Since 1968, Douglas Hayward has been at 95 Mount Street in Mayfair. The shop is at ground level and Hayward lived upstairs. Though Hayward himself passed away in 2008, cutters Ritchie Charlton and Campbell Carey continue the shop today. Though they originally came from Kilgour, they now cut their suits in Douglas Hayward’s style. Carey described the Hayward cut as “typically a West End London-looking jacket, a soft but natural-looking shoulder line, a square gorge—a signature look of Hayward.” The gorge is the seam where the collar meets the lapel, and Hayward’s jackets keep that line straight. Carey described the construction as “nothing too robust.” They use a softer canvas than Savile Row so the suit is less of a coat of armour. Hayward’s suits have more of a relaxed look overall.
The shop has its ready-to-wear clothes in front and the bespoke measuring and fitting is done in the back, pictured below. The shop has a modern feel but with many traditional touches. They also swapped Hayward’s upstairs flat for more basement workspace.
Douglas Hayward is most well known to James Bond fans as Roger Moore’s tailor in the 1980′s Bond films, and Moore is still a customer of the firm today. Though he doesn’t spend much time in England anymore, he stopped by Hayward around Christmas time to bespeak an overcoat. Moore’s measurements were written as 43 1/2″ chest, 36″ waist and 41 1/2″ seat. Those aren’t his measurements today, but likely his measurements during his Bond tenure. Michael Caine, one of Douglas Hayward’s most well-known customers as well as a close friend of the man, still comes in as well.
Roger Moore’s pattern for an overcoat. All patterns are kept folded up in envelopes.
Hayward has a ready-to-wear line that started two years ago featuring button 1, 2 and 3 jackets and blazers as well as double breasted models, all in classic Hayward style with a low button stance. The double-breasted suits have 4 buttons with 1 to button. The ready-to-wear shoulder has more structure than the bespoke suits and was described to me as “a cross between the Italian and Savile Row style.” They have Hayward’s classic “square gorge” and the front dart doesn’t continue through the body for an easy fit. Their line of shirts includes ones with cocktail cuffs, though their cocktail cuffs have sharp corners as opposed to the classic rounded corner. They have a good selection of classic ties, including grenadines.
A blazer from Hayward’s ready-to-wear collection
I was also told that Douglas Hayward was supposed to tailor suits for Sean Connery for the Bond films, but “they had a bit of a fallout.”
You can visit Hayward’s website at DouglasHayward.co.uk