style looks appropriate for a naval commander. The double-breasted blazers all have double vents like the single-breasted blazers have. George Lazenby wears a double-breasted blazer in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Roger Moore wears double-breasted blazers in The Man with the Golden Gun, Moonraker and For Your Eyes Only and Pierce Brosnan wears a double-breasted blazer in GoldenEye, which has the last appearance of the blazer in the Bond series.

The cloth

Blazers can be made in a variety of different cloths. The most common cloth for a blazer is wool serge. Serge is worsted wool in an even twill weave with a 45° wale. Heavier serge with more defined twill wales looks better as a blazer. Serge is one of the most common materials for a suit, but in navy it can be a great choice for a jacket on it’s own. Serge blazers are the most formal type of blazers due to the cloth being the same as what is often used for a business suits and military uniforms. Plain-weave worsteds are not as good of a choice for a blazer. George Lazenby’s blazer in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Roger Moore’s blazer in For Your Eyes Only, and Pierce Brosnan’s blazer in GoldenEye are likely made of serge.

The-Spy-Who-Loved-Me-Navy-Blazer

Hopsack wool is a worsted commonly used for warm-weather blazers. Hopsack is a basketweave and is open and very breathable. Roger Moore’s double-breasted blazer in The Man with the Golden Gun and single-breasted blazers in The Spy Who Loved MeMoonraker and A View to a Kill are hopsack.

Doeskin makes for the ideal cool-weather blazer. It’s a densely napped flannel woolen with a sheen, not the skin from a deer. It is woven in an even twill weave like serge, but the weave is traditionally not visible through the nap. Sean Connery’s three blazers in Dr. No, Thunderball and Diamonds Are Forever appear to be doeskin, even though he wears two of them in tropical locales. Roger Moore’s double-breasted blazer in Moonraker also appears to be doeskin.

Diamonds-Are-Forever-Blazer

Other cloths can make excellent blazers. A soft, thick cashmere is excellent in cold weather whilst silk and linen are exceptional in warmer weather.

The buttons

Some follow the definition that a blazer must have metal buttons to be a blazer. Metal buttons reflect the maritime heritage of the garment. All of James Bond’s blazers have metal buttons, whether brass (polished or unpolished), polished nickel or gunmetal. Pewter buttons are a subtler alternative to brighter metals. At the moment, blazers with metal buttons are unfashionable. Some think they are for old men, some think they are for preps, and others think they are for security guards. The classic metal buttons have solid blank with a shank (metal loop) that sews onto the jacket. Crests should only be worn on the buttons if the crest has a personal significance. Naval motifs on the buttons are common, and Bond wears shanked buttons with such a motif in GoldenEye. Many of Bond’s shanked buttons are simply plain metal.

GoldenEye-Blazer-Buttons

In The Spy Who Loved Me and Moonraker, the buttons are metal (nickel on the single-breasted blazers and brass on the double-breasted blazer) with four holes, and the buttons are sewn on with a contrasting navy thread. These buttons have a more modern look than shanked buttons, but they keep the blazer tradition by sticking with metal. Enamel buttons in a metal case are another classic choice for a blazer, but Bond has not worn these.

I believe that buttons other than metal buttons can be used on navy jackets, though whether or not the jackets still qualify as “blazers” is debatable. These buttons need to be different from suit jacket buttons, so that excludes navy or black buttons in plastic or corozo. Horn buttons in any medium to light shades of brown work. Unpolished horn gives the jacket a less assuming look whilst polished horn whilst polished horn, particularly in light shades, can give a shiny gold effect closer to traditional blazer buttons. Smoke mother-of-pearl buttons are great on navy odd jackets and give a blazer look without the metal buttons. Smoke mother-of-pearl buttons are silvery, shiny and almost look like metal, but their variegation makes them more interesting. For lighter-weight jackets in hopsack or linen, blue or white mother-of-pearl buttons are an excellent choice as well, whilst darker horn buttons may look too heavy. For doeskin and cashmere jackets, wood buttons can give the jackets are more rustic look.

Whether or not a navy jacket with non-metal buttons is technically a “blazer”, it can still be a wonderful odd jacket. If the navy odd jacket were to return to the Bond series, this is the form I could see it returning in rather than as a traditional blazer.

