Anthony Sinclair Returns

Sean Connery’s tailor Anthony Sinclair is back in business at No. 6 Sackville Street in London. Though Sinclair himself is no longer around, British designer David Mason has revived the name for a new operation that makes bespoke and Special Order suits in the spirit of classic Conduit Street tailoring. Mason was trained by Edward Sexton and serves as the creative director and marketer of the firm, bringing back the style of Sean Connery’s Bond suits and Sinclair’s famous “Conduit Cut.” The term “Conduit Cut” came from his British Guard’s Officer clients, according to his former apprentice Richard W. Paine, though Sinclair himself referred to his suit as “a Savile Row style.” Compared to the majority of Savile Row tailors in the 1950s and 1960s, Sinclair preferred lighter fabrics and a more natural silhouette, with natural shoulders. But his suits were still very much structured, as well as heavier and more robust compared to most suits today. After Sinclair retired, Richard Paine took over the business until he retired in 2005 and now helps out at the current Anthony Sinclair operation.

The firm’s Special Order suit (pictured above) is its most accessible product, starting at £625. This is a half-canvas suit made from a block pattern that can be customised to fit your body and your taste. The pre-defined style has been developed as a modern interpretation of Sinclair’s style, with a firmer, though still natural, shoulder and a sleeker silhouette than what he made for Connery. But Sinclair’s roped sleeve head, full chest, moderately suppressed waist and flared skirt of classic Savile Row style are still present. David Mason describes the Special Order suit: “The challenge with this exercise has been to create a contemporary product with reverence to the past, which can be worn effortlessly by the modern man, and appreciated by devotees of the original. Something that we think Anthony would be producing now, had he still been with us.”

But for something even closer to what Sean Connery wore or something completely different, Anthony Sinclair (the firm) makes hand-tailored bespoke suits the under the direction of principal cutter Paul Mundy. Mundy has worked for a number of Savile Row tailors and can cut in a variety of styles. In-between the bespoke and Special Order suits, Anthony Sinclair also offers a full-canvas, hand-tailored Made-to-Measure suit. In addition to tailoring, Anthony Sinclair makes shirts, in-house bespoke by a shirtmaker who apprenticed at Huntsman and made-to-measure sub-contracted to a manufacturer in Switzerland. Ties will also be sold, including seamless knits and grenadines just like Sean Connery wore himself.

For more information visit Anthony Sinclair’s website at anthonysinclair.com, check out their blog or follow them on Twitter, Facebook and Tumblr.

15 thoughts on “Anthony Sinclair Returns

  1. I’d love the opportunity to buy one of these one day, hopefully they’re up to the same standards of quality as they were during the Connery/Young era.

  2. On the topic of bespoke, I had a question:

    I bought several 42 regular sport coats and suit jackets off the rack about 3 years ago and had them all tailored to a more exact and athletic fit.

    But since then, I’ve lost about 15-20 pounds and went from a 35 to a 32 waist. None of my jackets fit anymore – but not just in the midsection – in the shoulders as well. When I try on new jackets, I fit into 41s and 40s. My tailor has been forced to take an inch off the shoulders of the old jackets I brought her since the shoulders now hang of my natural shoulder.

    So, what happened? Is the shoulder measurement a true measurement of your shoulder width (which I would think would be a skeletal and not subject to change in adults) or is it a measurement of chest diameter (which must have shrunk)?

    Sorry if this is an elementary question, but I while I knew waist sizes could change I guess it never occurred to me that jacket measurements would. Kind of makes it dangerous ordering expensive bespoke.

    • Jackets are sized by chest measurement. It’s expected that when you lose weight your chest size will change too. Your shoulder width is technically always the same, but how large your upper arms are makes a difference as far as shoulder width is concerned. The change in chest size also changes how the shoulders fit you. There are many dimensions to consider.

  3. Yeah, that’s pretty much the perfect suit and a little more authentic looking than the Magnoli I saw…
    What’s the availability for American’s? It’s almost a 1,000 dollars in our currency, so it seems like a little less of a value.
    Maybe I’ll just see if my local tailor can do something similar for about $600 a pop.

