The Final Spectre Trailer: Blue Sharkskin Suit and Light Brown Jacket


In the final Spectre trailer we get a look at two tailored outfits we haven’t seen much of before. The first is a blue sharkskin suit—woven in dark blue and light blue yarns—that we got a glimpse of in the full-length trailer. We also saw this outfit on a few of the final posters for Spectre. The final trailer features some great shots of this suit, and it’s the same as the other Tom Ford O’Connor suits in Spectre. The button three roll two suit jacket has straight shoulders with roped sleeveheads, a close fit and a short length. It is detailed with a single vent, slightly slanted flap pockets and four cuff buttons (with the last button worn open). The suit trousers have a flat front, narrow straight legs with turn-ups, and wide extended waistband with side adjusters,

With this suit, Bond wears a white shirt with a point collar and double cuffs. He matches the shirt with a folded white handkerchief in his breast pocket. The solid dark navy tie matches the darker yarns in the suit, and Bond ties it in a four-in-hand knot. Bond wears black, Dainite studded rubber-soled derby shoes with this suit with this suit, and they’re the Norwich model from Crockett & Jones.

Of all the looks that Daniel Craig wears in Spectre, this is the most classic Bond suit, and its elegant simplicity will prove to make this a memorable outfit. The navy two-piece suit with a navy tie recalls combinations that Sean Connery wears in From Russia with Love, Goldfinger and You Only Live Twice. The white shirt recalls the navy herringbone flannel suit that Connery wears in Goldfinger, as well as the literary Bond’s usual outfit.


The other outfit from Spectre that we get a new look at is light brown jacket with tan trousers that Daniel Craig wears in Morocco, which has been previously shown in a publicity still. The jacket and trousers are so close in colour that they look like a mismatched suit, but the jacket is darker and has more texture than the trousers have. Neither item is likely from Tom Ford. The light brown button three jacket is likely made of linen or a linen blend, and it is cut with soft shoulders and a close, short fit. Its fishmouth lapels have conspicuous pick stitching. The jacket also has slanted pockets and four cuff buttons with all fastened, if the jacket has working cuffs.

The flat front fawn-coloured trousers, which appear to be slightly lighter and smoother than the jacket, are likely a chino or drill cotton. What tells us that they are most likely not suit trousers is that they aren’t pressed with a crease and look much more casual. They have narrow—and probably tapered—legs. Craig wears them with a brown leather braided belt that has a solid end with holes. They may be the same trousers that Craig also wears with a navy Tom Ford polo and a tan suede jacket from Matchless.

My assessment that this is not a suit could be wrong, but if this is indeed a pairing of separate jacket and trousers, it would be James Bond’s first odd jacket since the navy double-breasted blazer in GoldenEye.

The white shirt may be from Tom Ford. The collar looks like it might be wider than the others in the film, which are point collars, but it is also a bit askew so it’s difficult accurately to assess the shape. The collar could be the same point collar that Daniel Craig wears on his shirts with all the other O’Connor suits in Spectre. This shirt may have cocktail cuffs. The tie is copper brown knitted silk with a pointed wide end and a straight narrow end, which suggests it is from Tom Ford. Though most knitted ties have straight ends, Tom Ford and a some others sell similar ties. This outfit unusually lacks a pocket square. The sunglasses are the Tom Ford Henry model.

Seeing Bond in light brown again makes us recall Roger Moore, and this outfit is similar to but more casual and relaxed than any of the brown suits or tan sports coats that Moore wears in his Bond films. Let us not forget the tan suit that Timothy Dalton wears in The Living Daylights, also worn in Morocco like this brown outfit in Spectre. Dalton dresses his suit down by forgoing the tie, but even though Craig wears a tie with this outfit it still has the same casual demeanour.

Due to only having a brief shot of this brown outfit in the trailer and only one still, the observations on this outfit may not be entirely accurate and are highly subject to change.

Basted for Bond: Examining Daniel Craig’s Tom Ford Clothes, Part 1

This week’s “Basted for Bond” infographic looks at the Tom Ford suits and coats that Daniel Craig wears in Quantum of Solace and Skyfall. This infographic details the differences between the “Regency” suit jacket from Quantum of Solace and the “O’Connor” suit jacket. Breakdowns of the navy overcoat and black greatcoat from Quantum of Solace and the navy topcoat from Skyfall are also included. A graphic for the Spectre clothes will come separately after the film is released.


