Quantum of Solace Blue Suit

Quantum-Midnight-Suit

Let’s take a break from the 1960s and take a look at what Bond was wearing just two years ago in Quantum of Solace. We all know that in this film Bond wore suits by Tom Ford and much of the details have been described by costume designer Louise Frogley herself, most notably the shiny mohair tonic reminiscent of mod suits of the 1960s. She said, “It was extremely popular in the ’60s; all the Mods and all the wannabe Bonds wore it. I’m sure Sean Connery would have worn it at least once.” Conney’s Bond always struck me an an anti-mod, and in Goldfinger he even made a disparaging remark about the Beatles. Connery’s suits were always rather subdued and traditional; mohair tonic doesn’t fit the character. Bond’s suits weren’t supposed to stand out as Daniel Craig’s suits do. Tom Ford has a much flashier look overall than an English bespoke suit, and one that doesn’t fit Ian Fleming’s character.

There are at least four distinct suits featured in Quantum of Solace but for now we will focus on the one pictured above. At first glance it would appear that this suit is black but a few well-lit shots and promotional images show that the suit is actually a dark midnight blue, the same as his dinner suit. Black is not a traditional colour for a lounge suit and isn’t one that Bond wears often. The only time Bond wore a black suit was in Diamonds Are Forever, and it was the ideal choice for when mourning his “brother”‘s death. Midnight blue looks just about black (and sometimes blacker than black) but will shine blue under a bright light (see picture below). Black under a bright light will usually look brown or green. Midnight blue has a richer and deeper quality than black.

Quantum-Midnight-Suit-2

This suit has a 3-button front but the lapel is rolled down to the middle button so it behaves like a 2-button suit. The cuff has the 5 buttons that are typical of Tom Ford but Craig leaves the last button open. It’s an ostentatious practice that I usually don’t recommend, but as there is one more button than usual here undoing the last one makes the cuff look not so crowded. The pockets are straight with flaps plus a ticket pocket. The trousers are flat front with a medium rise, higher than the standard Tom Ford suits. The bottoms of the trousers have turn-ups (cuffs), and contrary to what many people say these days, turn-ups are fine with flat front trousers. Turn-ups and pleats are independent of each other and it all comes down to personal preference. Both Daniel Craig and Pierce Brosnan wore flat front trousers with turn-ups. The trousers also have buckle side-adjusters, placed on the waistband seam above the side on-seam pockets. All of the suits in this movie have the same features.

The shirt is a plain white poplin with a spread collar, double cuffs and no pocket. The tie is a blue and white basket weave. Bond’s shoes are the Church’s Philip model in black, which is a perforated cap-toe oxford (balmoral to the Americans).

24 thoughts on “Quantum of Solace Blue Suit

  1. I thought that Bond also wears a black suit during the climax of Goldfinger at Fort Knox, as he was basically going to his own funeral. I could be wrong, but that's what I always believed.

  2. In some shots it does appear black but it's a dark brown, very dark but not black. When Bond stands next to Oddjob who is wearing black, Bond's suit is noticeably lighter.

  3. I don't like any of the Tom Ford suits on DC…something just does not seem right and seems a bit too flashy for a secret agent. Also due to DCs over muscled physique his arms don't fall straight, making the shoulders look odd.

  4. I agree. Whilst Tom Ford suits can be very nice they are not appropriate for James Bond, especially not in mohair tonic.

  5. Please, he looks exactly as he needs to look for his work. The clothes, like the man and his mission, should evolve to fit modern and situational interpretation otherwise the franchise risks becoming a period piece. As Vespa said in Casino Royale when presenting the Brioni tuxedo to Bond. "I need you looking like a man who belongs at that table." That's what this is. Yes, perhaps he's walking a fine line between dandy and functional and yet do we not study Bond because some part of us wants to be as effective and stylish in our day-to-day living?

  6. Anon 2, the mohair tonic brings Bond back to the 60s, not to the present. And it just looks flashy. Bond should dress elegantly, and perhaps expensively to fit in with his crowd, but the extra flash is unnecessary for a secret agent. I don't have a problem with Tom Ford's cut, and his more recent clothing resembles English suits from the 70s more than most other modern fashions.

  7. I found it interesting the information on how to determine a midnight blue suit as opposed to a black.

    I just bought a Douglas Hayward suit (vintage 1981) in the "Bond" style of the time, low button stance and the seller advertised it as "dark grey". It was darker and appeared almost black but when viewed in light appeared to have more of a dark, dark blue hint to it. Midnight Blue I assume?

    Can you tell me how many times Bond has worn a Midnight Blue colour lounge suit and in which films?