The details

Blazers are cut and fit the same as suit jackets. Some people prefer a looser fit for their blazers, sometimes so they can wear a jumper underneath, but there’s no rule that says a blazer should but cut differently than a suit jacket should. All of James Bond’s blazers are structured, cut and fit exactly the same as the suit jackets he wears within the same films as the respective blazers. Most of James Bond’s blazers have details that make them more than ordinary suit jackets with metal buttons. The blazers in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Diamonds Are Forever and Moonraker have swelled edges for a sportier look. All of Bond’s blazers have double vents to follow British tradition, though blazers in the American have single vents. The double vents are key to wearing a blazer like Bond.

Bond wears a navy blazer on his date with Miss Taro

Bond wears a navy blazer on his date with Miss Taro

The pockets on Bond’s blazers are rarely ordinary straight, flapped pockets, though that is what the single-breasted blazer in A View to a Kill and the double-breasted blazers in For Your Eyes Only and GoldenEye have. All three of Sean Connery’s blazers have open patch pockets for not only the hip pockets but for the breast pocket as well. Patch pockets are the most casual type of jacket pocket and are never found on business suits. Roger Moore’s double-breasted blazer in Moonraker has patch pockets on the hips with flaps. The breast pocket on these blazers is an ordinary welt breast pocket since an open patch breast pocket wouldn’t match the flapped hip pockets, and a flapped patch breast pocket would look rather heavy on the chest.

Moore-Double-Breasted-Blazer-3

Many of Bond’s blazers have slanted “hacking” pockets, which are taken from the double-breasted military greatcoat rather than from the hacking jacket in the case of the blazer. Some of Bond’s blazers with slanted pockets also have ticket pockets.

When and where to wear a blazer

The navy blazer has proven to be one of the most versatile garments. In some parts of America, blazers are appropriate business dress, but they are essentially a type of sports coat and are best worn socially. Bond mostly wears his blazers socially, and he only wears a blazer to the office in Thunderball because he’s hurrying in from the country. Blazers are the most formal of all sports coats due to being a solid, dark colour. A blazer isn’t all that far off from being a navy suit jacket, which is what allows it to be worn in dressier settings. Like a navy suit, the navy blazer is great both during the day and in the evening.

For-Your-Eyes-Only-Blazer

Blazers have a maritime heritage and are always appropriate by the water. Bond wears blazers on tropical islands in Dr. No and Thunderball, aboard the RMS Queen Elizabeth sunken in Victoria Harbour in The Man with the Golden Gun, and in the Mediterranean in The Spy Who Loved Me, For Your Eyes Only and GoldenEye.

Blazers do not need to be worn near water. For social occasions in the city they don’t stick out too much amongst the suits. In the country they’re perfect for drinks at the country club.

What to wear with a blazer

James Bond has worn many different colours in his trouser with his blazers. The trousers worn with a blazer need to contrast the blazer to avoid looking like a mismatched suit, and thus navy, black and charcoal trousers do not pair well. Sean Connery pairs his blazers with dark grey trousers—a shade lighter than charcoal—to dress up the outfit as much as he can. The less contrast there is between the jacket and trousers the more formal the outfit is.

James Bond has worn medium grey, light grey, tan, beige, stone (light taupe) and white trousers with his blazers. Any shade of grey is a great choice for the city or a dressier look, particularly in the evening. Tan, beige and stone give the blazer a sportier and more casual look, and these colours are best worn in the daytime. White trousers, give the blazer a nautical look and should only be worn with a blazer on the water, where Bond wears his blazer with white trousers in The Man with the Golden Gun and The Spy Who Loved Me. Even when worn by the water, white trousers with a blazer can come off a costume-like. Cream and British tan are other great choices to wear that Bond has not worn with his blazers.

Navy hopsack blazer with beige cavalry twill trousers in Moonraker

Navy hopsack blazer with beige cavalry twill trousers in Moonraker

The trousers Bond wears with his blazers are always wool, in woolen flannel for greys and cavalry twill or gabardine for earth tones and white. Tropical and fresco wool, silk, linen and cotton gabardine are other great trouser materials to pair with a blazer, particularly hopsack and lighter serge blazers. Cotton chinos are acceptable with a hopsack blazer, but they should be pressed.

