Lock Trilby in New Brown
Sean Connery wears a number of trilby hats in his first five Bond films, and at least the hat in Dr. No is identified as being from Lock & Co. Hatters. The closest hat to Connery’s trilby in Lock’s current range is the Sandown model. It has a tapered crown and a short 1 7/8-inch brim that is turned up at the sides and back. However, the Sandown is only available in medium brown, which is nothing like the colour of Connery’s hat. Lock claims that the Sandown in the colour they offer it in is exactly the same as Connery’s hat, but the hat in Dr. No looks much more like either a darker brown or a muted green, depending on if you look at the DVD or the Blu-ray. Lock sells the Wetherby in dark brown and gren, but the brim isn’t quite the same. It’s impossible to compare what Lock sells now to what they sold over fifty years ago because no matter how similar their hats are, not everything they offer is the same.
Lock Trilby in New Brown
As for the short-brimmed model, Lock used to make it in other colours. I have two vintage Lock trilbies with 2-inch brims, just a little larger than the Sandown has. But like Bond’s hats, neither of my hats can be found in Lock’s current catalogue. I do not know how old these hats are. One trilby is in a rather dark brown called “new brown,” and it has a half-inch brown grosgrain ribbon at the base of the crown. It’s very similar to Sean Connery’s hats in From Russia With Love, Goldfinger and Thunderball.
Lock Trilby in Coke
My other trilby is in a dark grey colour called “coke,” and it has a half-inch black grosgrain ribbon at the base of the crown. Unrelated to the name of the colour, Lock also uses the name “coke” for their bowler hats. Both of my hats have a light brown leather band inside and no lining. And both hats are identified by model number 3969 on the inside label above the colour name. They are blocked with a centre dent and a front pinch.
Lock Trilby in Coke
In You Only Live Twice, Bond visits Dikko Henderson’s (Charles Gray) home and follows the Japanese custom of removing his shoes. Bond finds himself leaving in a hurry to chase after Henderson’s killer, without time to put on his shoes. After running outside in his stocking feet, Bond kills the man who killed Henderson, taking not only his shoes but also his trench coat and fedora as a disguise. Bond wears the olive trench coat over his black and white herringbone suit. The knee-length trench coat is double-breasted with ten buttons. It has raglan sleeves, shoulder straps, a yoke across the upper back, a storm flap on the front right, and a single vent. It has a self belt—which Bond lets hang—and wrist straps that close with a leather buckles. The hat is a black fedora with a medium-narrow brim, a centre dent and front pinch in the crown, and a wide grosgrain ribbon.
Though the shoes are black and white and resemble co-respondent/spectator shoes, they are not such shoes in the traditional sense. The vamp is white and has a black stripe up the middle. The quarters are also white. The toe piece that extends around the front of the shoe is black, as is the heel counter. The shoes have black elastic gussets on the sides of the instep. The soles and heels are black. It difficult to tell if these shoes are leather, but the soles look like leather due to the wear. Rest assured, these ugly shoes are not Bond’s own!
During the fight, the shoes appear to be taller. The white extends higher in the front and back, but not on the sides. You can see the difference in the photo above. It’s not unusual for different shoes to be used in the same scene for more physically demanding parts.
George Lazenby’s car coat in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service is a hybrid of different overcoat styles. It’s a navy three-quarter length, double-breasted coat with elements from the British Warm and the pea coat. Like a British Warm it has six buttons on the front with three to button and suit-like pockets. Like a pea coat it has a large collar and broad lapels, which allow the coat to button at the top. It has a deeper single vent than most overcoats, one button on the cuffs and slanted hacking pockets with flaps. The mix of styles on this coat works well together. Though Lazenby wears the coat in a city setting over a chalkstripe suit and, later, a navy blazer, the coat can also be worn almost as casually as a pea coat can be. Lazenby wears the coat with a navy trilby and black leather driving gloves.
“007 never had any respect for government property,” says Q in regards to Bond’s trilby, implying that he supplies Bond’s hats as well as his gadgets. Bond wears two felt trilby hats in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. The black trilby in the opening scene is the same hat that Bond wears later at his wedding (above), and both of these scenes are in Portugal. The trilby has a narrow grosgrain ribbon and a C-crown with a front pinch.
Bond wears another trilby (below) with business wear in London. This one has a wide grosgrain ribbon and a taller, less tapered crown with a centre dent and front pinch. It’s very dark, but it’s probably navy. Both trilby hats have a narrow snap brim, and that’s what defines the trilby. Following 1960′s fashion trends the brims are extra short, but they suit Lazenby very well. Though Lazenby’s wardrobe is more fashionable and modern compared to Sean Connery’s rather traditional tailoring, he doesn’t forego the trilby the Connery has thus far worn or carried in all his Bond films.
