Blue Dinner Suit in Macau

Skyfall Dinner Suit

You don’t need to have seen Skyfall to have gotten a good look at the Skyfall dinner suit. Daniel Craig has already worn his dark navy Tom Ford O’Connor dinner suit in plenty of other appearances, such as the Olympic opening ceremony and in a pre-taped sketch for Saturday Night Live. On all the posters the dinner suit looks like a bright navy. It doesn’t look nearly so bright in the film, even in the daylight scenes, and it’s in the range of classic midnight blue. In the casino’s yellow lighting it looks blacker than black does under that lighting, which comes out looking brown. The cloth has a bit of a sheen that suggests mohair.

Skyfall Dinner Suit

The dinner jacket is very closely fitted and just a bit too short, providing the fashionable “iconic for 2012″ look that costume designer Jany Temime aimed for, as she mentioned to the Associated Press. The shoulders are straight and narrow with roped sleeveheads. It’s a traditional button one with a shawl collar, faced in black satin silk. Also in black satin silk are the buttons and pocket jettings. The dinner jacket has three buttons on the cuffs and a single vent, a first for Bond on a dinner jacket. I’m not sure the reason why a single vent was chosen; it’s too sporty for semi-formal wear and it’s really only something Americans do. It’s the only non-traditional detail in the outfit. The trousers have a traditional fit with a long rise and tapered legs, as opposed to the tight-fitting, low-rise trousers on the regular lounge suits in the film. The trousers have plain hems.

Skyfall Dinner Suit

The Tom Ford dress shirt is cotton voile with a pique bib, collar and cuffs. The shirt has a spread collar, double cuffs and a plain front that closes with shanked mother of pearl buttons that look like studs. The cufflinks match the studs. Craig wears a black grosgrain—with the ribs lengthwise, and it clashes with the satin trimmings on the dinner jacket—bow tie in a batwing shape, a black satin cummerbund and a folded white linen handkerchief in his breast pocket. The trousers are held up with white moire braces, though the trousers have side adjusters as well. The shoes are black calf plain-toe wholecuts, the Crockett & Jones Alex. One example of this suit was sold at Christie’s on 5 October 2012 for £46,850 as part of “FIfty Years of James Bond: The Auction.” The dinner suit up for auction was labelled size 48F (equal to a US/UK 38R), even though it was bespoke.

Skyfall Dinner Suit

74 thoughts on “Blue Dinner Suit in Macau

  1. Usually filmmakers play with light, shadows, framing a scene, etc. to give you subtle messages, but I think Skyfall tells a subtle story with the symbolism in the clothes. One theme in the movie is “doing things the old way” and how there is a need for the old and new in the modern world (e.g., field vs. electronic espionage)

    The easiest symbol is the shirt collars. Bond is the only character that wears tabbed collars that hide his mostly conservative (single color) ties. The rest of the characters wear spread collars that “proudly” show off their larger tie knots. Currently, spread collars are generally more accepted as “fashionable” whereas the tabbed collars are not as accepted… they might be a bit old-fashioned since they were more popular like 40 years ago. Bond embodies the old ways and hence his shirt collar reflects that.

    As for hiding the tie, your tie says something about your personality as well as the way you tie your knots. Bond is hiding his personality… perhaps symbolized by hiding his tie knot. My friend that I watched the film immediately remarked, “Why the hell is his tie so hidden in that damn shirt?” The tabbed collar also emphasizes this, the collar is so large/stiff/protective — just like he is protecting who is in on the inside from the outside.

    An interesting contrast happens when he has to dress in a tuxedo and infiltrate the Macau casino. What kind of shirt does he wear? Not the most traditional tuxedo shirt (which was what I was expecting), but one with a spread collar — just like everyone else was wearing! A subtle symbol of Bond changing his focus — he needs to “act” a bit and infiltrate rather than being himself (the tabbed collar).

    There is probably much much more symbolism in the clothes, but I would need to wait for the DVD/Blu-ray to really study that.

    • What do you mean by the tie being hidden in the shirt? The tab collar pushes the tie out to emphasize it.

      Bond was wearing a very traditional tuxedo shirt. The spread collar has been the standard collar for black tie in Britain since the 1940s.

    • Thanks for your criticism. It’s great to have constructive feedback that offers only negative feedback.