Rittenhouse Costume Cards


As many of you may know, Rittenhouse has sold “costume cards” of actual wardrobe clippings from the James Bond series. These include not only cards of James Bond’s clothes but of other characters as well, such as M, Mathis, Solange, Patrice, Silva and others. Most of these have been from clothes featured in Daniel Craig’s Bond films, but there have been cards from clothes throughout the series, including a piece of Sean Connery’s dinner suit in Dr. No. Many costume cards can be found on eBay, though the cards of Bond’s tie swatches are some of the most in-demand.

I own nine costume cards, including:

  1. The navy linen suit and blue end-on-end shirt from the black-and-white bathroom fight in Casino Royale.
  2. The grey linen Brioni suit and white self-stripe shirt from the Bahamas arrival in Casino Royale.
  3. The black Alfani shirt and mink Ted Baker trousers from the Bahamas poker scene in Casino Royale.
  4. The light blue poplin Brioni shirt worn with the navy track stripe suit from the final scene in Casino Royale.
  5. The pale blue Tom Ford shirt and navy pinstripe Tom Ford suit (with dirty trousers) from the opening scene of Quantum of Solace.
  6. The brown mohair tonic Tom Ford suit from the Bolivia arrival in Quantum of Solace.
  7. The black Tom Ford polo shirt and off-white Levi’s jeans from Quantum of Solace.
  8. The white Tom Ford shirt and midnight blue Tom Ford suit worn in Bolivia in Quantum of Solace.
  9. The light blue and charcoal grenadine-like tie worn with the charcoal rope stripe suit in Skyfall.

Which do you own?

Woven Tie Patterns


Sean Connery, George Lazenby and Timothy Dalton wear mostly solid ties in their James Bond films, and Roger Moore wears solid, striped and printed ties in his James Bond films. Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig (until Spectre) have mostly eschewed the ties that their predecessors wore for ties with woven patterns. These often intricate patterns are woven on a Jacquard loom. When the pattern is woven, the colours will be more vivid and more defined than on printed ties. Though most striped ties are also woven with different coloured yarns rather than printed, this article will be focusing on other types of patterns than stripes.


The first tie Bond wears that has a non-striped woven pattern is a navy tie with small white polka dots, He wears this tie with his navy double-breasted suit in Octopussy. Dots, from polka dots to pin dots, can be found both printed on and woven in ties, but woven dots are more vivid and defined.


The plaid tie Roger Moore wears with his grey tweed jacket in A View to a Kill also has a woven pattern, but it’s woven just as any ordinary plaid for a jacket or shirt would be woven in an ordinary even twill weave. Though stripes and checks on ties appear diagonally, they are not woven into the cloth diagonally. Ties are cut on the bias (diagonally) so they hang straight and don’t curl in either direction, hence why patterns on ties are usually diagonal. If the ribs on a tie are horizontal or vertical, it usually means the tie is woven in a twill weave.


Starting with GoldenEye, Bond has almost exclusively worn ties with woven patterns. In Pierce Brosnan’s Bond films the woven patterns vary from small to large. They range from small neat patterns and dots, to large chevrons and geometric patterns. The small neat patterns include the blue and bronze Turnbull & Asser tie that Bond wears with his vicuna-coloured overcoat and navy birdseye three-piece suit in Tomorrow Never Dies, the Herbie Frogg tie that Bond wears in the pipeline in The World Is Not Enough and the blue and yellow squares Turnbull & Asser tie that Bond wears on the plane with his navy birdseye suit in Die Another Day.

Some of Pierce Brosnan’s geometric ties include the black and gold tie in GoldenEye, the black tie with red, silver and gold lines and squares in The World Is Not Enough and the grey tie with blue circles in Die Another Day. The last two ties are from Turnbull & Asser. Though the weaving of these large patterns is very impressive, these are the furthest ties Bond has worn from the solid black knitted ties of his literary origins or the solid grenadine ties of his cinematic origins.


Daniel Craig’s James Bond continues on from Brosnan’s by wearing mostly ties with woven patterns. Craig’s Bond, however, has preferred more discrete neat patterns, usually woven in two or three colours. His ties often have a basket weave appearance, but the patterns are created on a Jacquard loom with floated yarns that only mimic a basket weave. We see this basket weave look on the navy and white tie with the charcoal blue checked suit in Casino Royale, on the navy and white tie with the midnight blue suit in Quantum of Solace and on the navy and grey tie with the navy herringbone suit at the end of Skyfall.


Many of the other ties that Daniel Craig’s Bond wears have other square patterns that look more complex than a basket weave. Craig’s other ties in his first three Bond films that don’t have a pattern of squares are the blue and white honeycomb tie with the three-piece navy pinstripe suit at the end of Casino Royale, the aubergine and black tie with white pin dots with the charcoal suit in Quantum of Solace, the oval-patterned tie at the end of Quantum of Solace and the two grenadine-esque ties in Skyfall. The ties in Quantum of Solace and Skyfall are made by Tom Ford.