The options for shirts are ties to wear with a navy blazer are limitless. Bond usually wears similar shirts and ties that he would wear with a navy suit. Bond occasionally wears his blazers without a tie for a more casual look. The colour of the shoes should complement the trousers. Oxfords can dress up the outfit whilst slip-ons can dress down the outfit. The many different items that can be worn with a navy blazer to dress it up or down contribute to the incredible versatility of the garment.

Remington Steele: Checked Jacket with Throat Latch and Elbow Patches

Remington-Steele-Checked-Jacket

In the fifth episode of Remington Steele, titled “Thou Shalt Not Steele”, Pierce Brosnan wears a sporty checked tweed jacket with a jumper and knitted tie. Brosnan also wears this jacket in five subsequent episodes. The jacket is black and cream, most likely in a two-and-two check. A two-and-two check alternates two light yarns (cream in this jacket) and two dark yarns (black in this jacket) in both the warp and the weft of an even twill weave, and it’s the section of a Glen Urquhart check opposite the houndstooth (four-and-four) section. All else equal, a two-and-two check would be half the size of a houndstooth check, and its shape is simpler and boxier. It is possible that the check on Brosnan’s jacket may have more than just these two colours, but I believe that this is essentially what the check is.

Two-and-Two

A black and cream two-and-two check

The jacket is typical of the early 1980s and has a low—but not excessively low—gorge (lapel notch) and two buttons on the front in a low stance. The shoulders are strong, but narrow, with a pagoda shape and a lot of padding. The jacket has a lean chest and a suppressed waist, which gives this jacket a very elegant shape. When combined with the pagoda shoulders, the jacket’s silhouette endows Brosnan with a more powerful, but not unnatural, look.

This jacket has a number of sporty details. One of the most unusual and sportiest is the throat latch, which is also known as a storm tab. It allows the collar to be closed across the front of the neck when turned up. They’re often in the form of a separate piece of fabric that buttons onto the back of the collar and sticks out from the left side of the collar. The throat latch on this jacket is a permanent feature, and it’s in the form of a grey cord loop that extends from the left side of the collar.

Remington-Steele-Checked-Jacket-3

Sporty leather buttons and elbow patches trim this jacket. The buttons are braided leather in black to match the black in the jacket as well as provide contrast with the jacket’s overall colour. The elbow patches are grey-brown suede so they blend in with the jacket. The jacket’s hip pockets are open patch pockets and the breast pocket is a welt pocket. There are three buttons on the cuffs and double vents at the rear.

Brosnan leaves his jacket open. Either it’s too fitted to be able to button with a jumper underneath or Brosnan simply wants to show off his jumper. The fancy striped wool jumper is grey and cream to complement the jacket, but being grey instead of black gives some contrast with the jacket. It has a deep V-neck to show off the tie. The trousers are charcoal—either lightweight flannel or a medium-weight worsted—and have a flat front and straight legs.

Remington-Steele-Checked-Jacket-2

Under the jumper, Brosnan wears a pale blue poplin shirt with a point collar, narrow placket and rounded double cuffs. The point collar is worn with a gold collar bar of the slide-on variety. Some people feel that a slide-on or clip-on collar bar is to clip-on braces as a collar pin is to a button-on braces. They feel that a slide-on collar bar is a cheap approximation of a proper collar pin. However, Brosnan’s slide-on collar bar gets the job done—it pops the tie out from the collar—without damaging the shirt. True collar pins do indeed damage collars when they poke holes through the cloth, and after repeated use the damage is noticeable. A slide-on collar bar is good for beginners who aren’t sure if they want to commit to the damage a proper collar pin inflicts on the shirt. Brosnan, however, is not a beginner and should be using a proper collar pin.

Brosnan wears the double cuffs with the cuffs extended—not folded—and fastened like single-link cuffs, but it works because the cuffs are very short for double cuffs. There is an unused set of link-holes close to the base of the cuff. The sleeve length is likely meant for a man with shorter arms to accommodate the cuff folding in half, which would end up being less than two inches wide. The cuff unfolded as Brosnan wears it is approximately 3 1/2 inches wide.

