Daniel Craig’s Brioni dinner jacket in Casino Royale has been a great inspiration to many in the past 4 years. But many of the fine details of the outfit are known thanks to an article by Christopher Bray and Nick Foulkes titled “Dressed to kill; Barbara Broccoli calls Daniel Craig’s Bond ‘a tough guy in a dinner jacket’. But getting his look right proved the wardrobe team’s toughest mission,” published 30 October 2006 in Mail on Sunday. The black dinner jacket takes its cues from the most traditional of evening wear. It has a one-button front, grosgrain silk trimmed peak lapels, jetted pockets and no vents. There are 4 buttons on the cuffs, and according to the article by Bray and Foulkes the buttons are horn. However they are regular, sew-through horn buttons. From what I can see in the movie I would have guessed they are fabric-covered buttons (and they very well may be), though perhaps they are horn, albeit very thick and shanked. More likely the writers of the article got confused because the trouser buttons do appear to be regular horn. The cut is very characteristic of Brioni, with straight, padded shoulders, a clean chest and a suppressed waist. The buttoning point is at the waist. The sleevehead is roped for a more British touch, and the lapels are slightly on the narrow side and cut with a high gorge.
The classic Italian-cut trousers have double reverse pleats and a slightly shorter than traditional rise. There is no cummerbund or waistcoat worn here, left out to give the outfit a more modern look and to show off Daniel Craig’s abs. On the other hand, Bond’s trousers are held up by braces, the most traditional method of keeping up one’s trousers. The braces are white moiré silk (a type of watered silk) with gold fittings, made by Albert Thurston and provided by Gieves and Hawkes.
The shirt is made by Turnbull & Asser in a white-on-white waffle weave. The shirt has a spread collar and double cuffs with a mitred corner. The front of the shirt has a placket with hidden buttons. There are short side pleats at the back of the shirt. S.T. Dupont made the palladium cuff links. The bow tie is black shantung silk. Bond wears black calf 2-eyelet derby shoes, the John Lobb Luffield model. He doesn’t wear patent leather shoes this time, he just shines them well.
Costume designer Lindy Hemming talked about the dinner suit: “For the evening suit, he [Daniel Craig] was happy to go with Brioni, the Italian design company we’ve used on the last four films, because he knows and likes their style. But, because of Daniel’s more muscular physique, the evening suit is a new shape, so he looks modern in it. It’s fashionable to wear suits at the moment, so it doesn’t look anachronistic, and Daniel likes the tailored look.”