Casual Dinner in a Charcoal Flannel Suit

From Russia With Love Flannel Suit

Bond and Kerim Bey are overdressed for the Gypsy camp

In From Russia With Love, Bond wears a charcoal flannel suit to dinner at the gypsy camp. This is a typical Anthony Sinclair suit: a lower two-button style, natural shoulders with roped sleeveheads, a little drape and a nipped waist. This suit jacket has double vents, four buttons on the cuffs and flapped pockets. The trousers have double forward pleats with button-tab waist adjusters and turn-ups.

From Russia With Love Flannel Suit

The shirt and tie are also the usual. The pale blue Turnbull & Asser shirt has a spread collar, a placket, rear darts and cocktail cuffs. The tie is a navy grenadine. At the beginning of the evening Bond starts out with a white linen handkerchief folded in his breast pocket but removes it to wipe his hands. Later in the evening he puts it back in. In a continuity error, Bond wears two pairs of shoes with this suit: black 2-eyelet derbies and black slip-ons. His socks are black with a red band around the top. Or the red band could be something else.

From Russia With Love Flannel Suit

A Gypsy girl repairs Bond’s shirt

15 thoughts on “Casual Dinner in a Charcoal Flannel Suit

  1. This is awesome. Like the rest of Connery’s From Russia With Love suits. And I must disagree with boring – it is classic, simple, and without, say, a tie that will distract from Connery’s face.

  2. I want to preface this by saying that I love From Russia With Love, it’s one of my favorite in the series. I also love the suits Bond wears in the film, they are timeless classics in which 007 looks well-dressed and well-tailored without being rakish or flashy. The chalk-striped flannel is a particular favorite of mine.

    However, that said, I’ve always had a hard time distinguishing which suit he is wearing when; they sort of blend together– a problem I don’t have with Dr. No or Goldfinger, in which the outfits stand out from one another.
    For example, is this the same suit he wears upon arrival in Istanbul? It also looks very similar to the suit he wears later aboard the Orient Express, although I believe that one was ventless. He also wears a Glen check suit a few times, not sure if there is only one of these re-used or if it’s the same one in Kerim’s office and to meet Tatiana on the boat. Do you happen to know how many suits were used in the film?
    Not sure why I have a hard time with this, it is probably due to very similar hues and the uniform cuts. Still that said, I do think they all look very nice.

    • There are seven suits in From Russia With Love. This one differs from the other charcoal suit in the type of cloth; this one is flannel and the one for the Istanbul arrival is silk. The suit suit is also different with a single vent. The Orient Express suit isn’t as dark and is a regular worsted. There are two different Glen check suits: the first is black and white in a twill weave with a single vents and the second is black and cream in a plain weave with double vents.

  3. I do see where Kyle is coming from in relation to the suits in this movie. There is not anything which appears distinctive unless one looks, as you do, closely at the material etc. This is the issue with Connery’s movies and this tends to be seen as either a plus or minus point. In terms of clothing they appear somewhat monochrome. This wasn’t the case with Lazenby, Moore, Brosnan. “Diamonds are Forever” is similar in that, when one pictures the movie in ones minds eye, it seems like a lot of (mostly paler) grey suiting.

    • For once I have to disagree with David; when I think of DAF I remember the plaid sportcoat, the cream linen suit, the navy blazer, etc. If one overlooks the wide lapels and pocket flaps, DAF has something to satisfy every sartorial taste.

      Respectfully,

      Dan

    • He does wear one, but it’s merely seen. We have a look at it when he is asked to join the Gypsy people for dinner, with Kerim Bey, then it disappears, then we see it again in the Krilencu murder sequence.

  4. Matt,

    I’m hoping to get som FRWL-style suits made, and I’m trying summarise the style. What might you add to or alter about this description, by camparison with “typical” modern suits?

    “The shoulders are cut fairly broad, but are natural; they’re well supported but not built up with padding. There is a fair amount of wadding in the sleeveheads, though. The upper sleeves are generously cut, but the cuffs are narrow.

    “The jacket’s waist is a few inches lower than on most modern suits, and the jacket is slightly shorter than traditionally cut suits, but not short like some modern “slim fit” fashion suits. Button stance is lowered to match the waist, and the buttons are closely spaced.

    “Lapels are narrow, and the seam where the collar meets the lapels (which some people call the gorge) is a little lower than on most modern suits.

    “There is a generous amount of ease in the chest, and although the waist has some suppression, it isn’t tightly fitted. The skirt has very little flare.

    “Trousers have a higher rise and are tapered to narrow bottoms. They are without belt loops but have side button adjusters.”

    What else?

    I haven’t mentioned too much about the trousers because my own preference is for flat fronts without turn-ups; I’m not looking to have a replica James Bond costume made. Nor is this intended to be a forensic analysis of Sean Connery’s suits: I’ve noticed, for example, on the Dr. No suits in particular, that the entire forearms are cut very close. Any stretching action, like throwing a punch or even just picking up the attache case in the hotel lobby in FRWL, causes the sleeve to bind around the forearm and stay there. This appears to have been an aspect of Anthony Sinclair’s cut – you can see that his own sleeves are cut this way on the picture of him fitting Sean Connery for the silk suit – but it’s not something that I want to replicate.

  5. Matt, thanks for your reply. Point taken about the pleats. In fairness to Roger Moore, though, I think that the “Bender the Robot” look is at least partly due to the fact that he’s frozen in the act of breaking stride to step around a flower bed. Sir Roger always was a little bit “thick through”, though – you can see it even in the infamous knitwear model pictures – and his Saint era suits weren’t flattering in that respect. They look great in medium close-ups, though, and probably looked better in real life, where we don’t tend to scrutinize people in long shots, than on screen.

    • Pretty much any English shirt retailer should have one, though you’ll most likely find something closer to sky blue. For some reason, solid poplin isn’t as popular in America. But I do have a pale blue poplin shirt from Ike Behar.

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