Remington-Steele-Blue-Shirt-Grey-Knitted-TIe

I’ve said before that jumpers and kissing cuffs (when the ends of the cuff meet back-to-back rather than overlapping) don’t pair well together. The snug cuffs on the jumper don’t match the shape of the shirt’s cuffs, and the jumper’s cuffs are stretched out by the shirt’s cuffs. Here the shirt’s cuffs extend past the jumper’s to show the cufflinks, and the jumper’s cuffs are usually obscured under the jacket sleeves. Though wearing a jumper with kissing shirt cuffs isn’t ideal, this is a creative way to pair a jumper with such shirt cuffs. A sleeveless jumper would have been better for this outfit.

The tie is grey knitted silk and tied in, surprisingly, a full windsor knot. Brosnan knots his tie in a scene in this episode. He ties the tie with the wide blade much longer than the narrow blade, which allows him to tuck the wide blade into his trousers for a neat look under the jumper. Tying the tie further up means that the tie will be narrower in the knot area and will create a smaller knot. The small windsor knot on Brosnan’s tie has a very clean look, which can be difficult to achieve with a four-in-hand knot on a knitted tie. Brosnan finishes the outfit with a puffed silver satin silk pocket square that complements the greys in the outfit whist contrasting them in texture.

Preferably, the belt and shoes should match the jacket’s black leather buttons. However, matching all leathers is not required and Brosnan decides to pair this informal outfit, not inappropriately, with brown shoes and a brown belt. A black belt and black shoes may have been a better choice, especially since Brosnan wears this outfit in the evening, but the brown belt and shoes dress down the outfit.

Remington-Steele-Blue-Shirt-Jumper

“Thou Shalt Not Steele” is the first episode of Remington Steele to feature Pierce Brosnan’s then-wife Cassandra Harris, who played Countess Lisl von Schlaf opposite Roger Moore in For Your Eyes Only a year earlier .

A Blue Russian Atomic Energy Agency Uniform

World-Is-Not-Enough-Russian-Uniform

To infiltrate a Russian ICBM base in Kazakhstan in The World Is Not Enough, Bond poses as Russian nuclear scientist Mikhail Arkov. As a representative of the Russian Atomic Energy Agency, Bond wears a blue uniform with their logo on it. The logo comes in the forms of a small patch on the left breast pocket and a large patch on the back of a grey circle with a red star and red Greek letters alpha, sigma and delta with a grey triangle at the bottom pointing down.

World-Is-Not-Enough-Russian-Uniform-Logo

The uniform is made up of matching jacket and trousers in heavy medium blue cotton. The jacket has a zip-front with a fly that fastens down with six hidden poppers. The front of the jacket has four patch pockets with pointed flaps that secure with hidden poppers. The waist cinches with a drawstring to give the oversized jacket some shape. Low armholes contribute to the jacket looking oversized. The collar stands up and can secure across the throat with a Velcroed strap. The cuffs have wide Velcro straps to tighten the sleeves around the wrist. Shoulder straps, silver reflective bands around the forearms and silver reflective strips on the upper arms detail the jacket.

World-Is-Not-Enough-Russian-Uniform-3

The uniform trousers buckle at the waist. They have a flat front and a large cargo pocket matching the jacket’s pocket style on each leg. The bottom of each leg is finished with two silver reflective bands.

An example of the entire uniform and a separate jacket sold a Bonhams in Knightsbridge on 16 June 2009. The uniform sold for £2,400 whilst a separate lot of only the jacket sold for £2,640. According to the auction, the jacket and trousers of the uniform were both made by costumiers Angels & Bermans especially for Pierce Brosnan.

World-Is-Not-Enough-Russian-Uniform-2

Under the uniform, Bond wears his white dress shirt from Turnbull & Asser that he was previously wearing with his midnight blue dinner suit. The shirt has a marcella spread collar, marcella double cuffs and a marcella bib front. The collar and cuffs have 1/4-inch stitching. The shirt has a plain front without a separate placket. The shirt is worn with mother of pearl studs and round cufflinks in gold and mother of pearl.

Bond wears black patent leather boots with this outfit. The boots have lug lacing and black rubber lug soles from Vibram.