      Anyways, regarding the ties, I mean the knots. You see less of the tie knot with a tabbed collar. Two people with the same tie will tie the same knot differently — the tie knot often shows your personality (how tightly you tie the same knot for example).

      As for the tuxedo shirts, the more important symbolism that I thought is the switch to a spread collar. I personally thought the winged collar was more traditional, but maybe I’m wrong.

      And again this is only my opinion.

    • Well-dressed men, like Bond, typically tie a tighter knot because it looks neater and sticks out from the collar better. But Bond’s knot isn’t overly tight. A loose knot, on the other hand, show’s carelessness.

      Bond never wore a wing collar with black tie, always a spread.

    • Clearly we are on the internet at the same time. Thanks for your quick comments and reply regarding the tuxedo collar.

      My point is the symbolism. Why is Bond dressed differently from his countrymen? It’s a conscious decision by the filmmakers. Are they subtle clues that they are dropping to reinforce the themes of the films?

      Matt, you have written in great detail on what the outfits of composed out of, but even you ask, “why did this do this? why a single vent?” for the tuxedo. I’m pretty sure people are wondering, “why the tabbed collar?” Especially when previous films didn’t feature the tabbed collar (at least I don’t recall, maybe you know better)

      Maybe I’m just commenting in a direction that is out of scope for this blog. And if so, I apologize.

    • Your comments are well within the scope of this blog and much appreciated. But there are other meanings to the clothes that you aren’t considering. The tab collar’s purpose is to frame the knot, not to conceal it. That’s why the collar has tie space and curves around the knot. If the intention was to conceal it, they could have gone with a narrow point collar with no tie space, like what was trendy in the early 90s.

      There could be many reasons for the single vent. The single vent is most associated with American suits. Skyfall puts a greater emphasis on Bond being British than any other Bond film has, so I find it unlikely that the single vent would be used to set Bond apart from everyone else in a purposely non-British way. I suspect that Jany Temime chose a single vent because she thinks it works best for the shape of Daniel Craig’s behind.

      But you haven’t touched on the the aspect of the clothes that could possibly have the most meaning: the too short, too tight tailoring. Do you think that was just done to follow current fashion trends (as Temime has indicated) or is there other meaning to that?

    • I suppose the wing collar could be called more traditional for Black tie, but it’s also considered old fashioned and non-standard in the present day. (and for more than fifty or so years. ) I recall reading in a Debretts (British) publication, about twenty years ago that the wing collar was ‘incorrect’ for Black tie and suitable for White tie only. Incorrect might be going a bit far in my view, but it does firmly show that it’s no longer the expected standard.

    • It’s true that many in Britain consider the wing collar to be only appropriate for white tie. If one is going to wear a wing collar shirt with black tie it needs to be a proper stiff detachable collar, with a marcella-front tunic shirt and studs. It should also be worn with a proper waistcoat, 3 or 4-button in black to match the dinner suit or white marcella cotton like white tie. One must follow the 1920’s traditions if going for a wing collar with black tie. Anything else would look like some of the awful things certain Americans like to wear. It’s not the type of costume that fit’s James Bond.

    • Matt, I think you are absolutely right that the tightness of the cut, chopping of the jackets, and the single vent were to flatter Daniel Craig’s figure and follow current fashion trends. There are no story elements there.

      I think the video log you posted earlier on had an interview with Temime saying that explicitly. At least whatever they did allowed him to move easily in the suits.

      I personally think it he looked good in the film and the pulling/bunching of the sleeves, etc. are really only apparent in still images. But my own aesthetics lean modern and I don’t think it that kind of fit (just like the shorter jackets) would look good on everyone.

    • I disagree that the tight, short suits are flattering. He look far better in the more Quantum of Solace suits, though those shoulders were too pronounced for him.

  2. One more thing about single vent suits. A law enforcement friend told me that in his personal experience, it was easier to hide a gun behind his back in his waistband with a single vent. The gun butt works its way out with double vents.

    Hence, Bond is always (I think) in a single vent suit jacket.

    • The single vent/double vent suit only applies to waistband carry, so I think you are right about the shoulder holster aspect.

      Again, it could be symbolism to make Bond stand out from the rest of his countrymen.

  3. I can’t believe that Craig would fit into a 38R suit – he was built like a professional wrestler in the last two films.

    • He /doesn’t/ fit into a 38R, as we can clearly see. That’s the impetus of the fit problems right there. They should have sized up. And whoever did the fitting needs to be fired.