Daniel Craig grey suit with grey rope stripes in Skyfall

Daniel Craig Dresses Up For Heineken


Yesterday, published three photos of Daniel Craig taken for a partnership between James Bond and Heineken. Though this partnership with the beer company involves Spectre, Daniel Craig is not in costume as James Bond, though he is dressed in a Bond-like manner. Though GQ identifies this navy pick-and-pick suit as a Tom Ford O’Connor suit, this is certainly not a Tom Ford Suit. This suit isn’t as interesting or unique as a Tom Ford suit, and it’s most likely a ready-to-wear suit, but Daniel Craig looks like James Bond in it.

Tom Ford suit jackets always have a curved “barchetta” breast pocket, which this suit jacket lacks. O’Connor suit jackets also have slanted hip pockets, whilst this jacket has straight pockets. The O’Connor jackets in Spectre are button three roll two, whilst this jacket is just a button two like the ready-to-wear O’Connor jackets. The Spectre suit jackets also have four cuff buttons whiles this jacket has only three cuff buttons. The buttons on this navy suit contrast in medium-light grey urea. And whilst Daniel Craig’s O’Connor jackets always have a single vent, this jacket has double vents. The narrow lapels are around the same width as the O’Connor lapels, but the notch on this jacket is smaller.

Craig’s suit jacket is cut with straight padded shoulders, gently roped sleeveheads, a lean chest and a suppressed waist. Overall, the suit has a very close fit, but it has a slightly cleaner fit than the Tom Ford suits he wears in Spectre. Because of his pose, it’s difficult to tell if the pulling at the waist is a result of the jacket being a little too tight, or if it’s because of the pose. The only serious problem with the fit of this jacket is the short length, which is fashionably on purpose. The suit trousers have a narrow, tapered leg with turn-ups, which contrast with the straight leg on Tom Ford trousers.

Under the suit, Daniel Craig wears a white shirt with a point collar and double cuffs. Though Craig wears similarly styled shirts made by Tom Ford in Spectre, this shirt is not one of those shirts. This shirt’s point collar is a bit shorter than the Tom Ford point collars and does not frame his face as well, but it doesn’t look bad either. The navy tie with white pin dots could possibly be from Tom Ford, but any number of brands could have provided this tie. There’s a folded white handkerchief in the jacket’s breast pocket to add to the Bond look. Craig’s shoes are black three-eyelet derbys with a chiselled toe and Dainite studded rubber soles. The shoes are likely the Crockett & Jones Highbury, which Craig wears in Skyfall.

GQ is also wrong about something other than the suit: Daniel Craig’s hair in Spectre. The longer hair in these photos gives Daniel Craig a more mature and sophisticated look, but if they looked at the Spectre trailer they would see that Craig’s hair in the film is the usual shorter length it has been in his other Bond films.

There are more photos

The Spectre Trailer: Tom Ford Suits and Coats

A longer Spectre trailer was released yesterday and revealed official footage of many of the suits and coats that James Bond wears in the film. Spectre has the most varied selection of tailored clothing of the Bond series we’ve seen since Roger Moore was Bond. The clothes it features are designed by both the film’s costume designer Jany Temime and by Tom Ford. Though there are still problems with the fit, the styles of the clothes respect the history of Bond’s exquisite wardrobes over the years. Here is an overview of the tailored clothes in the film.

Blue Prince of Wales Suit with a Blue Windowpane


This lightweight wool suit is the Tom Ford O’Connor cut, with a few updates from the suits in Skyfall. The O’Connor suit jacket, which is designed by Jany Temime, has three buttons with the narrow lapels rolled to the middle button. It has a single vent, four cuff buttons and slightly slanted hip pockets with flaps. The jacket is cut with straight shoulders and roped sleeveheads. The trousers have a flat front, slide-buckle side-adjusters, a waistband extension with a hook closure and a straight leg with turn-ups. The jacket fits tightly, but it’s not quite as tight as the suit jackets in Skyfall. The sleeves look less constricting. Unfortunately, it’s still too short and doesn’t fully-cover Daniel Craig’s buttocks. The trousers are again too tight and a little too short.

Bond wears his blue Prince of Wales check suit with a white shirt from Tom Ford. The shirt has a point collar and double cuffs. Bond’s tie is solid medium blue and tied in a four-in-hand knot. The shoes are black Crockett & Jones Norwich five-eyelet derby shoes with Dainite studded rubber soles.