World-Is-Not-Enough-Russian-Uniform-Boots

The Thomas Crown Affair: Date Night in a Midnight Blue Suit

Thomas-Crown-Affair-Midnight-Blue-Suit

Pierce Brosnan wears a large variety of suits from Milanese tailor Gianni Campagna as Thomas Crown in his 1999 film The Thomas Crown Affair. The Campagna suits cost $3,400 each at the time, and they are made of Super 150s wool. For a date with insurance investigator Catherine Banning (Rene Russo) at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and Cipriani, Crown wears a midnight blue suit. Midnight blue is ordinarily reserved for dinner suits, but the ultra dark shade of blue is also the perfect colour for a suit worn for a less formal evening out.

Thomas-Crown-Affair-Midnight-Blue-Suit-2

The suit jacket buttons three, and the lapels roll gently over the top button. It is cut with a clean chest and has straight shoulders with roped sleeveheads. The jacket has double vents, straight pockets with flaps and four buttons on the cuffs. When Banning is cold at the museum, Crown gentlemanly removes his jacket and places it over her shoulders. The suit trousers are belted and have double reverse pleats and tapered legs.

Thomas-Crown-Affair-Midnight-Blue-Suit-3

Crown’s french blue poplin shirt from Turnbull & Asser has a spread collar, double cuffs with the link holes close to the fold, a narrow front placket and shoulder pleats in back. The shirt has gauntlet buttons on the sleeves, which means that if it is a ready to wear shirt it is made of Sea Island cotton since those are the only shirts Turnbull & Asser adorns with gauntlet buttons. The royal blue silk tie—likely in a satin weave—is a bit darker than the shirt. In the late 1990s it was fashionable to wear ties that were close to or matching the colour of the shirt, but there is a good amount of contrast in this outfit for a tasteful shirt and tie combination. Crown ties the tie in a four-in-hand knot with a dimple. With the suit, Crown wears black oxfords and a black belt.

Thomas-Crown-Affair-Midnight-Blue-Suit-4

Woven Tie Patterns

Skyfall-Blue-Tie

Sean Connery, George Lazenby and Timothy Dalton wear mostly solid ties in their James Bond films, and Roger Moore wears solid, striped and printed ties in his James Bond films. Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig (until Spectre) have mostly eschewed the ties that their predecessors wore for ties with woven patterns. These often intricate patterns are woven on a Jacquard loom. When the pattern is woven, the colours will be more vivid and more defined than on printed ties. Though most striped ties are also woven with different coloured yarns rather than printed, this article will be focusing on other types of patterns than stripes.

Octopussy-Dotted-Tie

The first tie Bond wears that has a non-striped woven pattern is a navy tie with small white polka dots, He wears this tie with his navy double-breasted suit in Octopussy. Dots, from polka dots to pin dots, can be found both printed on and woven in ties, but woven dots are more vivid and defined.

A-View-to-a-Kill-Grey-Tweed-Jacket-2

The plaid tie Roger Moore wears with his grey tweed jacket in A View to a Kill also has a woven pattern, but it’s woven just as any ordinary plaid for a jacket or shirt would be woven in an ordinary even twill weave. Though stripes and checks on ties appear diagonally, they are not woven into the cloth diagonally. Ties are cut on the bias (diagonally) so they hang straight and don’t curl in either direction, hence why patterns on ties are usually diagonal. If the ribs on a tie are horizontal or vertical, it usually means the tie is woven in a twill weave.

Tomorrow-Never-Dies-Blue-and-Bronze-Tie

Starting with GoldenEye, Bond has almost exclusively worn ties with woven patterns. In Pierce Brosnan’s Bond films the woven patterns vary from small to large. They range from small neat patterns and dots, to large chevrons and geometric patterns. The small neat patterns include the blue and bronze Turnbull & Asser tie that Bond wears with his vicuna-coloured overcoat and navy birdseye three-piece suit in Tomorrow Never Dies, the Herbie Frogg tie that Bond wears in the pipeline in The World Is Not Enough and the blue and yellow squares Turnbull & Asser tie that Bond wears on the plane with his navy birdseye suit in Die Another Day.

Some of Pierce Brosnan’s geometric ties include the black and gold tie in GoldenEye, the black tie with red, silver and gold lines and squares in The World Is Not Enough and the grey tie with blue circles in Die Another Day. The last two ties are from Turnbull & Asser. Though the weaving of these large patterns is very impressive, these are the furthest ties Bond has worn from the solid black knitted ties of his literary origins or the solid grenadine ties of his cinematic origins.