    • 38R seems way off. I would have pegged Craig as around a 42R in the previous movies–but its always had to judge on-screen.

    • I don’t think he’s a 42, but probably a 40. Without the muscles he’d be a 38. But I find that the suits he’s wearing in Skyfall make him look smaller and shorter. He’s the smallest man in the movie and his suits only emphasize that. The suits in Quantum really built him up.

    • Really? I thought sure he was bigger than that in CR. He looked HUGE in that movie.

    • I agree – Bond shouldn’t be gigantic (that’s reserved for the henchmen) but he should be tall. Poor, maligned George lazenby had the right combination of height and athleticism without looking bulky or overmuscled.

  4. Matt, you didn’t mention the braces Bond wore (they seem to be Thurstons like in Casino Royale). I also saw in the sales catalog, thanks to your article, that Bond wore Tom Ford cufflinks with his initials. That seems terribly not Bondian, but whatever… Do you think he wore these cufflinks with his dinner jacket only, or with every lounge or dinner suit ? Thanks.

    • Thanks for reminding me about the braces. I haven’t seen any offical mention of them being from Thurston, though even if they are from another brand it’s likely that Thurston still made them. I haven’t paid much attention to the cufflinks.

    • You are welcome. By the way, I often wondered how you could say that the handkerchief (of this outfit or any other one) was made of linen. I am just curious ; after all, linen and cotton are rather similar onscreen, and they are no zooms on it or things like that !

  5. I thought the trousers were still quite fitted, based on how his thighs appeared when he was sitting in the chair. And are you sure they’re not cuffed?

    • These trousers looked a little better than the suit trousers. In the book Bond on Set: Filming Skyfall there are some clear shots of the trousers.

  6. So other than the center-verses-side vents, what are the differences between this dinner suit and the one from QoS? I recall the QoS seemed to fit a lot better (surprising given that it was borrowed), but was also a Tom Ford, correct?

    Also, I agree I’ve seen Craig wear this jacket on other occasions, but I noticed from the London premier photos it appears that he wore black dinner trousers with the same (or lighter blue?) jacket. I haven’t seen the film yet, but such combination would seem out of character for Bond (although I very much like Craig’s look at the premier, other than the poor fitting jacket).

    • The dinner suit in Quantum also had satin gauntlet cuffs and trouser turn-ups (the only bad thing about it). That one was also Tom Ford, but it did fit much better.

      The dinner jacket at the premier was a large silver and blue nailhead pattern. Very unconventional in cloth and fit. But that’s something Bond, I hope, would never wear.

    • Matt, where did you see that the trousers were cuffed ? Because you don’t mention it in your article about the QOS dinner suit -and the only image of the trousers concerned shows plain hems, I think.

  7. could u review the gray suit from the beggining of the movie? its the only outfit in the whole movie that i liked, in spite of the extremely tight and short fitting.

    • THis movie had really teribble suits as compared to the likes Of Quantum , A young fashionable chap will not be caught dead in one of these suits, even though it is Branded Ford’s

  8. To be honest, I hadn’t spotted the dinner jacket had a single vent. Surprising, given the otherwise traditional nature of his black tie outfit. I noticed that some of Bond’s other suits in Skyfall were also single vented: I presume you are right that the costumers thought it flattered Craig better.

    Overall, I rather liked the dinner jacket. I liked the colour (even if a touch off midnight blue) and thought it fitted better than the other suits. Whilst on the tight side, it didn’t seem to pull and ruck as awkwardly as some of the other suits Craig wore in the movie. I wonder if that is partly due to heavier or better cloth being employed?

    Interesting to see the Daniel Craig’s Bond appears to wear a cummerbund now – perhaps a Tom Ford touch that is to be commended?

  9. The fit of this dinner suit is really bad. In the casino scene it is clearly visible that the jacket stands out from Craig’s neck, a clear indication that it is to tight in the chest.

    The only redeeming part of Craig’s suits in this movie are the shoes! C&J are great. I’ve worn the Alex with my dinner suit for years.

