The 1980s Double-Breasted Suit


In the 1980s, the 4-button with 1-to-button double-breasted suit came into prominence around the world. The buttons of this style are in a ‘keystone’ layout with only the bottom functioning. This is a continental style that was rarely seen in England but had been popular for many years in France and Italy. In Octopussy Roger Moore wears a navy blue suit in this style for the scenes in Germany, and though we don’t see much of the suit in the film this outfit can be seen in many promotional photographs.


Typically this style was made with jetted pockets and no vents but Bond’s suit is Anglicised with flapped pockets and double vents. There are 3 buttons on the cuffs. The peak lapels on this suit are fairly narrow for a double-breasted suit, and both lapels have a buttonhole. The cut overall has a natural shoulder and somewhat draped chest. The suit trousers have a plain front, straight legs and plain bottoms.

Black slip-ons were popular to wear with suits in the 1980s

The white and light blue hairline stripe shirt has a spread collar and 1-button round-cut cuffs. The tie is navy with white polka dots and tied in a four-in-hand knot. Bond wears black socks and black slip-on shoes.

Bond abandons his suit coat and dons an Octopussy Circus jacket to fit in

In the following scenes Bond removes his suit coat and tie and replaces it with an Octopussy Circus jacket. Later he changes the jacket and shirt out for the red shirt and black vest worn by Mischka. But throughout this he still wears the navy blue suit trousers, black socks and slip-ons.

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