Here the brim is snapped up in front, but it’s down when he visits the College of Arms.
Though I don’t know if it was a trend in 1965, Bond wears a matching sports shirt and trouser set in Thunderball. And it’s in a vivid royal blue. Out of Sean Connery’s casual Bahamas outfits in Thunderball, this one dates the worst. It looks like a well-fitting set of pyjamas, but Connery pulls it off. The shirt has a camp collar, four buttons down the front, and a straight hem. The hem of the short sleeves is turned up and sewn all the way around. The back of the shirt has shoulder pleats, which are pressed all the way down the shirt. There are two lower patch pockets on the front. If the shirt is of the quality we have come to expect from Bond, the white buttons are likely mother of pearl.
Though we see little of the trousers, they have a tapered leg and are pressed with a crease. Bond wears black slip-on shoes—probably the same shoes we see later when Bond puts his foot in the basin—and no socks. Goldfinger and Thunderball are the only times that Bond wears a straw hat. This pork pie hat is natural straw with a blue and white checked cotton ribbon. The hat has a telescopic crown with no pinch, and a short brim that’s turned up in back. A short brim is unusual for a straw hat since it provides little shade from the sun, but it’s part of the more typical pork pie style. To make up for the short brim, Bond wears the Wayferer-style sunglasses that we see more of later in the film.
Sean Connery’s second black and white plaid suit in From Russia With Love is almost identical to the glen plaid suit in Dr. No. The cloth is woven in a plain weave, making it better suited for warmer weather than the more traditional twill-weave Glen Urquhart check suit Connery wears earlier in From Russia With Love. The scale of the pattern on this suit isn’t as fine as the similar check in Dr. No, but all the details are the same except for pocket flaps being present on this suit. The button-two suit jacket has natural shoulders with roped sleeveheads, a draped chest and a nipped waist. It has double vents and four-button cuffs. The suit trousers have double forward pleats and turn ups.
Connery’s pale blue shirt is from Turnbull & Asser and has a spread collar, front placket and two-button cocktail cuffs. He wears a navy grenadine tie, tied in a four-in-hand knot. He wears a white linen folded pocket handkerchief, black socks and black derby shoes. His hat is a brown felt trilby.
In Dr. No, James Bond returns to his flat after a briefing at the office. Bond is wearing a dinner suit and carrying a chesterfield and homburg. Beside the front door we see an umbrella stand holding a classic stick umbrella with a black canopy, an item we’ve never seen Bond use. A brown trilby is sitting on top of the umbrella. Bond removes his shoes in the foyer and proceeds to his bedroom in stocking feet. When Bond opens the door the first item of clothing we see is a dark hat lying on its crown on the floor, and Sylvia Trench is using it to improve her golf game. The hat at first resembles as bowler, but it doesn’t have the brim of the bowler. It could just be a trilby with the crown pushed out. A pair of charcoal trousers is on a hanger, hanging on a the closet door, and they are likely the same trousers Bond wears later with his navy blazer.
Sylvia Trench puts on one of Bond’s pyjama shirts. The shirt is made of a self-stripe off-white cotton and has light blue piping along the edges as well as on the patch chest pocket and the base of the cuffs. The shirt has a straight hem all the way around the bottom with no vent. There are four buttons down the front, of which Trench buttons the bottom three. A shawl collar is cut from the same piece as the shirt’s front panels. We can also see a light blue piece of clothing sitting on a chair behind Trench, but it’s difficult to tell what it is.
On Christmas Eve morning in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Blofeld greets the girls outside wearing a British warm in light brown herringbone wool with a collar and lapels faced in light brown astrakhan fur. An astrakan-trimmed coat is a bit over-the-top for James Bond, but it is perfect for a villain, for whom nothing is ever too extreme. The British warm is a double-breasted, knee length overcoat. It usually has six buttons with three to button, as Blofeld’s does, though the fancy lapels and collar are not typical of a British warm. Blofeld’s coat has slanted pockets with large flaps on the front. Blofeld wears an astrakhan hat that matches the coat’s collar and lapels, and he also wears brown gloves.
The clothes Blofeld wears underneath the British warm appear to be the same as what he wears later during the battle at Piz Gloria. The brown zip-front jacket is made by Bogner, probably of an insulating synthetic material designed for skiing in. It has a short stand-up collar, vertical zip pockets on the front, a brown stripe on the sides and elasticised cuffs. Blofeld’s brown breeches match the jacket and are most likely made by Bogner as well. The legs extend a couple inches below the knee and tighten with a buckle. Underneath the jacket Blofeld wears a white mock polo neck jumper. He wears long, thick brown socks and brown suede-effect, rubber-soled ankle boots. The boots are most likely not real suede if the intent is to wear them in snow.
Bond stopped Blofeld’s plot and the world had a happy Christmas. I wish you all a happy Christmas.