    S

  10. i thought this was Bond’s moment when he shined! the best dinner suit in my opinion….actually i take that back, i liked QoS dinner suit a little better but i liked this bc of the midnight blue being visible. also the new fit is actually growing on me, not so much the shortness in the jacket but the way it fits, i think craigs suits fit him just fine once i saw the movie and how he moved in them. and i know for some scenes that they used bigger sized suits for the more rigorous stunts but craig looked like he was comfortable in them which it was is important when wearing a suit…comfort-ability.

    • But this suit has basic fit issues, such as the collar sticking out from the neck, and that is a deal breaker for me.

      S

  11. Matt, what about the bow tie? Is it a slimline bow tie? I want to get something similar for my upcoming wedding, but I can’t seem to find anything like it.

  12. I tend to agree with Matt on the above discussion with Fmann, especially regarding the tab collar. Which I suspect we will start seeing a lot more of given its prominence on Bond in this film. I also second that Bonds braces were Thurston, they looked to be the same moire ones he wore in CR.

    On another note, and sorry to break topic. Matt, thoughts on covering Ralph Fiennes’s suits? I thought he was rather well dressed. And any idea where his braces were from in his first meeting with M? The look to be Thurston’s Fleur De Lys but in a navy with gold hardware and not white with silver hardware. It also looks like there is writing on the hardware, which Thurston never does (thankfully). Turnbull & Asser sometimes does this, however. Would be grateful for any insight.

    -Justin

    • I have white moire braces from Turnbull & Asser that are just about identical to the Thurston. And a number of other English retailers have the same. I agree that Ralph Fiennes was very well dressed and I will be sure to write about some of his clothes. But for that I’ll think we’ll have to wait for the Blu-ray.

    • I agree David, it was nice to see a well-tailored Englishman in the new Bond film, even if it wasn’t our hero! Without giving anything away, I am very enthusiastic about what Fiennes brought to Skyfall.

      It seems a little odd to me, seeing as the running theme of the film is “sometimes the old ways are best” that they would choose to dress Craig in this fashion, which is neither the old way nor the best way.

    • I did some research into it, I believe Fiennes’ are these from Ede & Ravenscroft. However, I don’t remember if his had black leather ends or other. I would put money on the fact that these are made by Thurston. They dont do any engraving on their own braces, (as you note, thankfully) but they do on some they make for other places, like E&R. And most of the British retailers who offer braces have theirs made by Thurston, Paul Stuart has some made from them as well. I spoke with some of the shop keepers on Jermyn st last year and it was quite funny, one of them said that they have no idea what Thurston will send them, they just get whatever they get.

      http://shop.edeandravenscroft.co.uk/products/dark-blue-fleur-de-lys-braces

      Thanks for responding Matt.

      -Justin

    • I don’t know who made his clothes, but they are very nice. It’s classic English style, very appropriate for the character. It’s like an updated version of Roger Moore’s 80’s style in the office scenes.

    • Glad you agree Matt. I’m collating ideas for what I’d like from my first made suit, and I have to say I much prefer the tailoring of Mallory’s suits to Bond’s (though I do like the tab collar).

      I’m 27, and in the England. Would this style suit a younger chap?

    • A classic, well-fitting suit is appropriate at any age. There’s nothing overly fancy or old-fashioned about his suits that would make it hard for a younger man to wear.

    • The only thing I notice in that publicity shot is that there’s a noticeable gap between the waistcoat and trousers. Makes me think he’s wearing a belt, which is a big no-no with three piece suits — a belt buckle, strap, or shadow tends to break up the continuous line of fabric. Braces or side tabs allow the waistcoat to lie flat against the trouser waistband, which is surely a much better look. However, points must be awarded to the costumer (apart from the fitting of Daniel Craig’s suits) for having the trousers sit at his natural waist, something you don’t often see these days with flat front trousers.

    • Fiennes does not wear a belt with his trousers in Skyfall, he wears braces, as can be seen in a scene where he has his jacket of. The suits look excellent and I am suspecting they are SR.

      S

    • Perhaps (somehow I fell I am going to get lynched) it is Tom Ford too. I just mention it because of the pagoda shoulders of Fiennes’ suits (perhaps I am plain wrong about them, of course), and the QOS Tom Ford suits also had one. But Tom Ford may not be the only brand offering pagoda shoulders suits, even if it’s not very common today.

    • It looks like it could be just poorly-fitting trousers. On Pierce Brosnan’s three-piece suits the belt made it look much worse than that.

