Dream House: Double-Breasted Suit and Overcoat

Dream-House-Suit

Daniel Craig wears a double-breasted suit with a double-breasted overcoat in the 2011 film Dream House. This double-breasted suit is not a suit James Bond would wear. The cloth is a fancy stripe with sections of fine brown and blue stripes between thick medium blue stripes, which are bordered by navy stripes that are half the thickness of the medium blue stripe. It’s also hard to imagine James Bond wearing a double-breasted suit again, but Daniel Craig looks good in it. This one has four buttons with two to button. Craig only buttons the top, but since the button stance is rather high it would look better with both buttons fastened or just the bottom button fastened, like how the Duke of Kent and the then Prince of Wales wore theirs. It has straight shoulders with roped sleeveheads, a clean chest and slightly narrow lapels. There are four buttons on the cuffs, flap pockets and double vents. We don’t get a good look at the front of the the trousers, but they are probably flat front. They have a plain hem.

Dream-House-Suit-2

Skyfall isn’t the first time Daniel Craig wears a tab collar. Craig’s white poplin shirt has a tab collar and double cuffs. The collar is is narrower than the collar in Skyfall, making it look more old-fashioned whilst also being less flattering to Daniel Craig’s face. His tie is navy with a printed pattern in medium blue, which matches the colours of the suit’s stripes. it’s tied in a four-in-hand knot, which is the only knot that will fit in such a narrow collar. The silk pocket handkerchief is medium blue with a thick navy border, also pulling from colours in the suit. His shoes are chestnut brown derbies, but he makes the mistake of wearing a black belt with his suit trousers. It’s something he’s done again in the Bond series as well, but at least when he has the jacket on the belt is hidden.

Dream-House-Chesterfield-2

Over his suit, Daniel Craig wears a rather unconventional Chesterfield-style coat. It’s neither as dark as the traditional Chesterfield nor does it have a velvet collar—which isn’t necessary for the coat to be a Chesterfield—but in all other ways it fits the name. It’s difficult to wear a double-breasted overcoat with a double-breasted suit since there are so many layers in front. The double-breasted closure has six buttons with two to button and the hem hits just below the knee. The overcoat has set-in sleeves, darts in the front, three-button cuffs, a breast pocket and slanted hip pockets with flaps, which are for the most part kept tucked into the pocket. The cloth is a light grey and dark grey glenstripe, which is like a Glen Urquhart check sans the crosswise overcheck. The warp alternates in sections of four light and four dark yarns with sections of two light and two dark yarns. The filling just alternates with two light and two dark yarns. With the overcoat, Daniel Craig keeps warm with red-brown leather gloves.

It’s a flashier outfit than James Bond would ever wear. Whilst it’s not particularly fashionable, it’s very stylish. The suit’s cloth, cut and style along with the tab-collar shirt gives this outfit a very 1960s look, making it one of Daniel Craig’s most interesting outfits outside of the Bond series.

Dream-House-Chesterfield

Bill Tanner: Double-Breasted Rope Stripe Suit

Tanner-Rope-Stripe-Suit

In For Your Eyes Only, M’s chief of staff Bill Tanner, played by James Villiers, dresses in a manner very suitable for a man in a high position. He wears classic double-breasted suits that are cut almost exactly the same as what you’d find from an English tailor today. His suit jackets have six buttons with two to button, and their lower placement is the only thing that separates them from what’s currently fashionable. The jackets have a classic Savile Row silhouette with a clean chest and a straight shoulder on the natural shoulder line. They have flapped pockets and double vents. For this article we’ll just look at the charcoal rope stripe suit.

Tanner-Rope-Stripe-Suit-2

The shirt Tanner wears with this suit is a fine grey and white stripe. Grey shirts aren’t nearly as popular as blue and white, or even cream, but they’re a classically-stylish option in lighter tints. It has a small spread collar and rounded button cuffs. Tanner adds colour to his outfit with the tie and pocket square. The tie is a regimental stripe in navy and alternating red and maroon. It’s very similar to the well-known Brigade of Guards tie, but the tie only has one shade of red. Can anyone identify this tie? He ties it in a four-in-hand knot, and he matches a navy silk pocket square to the navy in the tie.

Buttoned at the bottom

Buttoned at the bottom, not the same as in the photo above

There’s a continuity error in the way Tanner buttons his suit jacket. In some shots he buttons the jacket the conventional way, with only the middle row fastened. In other shots he has only the bottom row fastened. Both are legitimate ways to fasten a double-breasted jacket, but the stiffer canvas on this jacket means the lapel doesn’t roll over the middle button so well when only the bottom is fastened. There are also a couple of fit problems with this outfit. The back of the coat doesn’t fit so well over the shoulder blades and the shirt sleeves are too short—but the jacket sleeves look fine. But overall it’s a very tasteful outfit and it commands the authority necessary for his position during M’s leave.

The Olive Suit

Olive-Suit-2

In The Man with the Golden Gun, Roger Moore wears a more adventurous wardrobe than he did in Live and Let Die. For one of the furthest suits from what Sean Connery had established as the classic Bond look, Moore wears a dark olive, double-breasted suit cut by Cyril Castle. The suit has very closely-spaced lighter pinstripes with wider-spaced red chalkstripes. The jacket has six buttons on the front with two to button, double vents, slightly slanted pockets with flaps, and flared link-button cuffs. The trousers have a darted front and flared leg.

Olive-Suit

The shirt is a white and gold bengal stripe in a twill weave, made by Frank Foster. The shirt has a spread collar, placket front and and two-button cocktail cuffs. The tie is light olive shantung silk, tied in a four-in-hand knot. Even though the outfit is in all earth tones, Moore wears black shoes. But because this suit is worn after dark, black shoes are appropriate, and they don’t clash when not in daylight.

Rolex

Bond’s Rolex Submariner with a close-up of the striped suit and shirt cloths

The Persuaders: The Striped Blazer

In the last of Roger Moore’s many television programmes, The Persuaders!, Moore took an extra role in designing the wardrobe of his character Lord Brett Sinclair. Moore was, at the time, the director of cloth merchant Pearson + Foster, which made suitings for both him and Tony Curtis in The Persuaders!. As a result, Moore wore some of the most unique and interesting fabrics of his career at this time. These bold fabrics were quite appropriate for an English lord and playboy, though too over-the-top for James Bond. Moore’s tailor from The Saint, Cyril Castle, still tailored the clothing. The example here is a double-breasted blazer in a bold, original pattern of wide maroon and green stripes with dark brown/green pinstripes. The fabric is influenced by striped boating blazers, which are usually single-breasted with more contrast in the stripes. The images here are from the second episode, “The Gold Napoleon,” though Moore wore this blazer many times throughout the series in the South of France.

The 6-button blazer in the traditional 2-to-button configuration has crested silver buttons. The wrap (front overlap) is narrower than the typical double-breasted jacket, and the top vestigial buttons are also placed in closer than what is typical. It is cut with soft shoulders, a clean chest, a nipped waist and a long, flared skirt with deep double vents. The blazer has 1-button gauntlet cuffs (with a rounded turnback) and slanted pockets.

Notice Moore’s gauntlet cuffs
In “The Gold Napoleon,” Moore wears the blazer with golden beige wool trousers with plain bottoms and frogmouth pockets. The shirt by Frank Foster is made of a pale lavender poplin with a spread collar and button-down turnback cuffs, which will be discussed in more detail at a later date. The tie is green leaves on a silver ground, tied in a four-in-hand knot. Moore match his trousers with beige socks and wears light brown slip-ons.