The Midnight Blue Wool/Mohair Dinner Suit


Let’s celebrate the 100th blog entry on The Suits of James Bond with black tie! In The World is Not Enough, Bond visits Valentin Zukovsky’s Baku casino wearing a 1-button midnight blue, wool/mohair dinner suit. Wool/mohair blends are popular for dinner suits because the subtle sheen of mohair gives off a more formal look. The dinner jacket has midnight blue silk peak lapels, jetted pockets, 4-button cuffs, and a traditional non-vented back. The buttons are covered in midnight blue silk. The matching trousers have a darted front and stripe down the side.


Bond’s white dress shirt has a marcella spread collar, marcella double cuffs and a marcella bib front. The collar and cuffs have 1/4-inch stitching. The shirt has a more formal French front shirt, meaning it doesn’t have a separate placket. The shirt is worn with mother of pearl studs and round cufflinks in gold and mother of pearl. The shirt is probably from Turnbull & Asser as it has their style of double cuffs, with the buttonholes closer to the fold than most shirts have. Bond wears a midnight blue silk bow tie but no waistcoat or cummerbund here. The x-ray glasses are made by a Blue and the model number is MOD No.9048 ANT BLUE 50X19. The blue lenses were put in afterwards. It’s just a coincidence than the company’s name is blue.


Some readers have suggested that Bond should have worn a white dinner jacket in this scene. I disagree because, even through it’s a dry place, Baku in wintertime is too cold for a white dinner jacket. Only four men are seen in the casino wearing white dinner jackets, and if Bond wore one he would be standing out more than he should. The last time Bond wore a white dinner jacket was in A View to a Kill.

19 thoughts on “The Midnight Blue Wool/Mohair Dinner Suit

  1. Thats interesting about the glasses. I seem to remember there being some promotion with Calvin Klein at the time this movie was released. I always thought the glasses were Klein.

  2. The glasses in Bilbao and the sunglasses in the ski scene are both from Calvin Klein. The x-ray glasses here got the shortest amount of screen time but are by far the most memorable, which I'm sure upset Calvin Klein.

  3. Very nice look; Brosnan's best dinner suit I think. The proportions seem better than in the first two movies.

  4. This is a pretty sweet black tie rig. Not a fan of the blue sunglasses though… one of the most pointless gadgets of the movie IMO.

  5. I agree that the x-ray glasses were pointless, but unlike so many of Bond's gadgets, this one wasn't used as a cop out. These were simply used to make the viewers wish they could see under girls' clothing too.

  6. Is it permissible to wear rather slim fitting trousers with no pleats with a dinner jacket?

    Every image image I've seen of people modeling dinner jackets are wearing potato sacks down there.

  7. Trousers should be proportionate to the jacket and your body. Pleats are not necessary, though you can still have baggy trousers without pleats and slim trousers with pleats. The trousers worn with a dinner jacket are cut just the same as any suit trousers. They match the jacket (whether black or midnight blue) and have a silk stripe or braid down the side. Properly, they should sit at the waist, not at the hips. The width of the legs depends on your body type and the fit of the jacket. A very slim fit is only proper if you are very slim. The trousers should not be or look tight. The leg needs to be wide enough to balance out your upper half. Your legs shouldn't look like toothpicks.

  8. ^ For a good example of this, look at Connery's dinner suits. The early '60s did the tapered-but-not-tight look best, something that eludes all of today's fashion designers.

  9. I noticed the bowtie in this scene looks different. Is it the bowtie itself or the way the bowtie is tied?

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