  13. It is really depressing to see that the trend of showing a well-dressed man (well, perhaps not so well-dressed in that particular movie) in evening clothes with the bowtie undone and the shirt (sometimes half) unbutonned to the audience (and with sunglasses… ok, I stop) is still so strong. Like if it was an example, and it sure is not. After that, how can you criticize young people with unbutonned shirt collars and ties, if even Bond shows us the bad example (I know I exaggerate a little, but remenber the chase in Sienna in QOS !) ? Things like that wouldn’t have happened in the Connery era. This trend must have started with the Brosnan era (of course, neither Brosnan or Craig are to blame for that, they just really can’t do a thing about it). Even if Casino Royale is one of the best Bond movies ever to me, I was shocked when I saw Bond at the poker table without his dinner jacket, while every others players were properly dressed. I hope the next Bond movie won’t be an occasion for the costume designer to show us Bond with a tie, a half butonned shirt, and no suit jacket…

    Anyway, Matt, I was wondering about the rise of these dinner trousers. Is it a medium rise, like the Brioni evening trousers in Casino Royale, and thus not a high rise like Connery’s trousers ? Thanks a lot.

    • The dinner suit in Skyfall is worn pretty much the same was as in Moonraker. In the evening at the casino he stays properly dressed. The next day he doesn’t put the bow tie back on and just wears the basic shirt, jacket and trousers from the outfit, since he brought nothing else to wear. I think it would have been odd if he had kept the bow tie on. And he doesn’t wear his suits without a tie at all in Skyfall. The tab collar forces Bond to keep the tie on, which is one benefit to the choice of style. He can’t remove the tie like in Quantum of Solace or the collar tabs would stick out. Now that wouldn’t look too sharp.

      The rise is about a medium rise (high by today’s standards), well-suited for Craig’s build. The rise is about 11-12 inches, which sits at his waist and splits his body at the perfect place. It’s hard comparing the trousers to Connery’s because they have different body shapes as well as a 4″ height difference.

    • Thanks for moderating a little my reaction, Matt. I had forgotten that a tuxedo was meant to be worn in the evening only, and wear it in the morning/afternoon with just a shirt and pants is rather correct if it’s the only item you have. But that does not justify Bond leaving his bowtie and unbutonning his shirt a little in Casino Royale, just after his win (and with a lady too !), as we are in the middle of the night, so the perfect moment to wear a tuxedo !!
      By the way, you were refering to Moonraker. Didn’t you meant For Your Eyes only ?

    • I’m with you on Casino Royale. Bond shouldn’t have undressed in public.
      I was thinking of the double-breasted dinner suit in Moonraker, when he has just has the tie removed the next morning. In For Your Eyes Only he’s just wearing the shirt, trousers and button-on cummerbund.

  14. I just want to add, even though this dinner suit is controversial (I would have liked it better if it wasn’t pulling in places and had double vents or none), I really like the lively discussion here. :)

  15. I have never been to your site before but read about it from the NYT. I LOVED the Skyfall wardrobe and Daniel Craig’s suits. I think that Jany Temime did a FABULOUS job. Right after I saw the movie, I commented on Daniel Craig’s suits. I thought he looked fabulous. The suits helped set a tone in the movie and certainly added an air of modern sophistication. I know I should embrace different points of view…but I was disappointed that the NYT focused on your critique of the wardrobe only because I thought the wardrobe was so perfect. I thought that the wardrobe women did an impeccable job. During the movie I even commented on how beautiful his pique tuxedo shirt looked. I do love that you have an entire blog about the suits that James Bond wears though – it is fantastic. Great idea!

    Coco

  16. How much would that midnight blue tux jacket from Tom Ford cost? Better yet, how much would the one he wore to the london premier of Skyfall cost in real life, from, say Neiman Marcus?

    • Not sure if you saw this, I think I didn’t reply directly to you:

      “I don’t know, but Tom Ford costs in the the thousands and that’s just for RTW. Best to save up for bespoke in that case. Better fit and you get to choose all your details (like not getting a single vent).”

  17. I don’t know, but Tom Ford costs in the the thousands and that’s just for RTW. Best to save up for bespoke in that case. Better fit and you get to choose all your details (like not getting a single vent).

  18. There’s no way im going through 66 previous comments, but you mentioned Bond’s Cufflinks match the shirts buttons? So he’s wearing stud Cufflinks then? Or are they mother of pearl links?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


six − 4 =

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>