Grey Herringbone Track Stripe Suit and Three-Quarter Coat


This wool, silk and mohair suit is also made in Tom Ford’s O’Connor cut, detailed exactly the same as the blue Prince of Wales check suit. This suit is worn with two different shirts and ties. The first (below) is a white Tom Ford shirt with a point collar and double cuffs. The tie is solid medium grey and tied in a four-in-hand knot. The second shirt (above) is sky blue, made in the same style as the white shirt. With this shirt, Bond wears a solid navy tie, tied in a four-in-hand knot. Bond also wears black Crockett & Jones Norwich derby shoes with Dainite rubber soles with this suit.


Over this suit, Bond wears a navy cashmere and silk herringbone three-quarter topcoat with a three buttons hidden under a fly front, a moleskin collar, flapped pockets, a rear vent and three cuff buttons. This kind of coat is often known as the “Crombie” coat, named for the brand who made this style popular. It’s like a chesterfield but shorter.

Blue Sharkskin Suit


Not much is seen of this wool sharkskin suit, but it appears to be the same style as the other O’Connor suits that we see more of. Bond wears it with a solid navy tie and a white shirt with a point collar. It has either double cuffs or cocktail cuffs. Bond wears black Crockett & Jones Norwich derby shoes with Dainite rubber soles with this suit.

Black Herringbone Three-Piece Suit and Bridge Coat


The black herringbone wool three-piece suit is different than the other suits in Spectre, made in Tom Ford’s Windsor cut. The Windsor is one of Tom Ford’s most popular designs. The jacket buttons two and has medium-wide peaked lapels and pagoda shoulders with roped sleeveheads. The jacket is detailed with straight pockets with flaps, a ticket pocket, a single vent and five cuff buttons. The Windsor jacket is slightly longer than the O’Connor jacket. The waistcoat has six buttons with five to button and four welt pockets. The trousers are similar to the O’Connor suit’s trousers but have a slightly fuller leg and no turn-ups. With this suit Bond wears a white shirt from Tom Ford that has a pinned eyelet collar and single-button cocktail cuffs. The tie is black with a subtle texture. Bond wears black Crockett & Jones Camberley double-monk boots with Dainite rubber soles with this suit.


Over the suit, Bond wears a knee-length double-breasted bridge coat made in black brushed wool. It has eight buttons on the front with four to button, an ulster collar, slash pockets, a button-on half belt in the back, a rear vent and three cuff buttons.

Ivory Dinner Jacket


The new Spectre trailer reveals James Bond’s first ivory dinner jacket since A View to a Kill, released 30 years ago. Not much can be seen of this ivory silk and viscose blend faille dinner jacket, but it is made in the Windsor style and has medium-wide peaked lapels. The wide peaked lapels make this dinner jacket most closely resemble Sean Connery’s ivory dinner jacket in Diamonds Are Forever. Bond wears a black cummerbund, and most likely black trousers, under the dinner jacket. The white dress shirt is from Tom Ford with a spread collar, double cuffs and a pleated front. The black diamond-point bow tie that Bond previously wears in Dr. No and Quantum of Solace returns. Compared to the bow tie in Quantum of Solace, this bow tie is pointier. Bond also wears a red boutonnière in his lapel, paying homage to Goldfinger. The muted colours of the trailer make the flower look darker and duller than it likely is in reality.

The images here have been partially colour-corrected to look more true to the actual colours of the clothes. The trailer’s colours are often muted and have a very warm cast. After Spectre is released, this blog with have more thorough reviews of all the clothing in the film.

Basted for Bond: Examining Daniel Craig’s Brioni Clothes

Daniel Craig wears Brioni suits in only one James Bond film: Casino Royale. The latest “Basted for Bond” infographic features Craig’s Brioni clothes, updated from Pierce Brosnan’s. Though Craig’s Brioni suit jackets still have the same strong Roman shoulders that Brosnan’s suits have, Craig’s jackets have a closer fit through the body. The trousers, on the other hand, have a fuller cut through the leg. The jackets’ button stance is higher than normal like on Brosnan’s jackets in Die Another Day, but the gorge (the seam where the lapels are stitched to the collar) is now also higher. The higher button stance and higher gorge followed the fashion trends of the day, but it wouldn’t be until a few years later that mainstream fashion would raise the jacket’s hem as well. Variations presented in this infographic include the peaked lapel suit jacket and the dinner jacket and trousers.


Is the Casino Royale Three-Piece Suit a Copy of the Goldfinger Suit?


I don’t know who started this, but the following quote ended up in Casino Royale‘s trivia section on IMDB: “The three-piece suit worn by James Bond at the end of the film is a navy version of the gray suit worn by Sean Connery in Goldfinger.” Others have repeated this.

