Designing Bond’s Look

007.com has put out a short documentary in conjunction with the upcoming Barbican exhibition about Bond’s clothes over the years. David Mason and Ritchie Charlton of Anthony Sinclair and Douglas Hayward, respectively, discuss their firm’s contributions to the Bond series and Lindy Hemming talks about her approach in dressing Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig in Brioni. Watch the film below:

Designing 007: Fifty Years of Bond Style runs from 6th July to 5th September.

16 thoughts on “Designing Bond’s Look

  1. Short but very interesting ! Thanks for sharing. Apparently, with today’s modern action scenes, it seems that Bond (Craig or his successors) will be dressed by luxury menswear brands forever, and that London tailors will never work for a Bond movie again. It’s a shame, but there are worse makers than Brioni or Tom Ford after all.

    PS : Matt, I have a question about suit trousers’ turn-ups : whatever the era is, Connery’s, Brosnan’s or Craig’s, even Red Grant’s trousers’ turn-ups, they all look the same. Do you know what height it is (perhaps 1.6 inches ?) , and is it a classic height for turn-ups ? Thank you very much.

    • 1.5-1.75 inches is the standard height for turn-ups. Sometimes they can be as tall as 2 inches, on a really tall person, and some Americans traditionally preferred them that way.

    • All Tom Ford turn ups are a standard 2″. The rest are a combination of both available fabric within a suit and the designer’s original intent.

  2. I respect a lot of Hemming’s other work, but she made Pierce Brosnan’s style way too Italian in look, no matter how she justifies it. Not to mention, most of those ties and cufflinks were tacky in design. He looked expensively dressed rather than well dressed. There are some individual pieces I don’t mind, but overall it just didn’t feel like something Bond would wear. Casino Royale was slightly better, but she again made the mistake of having Bond wear a belt with a three piece suit.

  3. all this gushing over Dr No (in which Connery, presumably directed by style guru Terrence Young has the wrong button done up on his blazer) yet a quick dismissal (as Hemming is always prone to do) of Roger Moore as ‘fashion Bond’ paints a tired and predictably ill-informed picture of Bond style.

    Also why does nobody EVER mention Frank Foster? The Hayward and Sinclair guys interviewed never made for a Bond film, but THE MAN of Bond shirts is sat happily working away in Pall Mall.

    Poor.

    • Moore seems to be only remembered for the clothes he wore in The Spy Who Loved Me and Moonraker, where lapel and trouser widths were at their extremes. If he stayed with Cyril Castle through the 70s we probably wouldn’t have seen such extremes, and the bad guys in Live and Let Die make even the most fashionable Roger Moore look classic. The rest of his clothes weren’t any more fashionable than Connery’s, just hints from their respective decades.

      You’ll soon be hearing more on this blog about Frank Foster. His clothing contributions to Bond are only second to Turnbull & Asser’s in counting the number of films, though he contributed more to the films he worked on than Turnbull & Asser did to their’s , so it comes out about evenly.

    • Frank reckons he made the shirts for Dr No and Thunderball plus OHMSS and of course all the Moore ones so it must be VERY close.

      He said that after Dr No he was contracted by costumiers Bermans and Nathans rather than EON directly which may have lead to some confusion…

    • I’ve heard that about Dr. No but not about Thunderball. The Turnbull & Asser people claim to have made all of Connery’s shirts. OHMSS and Never Say Never Again are clearly Foster shirts. I should be seeing him next week so I’ll talk to him about it.

    • I picked up some shirts from Frank today and he said you’d interviewed him last week and that you ordered some shirts. Did you get some Bond-inspired ones?

    • literally can’t wait! he said you’d ordered some different cuff styles!

  4. Having viewed the short film, for me, it comes down to this; Ms. Hemming knows as much about tailoring as the Temime woman currently responsible for the Bond look, which is very, very little. I echo the comments of James St John Smythe 100%. Traditional British tailoring has parted company with the Bond producers since Moore left the series (Although I do think that, overall, Piece Brosnan was very well dressed) and I don’t care for the Broccoli clan at the helm since Cubby passed away. Nobody associated with the series now has any interest or feel for fine tailoring.

    • I don’t think it’s as much a dis appreciation for fine tailoring as much as it is for crass commercialization. The truth is that the big firms can mass produce suits for not only the film, but can use the film to directly sell the specific models and looks they want.

    • That and the bigger firms will probably do the work nearly pro-bono in return for advertising. Many British firms would be either too hard pressed to turn out the amount required or be on the hook for financial peril.

  5. Having just been to see this, what was an extremely well mounted exhibition, it was pretty good overall but sartorially a little limited. I mean; no mention of Cyril Castle, Frank Foster or Turnbull and Asser, 1 example of Douglas Hayward’s beautiful tailoring and a couple of recreated Sinclair pieces. Yet, a nondescript dinner suit worn by Dalton which looked like something from a chain store makes an appearance??!!

    I know and accept that the clothing of 007 was only one aspect of this design exhibition and it wasn’t intended to be otherwise, however, the pieces chosen might have been a little more discerning/wide ranging given the breadth of Bond’s range over the years.

    • Some of the shirts were from Turnbull & Asser, like the one worn with the Octopussy dinner jacket. Not authentic but they did that. More to come here on the exhibition later.

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