The-World-Is-Not-Enough-Geometric-Tie

Daniel Craig’s James Bond continues on from Brosnan’s by wearing mostly ties with woven patterns. Craig’s Bond, however, has preferred more discrete neat patterns, usually woven in two or three colours. His ties often have a basket weave appearance, but the patterns are created on a Jacquard loom with floated yarns that only mimic a basket weave. We see this basket weave look on the navy and white tie with the charcoal blue checked suit in Casino Royale, on the navy and white tie with the midnight blue suit in Quantum of Solace and on the navy and grey tie with the navy herringbone suit at the end of Skyfall.

Casino-Royale-Blue-and-White-Macclesfield-Tie

Many of the other ties that Daniel Craig’s Bond wears have other square patterns that look more complex than a basket weave. Craig’s other ties in his first three Bond films that don’t have a pattern of squares are the blue and white honeycomb tie with the three-piece navy pinstripe suit at the end of Casino Royale, the aubergine and black tie with white pin dots with the charcoal suit in Quantum of Solace, the oval-patterned tie at the end of Quantum of Solace and the two grenadine-esque ties in Skyfall. The ties in Quantum of Solace and Skyfall are made by Tom Ford.

Daniel Craig grey suit with grey rope stripes in Skyfall

What Kind of Underwear Would Bond Wear?

Turnbull-Asser-Sea-Island-Boxer-Shorts

Sea island cotton boxer shorts from Turnbull & Asser, likely what Ian Fleming had in mind for James Bond, and maybe what he wore himself

We see James Bond in swimming trunks, pyjamas and dressing gowns, but we never see James Bond in his underwear in the films. There’s a slight peak of it in Casino Royale, but we can’t tell what kind it is. Bond most likely has varied his underwear styles throughout the decades. Ian Fleming specified “nylon underclothes” in the novel Diamonds Are Forever, which have great drying properties. In The Man with the Golden Gun novel, Fleming wrote about a different, more luxurious type of underwear:

Bond then took off his clothes, put his gun and holster under a pillow, rang for the valet, and had his suit taken away to be pressed. By the time he had taken a hot shower followed by an ice-cold one and pulled on a fresh pair of sea island cotton underpants, the bourbon had arrived.”

The “sea island cotton underpants” are undoubtedly referring to the woven boxer short style, since old-fashioned men in Britain at the time wore little else. The cotton material would be similar or identical to Bond’s sea island cotton shirts that Fleming specified. Some shirtmakers make boxer shorts to match their customers’ shirts. Sean Connery and Roger Moore most likely also wear woven boxer shorts as Bond, considering that was traditionally what men wore in Britain. Roger Moore can be seen in cotton boxer shorts in the 1969 film Crossplot, which took its wardrobe from Moore’s television show The Saint. Connery’s and Moore’s trousers have enough fullness in the thighs to accommodate boxer shorts.

Sean Connery wearing cream boxer shorts and a white vest in Never Say Never Again

Sean Connery wearing cream boxer shorts and a white vest in Never Say Never Again

In the unofficial James Bond film Never Say Never Again, Sean Connery wears cream boxer shorts with a white vest (also known as an A-shirt). Bond had just discarded his dinner suit to escape on a bicycle, so he must have been wearing these clothes under his dinner suit. The British ordinarily aren’t fond of undershirts, and Bond almost never wears them. To blend in as an American in Fleming’s novel Live and Let Die, Bond wears “nylon vests and pants (called T-shirts and shorts)”. However, the “nylon underclothes” that Fleming writes about in Diamonds Are Forever may also include vests.

Sunspel Stretch Trunk

Stretch trunk underwear from Sunspel

Underwear is a very personal garment and there’s no way we can guess the different styles of underwear that Bond has worn throughout the series apart from following what the trends were at any given time. Trends in underwear sometimes followed trends in trousers. Boxer shorts were very popular in the 1980s and 1990s when full-cut trousers were popular. However, in a 1985 episodes of Remington Steele titled “Forged Steele”, Pierce Brosnan wears white knitted cotton briefs.