Like the iconic grey glen check suit made by Anthony Sinclair that Sean Connery wears in Goldfinger, the Brioni navy pinstripe suit that Daniel Craig wears in the final scene of Casino Royale is also a three-piece suit. And that’s where the similarities end. Both suits are excellent suits, but the basic styles of the suit are different, the silhouettes are different and the small details that make the Goldfinger suit so unique are absent from the Casino Royale suit.

The Goldfinger suit jacket has two buttons on the front whilst the Casino Royale suit jacket has three buttons. The Goldfinger suit jacket is cut with soft shoulders and a full chest whilst the Casino Royale suit jacket is cut with stronger straight shoulders and a lean chest. The Goldfinger suit jacket has a ticket pocket whilst the Casino Royale suit jacket does not. The Casino Royale jacket has wider lapels. Both jackets have straight pockets with flaps and four buttons on the cuffs, and the Casino Royale jacket may also have double vents like the Goldfinger suit, but those details aren’t all that special since that’s what the average suit has.


The waistcoat in Goldfinger has six buttons with only five to button, whilst the waistcoat in Casino Royale is cut with all buttons able to fasten. The waistcoat in Goldfinger has four welt pockets whilst the waistcoat in Casino Royale has only two. The trousers in Goldfinger have double forward pleats, plain hems andside adjusters whilst the trousers in Casino Royale have darts and turn-ups and are worn with a belt. The Goldfinger suit’s trouser legs are narrow and tapered whilst the Casino Royale suit’s trouser legs are wide and straight.

What makes the glen check suit in Goldfinger special? Apart from it being the first three-piece suit of the Bond series, it’s Sean Connery’s only three-piece suit that has lapels on the waistcoat. Pierce Brosnan brought back the lapelled waistcoat with his pinstripe suit in The World Is Not Enough. This key detail, however, is absent from the three-piece suit in Casino Royale. The absence of lapels on the waistcoat is the most significant detail that shows the Casino Royale suit was hardly inspired by the Goldfinger suit.

Magnoli Clothiers, who makes clothes inspired by the clothes James Bond wears, also says the Casino Royale suit “was based loosely on Sean Connery’s classic Goldfinger Suit.” Magnoli adds a ticket pocket and side adjusters to his version of the suit to make it resemble Connery’s suit more, but those details are not present on the actual Casino Royale suit.


Even when people attempt to truly copy the grey three-piece Goldfinger suit, they get it wrong. An attempt at copying the Goldfinger suit was done in Catch Me if You Can, but the suit in that film was made in the wrong pattern, and the style was either Americanised or modernised with squarer shoulders, wider lapels, shorter vents and medium-rise flat front trousers. At least they got two of the Goldfinger suit’s key details: a ticket pocket and lapels on the waistcoat.

James Bond has so far worn 20 three-piece suits in the series, with more coming in Spectre, and the three-piece suit in Casino Royale is no more a copy of the Goldfinger suit than it is of most of the other 18 three-piece suits. Costume designer Lindy Hemming may have wanted to put James Bond in a three-piece suit that could be iconic on the level of the Goldfinger suit, but the significance of the suit doesn’t mean the actual suits have much in common. The Goldfinger suit is iconic because it is not only a very unusual suit, but it also has a significant reveal with James Bond exiting the aeroplane lavatory. The reveal of the Casino Royale suit comes along with the introduction of a more confident and mature 007, and the suit has significance in the character development.

If Daniel Craig’s navy pinstripe three-piece suit could be compared to another suit in the Bond series, it has most in common with George Lazenby’s three-piece navy chalkstripe suit in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Though the Italian cut of Craig’s Brioni suit is considerably different from Lazenby’s thoroughly British Dimi Major suit, the details and overall styles are very similar. The most obvious thing is that both suits are navy with stripes. Both suit jackets button three down the front, and neither jacket has a ticket pocket. Both suits’ trousers have a darted front and a straight leg, though Lazenby’s trouser legs are considerably narrower than Craig’s trouser legs. Sean Connery’s navy three-piece suit in Diamonds Are Forever also has a few things in common with the Casino Royale suit, such as the lack of a ticket pocket, a full six-button waistcoat and darted-front trousers, though Connery’s jacket only has two buttons and his trouser legs are tapered.

To give a definitive answer to the question posed in the title of this article, no, the Casino Royale three-piece suit is by no means a copy of the Goldfinger suit. If someone was trying to copy any suit from Goldfinger, they did a very poor job. That doesn’t mean there is something wrong with the Casino Royale suit, it is just a very different three-piece suit.