I had a request to write about the suit Bond wore on the train in Casino Royale, so here it is. Let me start out with a quote from Vesper Lynd in this scene: “By the cut of your suit, you went to Oxford or wherever. Naturally you think human beings dress like that. But you wear it with such disdain, my guess is you didn’t come from money, and your school friends never let you forget it.” By this I would assume they’re trying to pass off Bond’s Brioni suit as a bespoke Savile Row suit, but the cut of Brioni is distinctly Roman and not British. The shoulders are too square and too built up, giving the impression of a new-money-rich executive rather than an old-money, public school educated man.
The cloth is navy with a subtle, closely-spaced grey pinstripe that’s hardly there. This isn’t very British either, as they ordinary prefer their stripes to stand out, or at least appear to be there. The suit has a 3-button front and 4-button cuffs with straight, flapped pockets. We see very little else of this suit, but it’s likely that this suit is detailed in the same way as the suit in the following scene, which will be covered at a later date. That suit has a single vent and darted front trousers with turn-ups, and it wouldn’t be a stretch to assume that this suit has the same. At one point there’s a shot of the trousers beneath the table, and it appears that the trousers have an extended waistband. Bond isn’t wearing a belt with this suit like he does with the grey suit in the following scene. Lindy Hemming always dressed Pierce Brosnan with a belt so I’m sure this suit was meant to be belted too. Someone must have assumed that since Bond is sitting at a table throughout the scene that nobody would see the trousers. Or perhaps someone just forgot. It wouldn’t be the first wardrobe mistake in the Bond series.
The shirt is a white-on-white twill stripe with a fine blue or grey pinstripe centred on each white stripe. The scale of the shirt’s stripes conflicts with the similar scale of the suit’s stripes; patterns worn together should always be different in size so they don’t compete. The tie has a burgundy ground with a neat pattern of, what appears to be, yellow dots with a white pin-dot in the centre.