Winter Clothes in Shanghai: The Navy Pea Coat

Skyfall-Peacoat

James Bond wears a navy pea coat for the second time in the series in Skyfall, after first wearing a pea coat in the opening scene of Casino Royale. It’s surprising that Bond never wore a pea coat before Daniel Craig took over since it’s a natural choice of casual coats for a naval man. The pea coat has six buttons on the front but Bond only fastens the middle button, it would appear because the coat is too tight to fasten the other buttons. Bond’s pea coat deviates from tradition with peak lapels rather than being able to button to the neck. There are four pockets on the front: two slash pockets on the chest and two horizontal flap pockets on the hips. Behind the collar and underneath the pocket flaps the coat is trimmed with brown leather. And rather than having the typical black plastic pea coat buttons with anchors this coat has dark brown horn buttons, which are more civilian and more elegant.

Skyfall-JumperUnderneath the pea coat Bond wears a white shirt with a semi-spread collar, plain front and single-button cuffs with rounded corners. The back is darted for a closer fit. The black silk tie has a texture woven with floats that somewhat mimics the look of a grenadine garza fina silk. Over the shirt and tie Bond wears a black wool V-neck jumper. Bond folds back the cuff of the jumper’s sleeve to elegantly reveal a little bit of white shirt cuff. Bond has never worn a tie with a casual outfit before, and he typically wears an open-neck shirt under his jumpers. The jumper over a tie is a very school-boy look and it appears that costume designer Jany Temime brought that look over from her work on the Harry Potter films. The shirt’s collar points sit under the jumper on one side and pop out on the other. The V is a bit too shallow to wear with a tie, since most of it is obscured. The jumper’s collar is almost like a deep crew neck rather than a V-neck. A shirt without a tie would have worked better with this jumper.

Skyfall-Peacoat-2The flat-front wool trousers are in a black and light grey sharkskin weave. They are cut with a long rise to the waist and have many Savile Row-type details, like an extended waistband with a hook closure, button-tab waist adjusters, a coin pocket on the front under the waistband, and only one rear button-through pocket on the right. The black 2-eyelet chukka boots are the Crockett & Jones Tetbury model. He also wears black unlined leather gloves.

Thanks to the Bond collectors at ajb007.co.uk, the sources for all these items have been identified. The pea coat is from Billy Reid, the shirt and tie are from COS, the jumper is from John Smedley, the trousers are from Acne and the gloves are from Dents.

Leather Jacket in Combat

Brown-Leather-Coat

In Tomorrow Never Dies Bond dresses warmly in a brown leather coat and two jumpers for the snowy Russian border. The coat is car coat length with a zip front and belted waist. The two lower patch pockets have an inverted box pleat and a flap. There is a welted slash pocket on either side of the chest, and sleeves have button-straps. Under the jacket Bond wears a dark blue, heavy wool, mock neck jumper with a zip to the neck. And under that he wears a thinner black, ribbed wool polo neck jumper. The olive trousers have cargo pockets on the sides of the upper thighs. Bond also wears black, cashmere-lined leather gloves and black boots.

Brown-Leather-Coat-2

Bonhams in Knightsbridge put two of the brown leather coats up for auction on 6 March 2007, but neither coat sold. Of the two lots the first also contained the black polo neck jumper, the green combat trousers and a black ski jumper. The listing follows:

A leather jacket, black polo neck sweater, a black ski jumper and green combat trousers, the brown leather ¾ length jacket, with black acetate lining, labelled inside “Angels & Bermans, The Costumiers to the Entertainment Industry”, inscribed in an unknown hand in blue ink “1997 TOMORROW NEVER DIES PIERCE BROSNAN” with further material detail label, the black ski jumper of elasticated cotton with zip to neck, the black polo neck of pure wool, with label inside “1997 TOMORROW NEVER DIES PIERCE BROSNAN“, the khaki military style combat trousers, with military label to inside bearing various inscriptions

The black ski jumper in the lot was not used in film, and the blue jumper from the film was not part of this lot. The coats appear to be identical in both lots except the coat in the larger lot is missing the belt and the coat sold alone is described as having a lining in “heavy cotton.” Both lots were put up for auction again on 16 June 2009. The first lot including the coat, two jumpers and trousers sold for £6,000 and the second lot with just the coat sold for £1,320.

Brown-Leather-Coat-3

Arrival in Cortina d’Ampezzo

Cortina Shearling Blouson

Bond arrives in Cortina d’Ampezzo in For Your Eyes Only wearing a very warm shearling blouson, similar to a flight jacket. The outside is light brown suede sheepskin and the inside is brown lambswool, which shows when the collar is folded over. The jacket has a zip front, two pockets on front, and brown ribbed cuffs and hem. Underneath the blouson Bond wears a bronze cashmere polo neck jumper with ribbed cuffs and a ribbed hem. His trousers are fawn cavalry twill with a flat front and a straight leg.

Cortina Shearling Blouson