Remington-Steele-Briefs

The James Bond Dossier announced last month that Sunpel, who made some of Daniel Craig’s polos and t-shirts for Casino Royale, has provided their stretch cotton brief and their stretch cotton low waist trunk (a short boxer brief) for Daniel Craig to wear in Spectre. This underwear is made of a 92% cotton and 8% elastane blend so it has more stretch than a pure cotton knit. Neither the brief nor the trunk has a front opening. Briefs and trunks are necessary for Daniel Craig since loose boxer shorts would bunch up under his tight trouser legs and prevent the trousers from hanging smoothly over the thighs.

What kind of underwear do you think Bond would wear?

Stretch brief underwear from Sunspel

Stretch brief underwear from Sunspel

Noble House: A Cream Silk Suit for Leisure

Noble-House-Pierce-Brosnan-Cream-Silk-Suit

Only a year after he finished Remington Steele, Pierce Brosnan played Hong Kong tycoon Ian Dunross in the 1988 television miniseries Noble House. Besides Brosnan, Noble House stars two other actors from the James Bond series, John Rhys-Davies (The Living Daylights) and Burt Kwouk (Goldfinger and You Only Live Twice). Brosnan plays and dresses as Dunross similarly to how he plays and dresses as Steele, though Dunross’ clothes are devoid of the 1980s fashions that dominated his later Steele wardrobe and would plague James Bond in Licence to Kill a year later. For leisure in Hong Kong, Brosnan wears a cream silk suit in Noble House.

Noble-House-Pierce-Brosnan-Cream-Silk-Suit-2

The cream suit jacket has three buttons and a different cut than the other suit jackets in Noble House and has a more relaxed look to go with the suit’s more relaxed nature. The shoulders are soft and natural but have a little padding. The shape of the lapels and other small details are identical to on the other suits in the mini-series, meaning this suit is either made by the same tailor or is from the same brand. The other suits are most likely meant to look like they are made by an English-influenced Hong Kong tailor, though this cream suit looks more American.

Noble-House-Pierce-Brosnan-Cream-Silk-Suit-4

The back of the jacket is gently shaped but perfectly fitted

The suit jacket lacks front darts in the American Ivy League style, thus the front looks boxy. The chest is very lean and the waist is full. The back of the jacket, however, is suppressed to give the jacket a clean and flattering shape. The traditional American Ivy League style has three buttons with the lapels rolled to the middle button—called a three-roll-two—so that the jacket looks like a button two jacket. This jacket, however, is not made in that style. The lapels on this button three suit jacket only roll gently through the top button and are not pressed all the way down to the middle button, but the lapels roll slightly past the top button when the jacket is button. The jacket is detailed with flapped pockets, three buttons on the cuffs and a single vent.

Noble-House-Pierce-Brosnan-Cream-Silk-Suit-5

The suit’s trousers have a medium rise and double reverse pleats, which are stitched down about an inch at the top to direct the fullness to the hips and keep the pleats neat. Though pleats are not part of the Ivy League style like the undarted suit jacket is, the popularity of pleated trousers in the late 1980s means that they accompany this suit jacket. The trousers have on-seam side pockets and one rear pocket on the right. The legs are gently tapered with plain hems. The trousers are worn with a medium brown belt.

Noble-House-Pierce-Brosnan-Cream-Silk-Suit-3

Brosnan’s blue multi-stripe shirt is classic, but it is also what was popular in the 1980s. The cotton is medium blue, possibly end-on-end, with navy, yellow and light blue pencil stripes, spaced about 3/8″ apart. The shirt has a point collar, double cuffs and a front placket. The collar, cuffs and placket have 1/4″ stitching. Brosnan’s tie is red with dark blue repp stripes bordered by olive repp stripes. The striped tie pairs well with the striped shirt because the stripes are of different scales and different intensities. The tie’s stripes are in the American directions—down from the right shoulder to the left hip. If the stripes have any meaning in the UK, the American direction negates the meaning of the pattern. As there is no keeper, each blade of the tie hangs freely. When the tie flips up in the wind, a Polo Ralph Lauren label can be seen under the tie. It is possibly that other piece of clothing that Pierce Brosnan wears in Noble House could also be from Polo.

Brosnan matches a dark blue patterned silk pocket square to the dark blue stripes in the tie and in the shirt. Brosnan also matches his red socks to the base colour of his tie. The shoes are medium brown suede derbys.

Noble-House-Pierce-Brosnan-Cream-Silk-Suit-6

Notice the “POLO by Ralph Lauren” label on the back of the tie