  8. Quantum of Solace is the only time Bond wears a midnight blue lounge suit. I consider midnight blue to be in the black category more than in the blue. It's like a richer and deeper black that only looks blue in a bright light. It's better for a dinner suit than a lounge suit. But in the way that Bond wears it here, it's more like a substitute for black tie. The formality of this event is just short of black tie.

  9. Great Blog, Matthew, but there are a number of factual inaccuracies of which your reference to this suit being a dark midnight blue is one.

    In 'Quantum of Solace' the lounge suit Daniel Craig as Bond wears to the Green Planet cocktail party in La Paz (and which is then gradually destroyed during the remainder of the evening and the following day over, in and under the Bolivian desert) is a dark charcol grey – almost black. Presumably it is the same suit worn in early scenes with M at Michell's apartment and MI6 headquarters.

    Following the film's theatrical release in late 2008, a number of official Danjaq licensed collector's costume cards were released, each containing swatches of the original clothing worn by Craig and other cast members. The costume card range includes swatches of all three suits worn by Craig and I purchased a number of these in order to ensure that fabrics used when tailoring replicas of all three suits matched the original fabrics as closely as possible.

    Costume card 'QC02' contains two swatches: one of the suit worn by Bond in the Green Planet / Bolivian desert scenes and one of the black dress worn by Olga Kurylenko as Camille in the same scenes. You will find these cards still for sale on eBay. If you take a look there you'll see that Camille's dress is practically black and Bond's very dark charcol grey suit matches it. See –

    http://cgi.ebay.com/James-Bond-Archives-QC02-costume-card-083-875-/300502162588?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f7531c9c

    You are quite right about there being three suits in Quantum of Solace, however. The other two suits are of course the navy blue suit with light blue pin stripe worn during the opening chase scenes in Italy and a very interesting brown suit, worn during Bond's Virgin Atlantic flight and arrival in La Paz with Rene Mathis. These are costume cards 'QC13' and 'QC17' respectively and can be viewed at -

    http://cgi.ebay.com/James-Bond-Archives-QC13-costume-card-361-775-/290542324506?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a5ac0b1a

    and

    http://cgi.ebay.com/James-Bond-Archives-jacket-pants-costume-card-QC17-/300547094131?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45fa00b673

  10. Ben, I have the costume cards and I'm sorry, but this suit is indeed midnight blue. The blue shows up quite clearly in contrast to the black on the eBay link too. The swatch matches up closely to my own midnight blue clothes. The guys over at AJB007 also take the swatch to be midnight blue. Is your swatch one of the dirty ones? That could make it look grey. On my card of the blue pinstripe suit one is clean and one is dirty, and the dirty one looks grey.

  11. Is it proper to roll the lapel down? Another Question: If the event was just short of black tie why doesn't bond wear a midnight blue, peaked lapel, one button suit?

  12. The lapel is not just rolled down, it is cut that way. Because of where the collar meets the lapel, this suit cannot close at the top button. A 3-roll-2 cut is the tailor's responsibility and has little to do with the way the suit is pressed. But the lapels cannot be pressed flat. Bond's suit is perfectly acceptable for the event. Just because it is a more formal event doesn't mean his suit jacket needs to be cut like a dinner jacket.

  13. In that picture, because the suit is covered in dirt the blue is hard to see. Bond's shirt was originally white, so that says how much dirt is on Bond's clothes. I have the costume card that Ben mentions, and even in the picture on eBay I can see that it is dark blue, not charcoal. The blue tie further brings out the blue in the suit. The suit Bond wears in London is charcoal.

  14. Matt, I have a question about the shirt collar and the tie knot. On AJB, there have been some recent discussions on this topic, and it has been put it there that the collar is a “Duke of York” collar and the tie knot is a pratt knot. What is your take on this?

    • The “Duke of York” is what T.M. Lewin calls it’s semi-spread collar. The knot is not a Pratt knot as in one scene when Bond unties the tie it is not inside out. Because the knot is not totally symmetrical it is a four-in-hand. The heavier silk and interlining makes the knot look cleaner.

  15. Bond’s suit is still very good in the last image, but it’s extremely dirty. How often should I clean my suits? Regards

    • It depends on how often you wear it, but if a suit is in regular rotation you should clean it once or twice a year. Any stains should try to be removed first by brushing and spot cleaning. Smells should be aired out. Only dry clean when necessary.

  16. I was wondering about the shirt. In the lighting for the film it looks plain white, but in this wallpaper I found, the shirt clearly has a self stripe to it.
    http://th06.deviantart.net/fs71/PRE/f/2011/205/f/3/quantum_of_solace_wallpaper_by_guardofazkaban-d41gxp3.jpg

    Now I know this is a fan-made wallpaper, but they had to get the picture of bond from somewhere. Based on the color of the tie I assume that he’s wearing the Blue suit combo, but then why would his shirt be striped unless it was that way in the film?

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