    • Haha. Well, the old site wasn’t more than just a fan site made for the company without input from anyone who knows about tailoring. There was no evidence that it was an actual tailor’s shop apart from an address. It placed more emphasis on James Bond than it did on suits, whereas the new website has a nice balance. It tells plenty about the products while establishing the unique brand. Though still I wish they focused more on their product and a little less on Bond. They are capable of so much more and I hope they showcase that too.

    • Perhaps they might if Bond was once again a spy rather than an action hero. The action scenes require a considerable number of suits for both the Bond actor and the stuntmen that bespoke tailors don’t have the capacity to make. However, I’m sure there are made-to-measure factories in England that are capable. But Tom Ford was not chosen for Bond just because of the suits themselves. There are other factors too.

    • That’s a very good point. The need for multiple pieces was the reason Brioni was chosen back when Goldeneye was made. Also the revenues from product placement make a global brand like Tom Ford ideal for a production of today’s scale. I suppose today’s circumstances being what they are, bespoke is too time-consuming and impractical for the series.
      I think convenience has a lot to do with the selection of Tom Ford too. It’s “one-stop shopping” for the costume designers– suits, shirts, ties, casual-wear, glasses, etc. all coming from the same source certainly keeps things simple.

      Always enjoy this blog, keep it up!

    • They wouldn’t need exact bespoke replicas for stuntmen in long and medium shots, or during action scenes because with a suit being pulled in all directions it’s hard to tell what it’s pedigree is.
      Fill the gap with good OTR suits.

      I have to say that Anthony Sinclair (the firm) may well be legit in terms of being a proper tailoring house, but it’s obvious that the Bond connection is it’s greatest marketing asset, and it instantly shows. It was mere accident that Sinclair was drafted in to dress Connery.

  4. “If Bond was once again a spy rather than an action hero”. What an interesting idea? How about they really stretch themselves and make him a staunchly British spy while they’re at it? What’s that you say…Probably not. Sadly, probably not.

    Incidentally, the suit pictured is, to be honest, while attractive enough, rather generic looking and its appearance doesn’t indicate any particular tailoring house. Then again, I accept, it’s not bespoke. If one wants to really have something special then you need to go for broke and have a bespoke suit from a tailor whose cut appeals to you or else source, for example, a vintage Sinclair or Hayward at a fraction of the price. Tom Ford is colossally overpriced merchandise for show off, nouveau riche types. Old money and class would never go that direction.

  5. I have to agree with David. The suit looks nice, but I am not sure I am seeing the direct comparison to Connery’s early 60s suits, other than the color. To me, the suit looks like a generic British cut, quite popular around 2002. The jacket looks a touch too long blend in well with today’s styles, and I thought Connery’s jackets were on the shorter side to elongate his legs. It would be interesting to see more examples of Sinclair’s current work and the integration of the Connery look with today.

    At nearly $1,000 per Special Order suit, can anyone offer an idea as to what can be expected from their Special Order? Seriously, in my experience that is at least half the cost of big label made-to-measure and at least one third the cost of true Savile Row bespoke.

    Also, I agree with David on Tom Ford – I generally like the suits, but they are ludicrously overpriced. Same with Brioni’s $5,000 off-the-rack suits.

  6. This suit reminds me more of the one Roger Moore wore in The Man With The Golden Gun, when he follows Maud Adams to her hotel room.

  7. Thanks for this very interesting article. I would like to have your opinion about this new “Conduit Cut” offer, Matt. Do you think it is interesting ? (of course, considering one just can’t pay £ 2,000 or 3,000 for a suit, at least for the moment…)
    It seems very interesting, but :
    -they don’t say anything about the trousers, and Connery’s style (high waistband , double forward pleats…) was very different from the “modern -and actual I guess- style” they are talking about.
    -About the only picture they provide, the jacket’s one. As other people have noticed it, it seems to me it is more a common modern suit jacket rather than the one Connery used to wear in his early movies. I may be wrong, but to me,
    -the button stance isn’t as lower as the original cut
    -the gorge seems higher (as it is seen on today’s actual suits) than the one of the original conduit cut of the early 60s.

    So, interesting offer or just good marketing technique ?

    PS : Sorry for my bad English, but I am French ^^

    • You’re right that the style of the Special Order suit isn’t the same as what Anthony Sinclair made. They don’t claim for it to be either. It’s a more typical modern English style. If you want something much closer to what Anthony Sinclair made himself they can do that bespoke. They are, however, able to make the same trouser style.

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