Scaramanga: The White Suit

“He usually wears a white linen suit, black tie, and jewellery, all gold.” Miss Anders described Scaramanga’s dress to Bond after he twisted her arm. It’s not actually a pure white, but off white. The jacket has a 3-button front, a single vent, slanted hip pockets but no breast pocket, and 3-button cuffs. The collar is essentially a camp collar, even though it’s a term usually used for shirts. This type of collar was commonly found on leisure suits in the 1970s. Like typical leisure suits, this is also made of polyester, not linen. It is trimmed with mother-of-pearl-effect buttons and a cream satin lining. This jacket was auctioned at Bonhams in Knightsbridge on 6 March 2007 and sold for £5,520.

The cream trousers were also sold at Bonhams, two years later on 16 June 2009 and sold for £480. According to the auction these trousers are wool (with a waffle texture), and since they are not the same material as the jacket the outfit is not actually a suit. The trousers have a narrow leg, darted front, belt loops (with a belt buckle keeper), a hook closure and plain bottoms. The jacket and the trousers were made by costumiers Bermans & Nathans.

Scaramanga’s cream shirt has a moderate spread collar and double cuffs, with gold cuff links of course. The left cuff link becomes the trigger for the golden gun. Scaramanga makes no secret of his admiration for James Bond, and he even has an element of Bond’s dress in his own: the black silk knit tie. It’s the tie of the literary Bond, and Roger Moore wears one off of Scaramanga’s 007 mannequin in the end of the film. Scaramanga completes his outfit with white shoes.

Royal Navy Commander’s Dress Uniform

Sean Connery in You Only Live Twice

The Blue No. 1 dress seen here is the best uniform and worn on ceremonial occasions. Bond wears this officer’s uniform for briefings in You Only Live Twice, The Spy Who Loved Me and Tomorrow Never Dies. The colour of the wool is a true navy, which almost looks black. The jacket is an 8-button double breasted with 4 to button, and the gilt buttons have a crown and anchor motif. The double-breasted lapels have a buttonhole in each peak. The jacket has jetted pockets, short double vents, and the rank insignia of commander on the sleeve, consisting of three rings of gold braid with the executive curl in the upper braid. The style of the trousers can vary, but often they are made with traditional forward pleats. They may have side adjusters, a self-belt or some other method of holding them up.

Roger Moore with Desmond Llewelyn in The Spy Who Loved Me

Officers’ dress uniforms are typically made by bespoke tailors who specialize in military cuts. A military cut has strong, padded shoulders (often with roped sleeveheads), a clean chest and a long skirt. Connery and Moore may have had their uniforms made by their tailors Anthony Sinclair and Cyril Castle, respectively. However, it’s also possible that costumiers Bermans & Nathans made the uniforms. Bermans & Nathans made other naval wear for Moore in The Spy Who Loved Me. Brioni may have made Brosnan’s uniform, as it has a cut reminiscent of Brioni’s tailoring, but it’s still a possibility that costumiers Angels & Bermans made it.

Pierce Brosnan with Joe Don Baker in Tomorrow Never Dies

A peaked cap with a white crown accompanies the uniform. Connery’s white shirt has a point collar and double cuffs and Brosnan’s shirt has a spread collar and single cuffs. Moore’s shirt has a point collar (with a large amount of tie space) but his jacket sleeves are too long and the shirt cuffs are not seen. They wear solid dark navy ties in a four-in-hand knot. The shoes are shined black leather, most likely oxfords.

Poker at The One&Only Ocean Club

Thanks to the guys at ajb007.co.uk there is a lot of information on this outfit, particularly the shirt. Here’s where most of the following information comes from:

http://www.ajb007.co.uk/topic/28551/ocean-club-shirt/
http://www.ajb007.co.uk/topic/30901/the-alfani-shirt/
http://www.ajb007.co.uk/topic/33642/cr-bahamas-casino-shirt-color/
http://www.ajb007.co.uk/topic/36237/casino-royale-beach-club-trousers/

This shirt has very interesting origins. It was originally a hidden-button-down shirt from the Macy’s house brand Alfani and later altered into a much different style. The collar buttons and hidden tabs were removed so the collar could be worn like a camp collar, and the shirt tails were straightened into a straight hem with short side vents. The reason I would guess for choosing a hidden-button-down shirt as opposed to a shirt with a regular collar is because this kind of collar has a much softer construction and doesn’t have an stiff interlining like a regular collar does. The sleeves have button cuffs and the shirt has a breast pocket. Though the shirt has been described by costume designer Lindy Hemming as “heavy navy blue”, from the costume card the swatch is certainly black. The fabric is polyester and woven in a twill weave. Polyester was chosen for a soft look, but in reality this would not be a practical choice for the Bahamas. A cotton or linen shirt would be far more comfortable in the heat and humidity.

The plain-weave linen trousers are the “Larked” model from Ted Baker. The colour is called “mink,” which can best be described as taupe. They have a flat front, straight-cut legs, a full break and plain hem. The side pockets are slanted and there is one rear jetted pocket on the right. There are belt loops but the belt is missing. Bond’s shoes are black.

Trench Coat and Trilby

In For Your Eyes Only, Bond enters the office carrying a beige trench coat and navy trilby with his navy chalkstripe suit. The trench coat has an 8-button double-breasted front, set-in sleeves, shoulder straps and cuff straps. It is lined in a brown, tan and beige check. The trilby has a pinched crown with a centre dent and a blue grosgrain ribbon.

Emilio Largo: The Ivory Double-Breasted Dinner Jacket

The villain in Thunderball, Emilio Largo (Adolfo Celi), channels Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca in his ivory double-breasted, shawl-collar dinner jacket. Largo wears a ivory dinner jacket to contrast with Bond’s midnight blue dinner suit. The dinner jacket has a clean chest and wide shoulders with roped sleeveheads. It has a 4-button front with 1 to button, 4-button cuffs, jetted pockets and no vents. The buttons are mother of pearl. The black trousers have double forward pleats, suspended by white clip-on braces with brass hardware.

Largo’s dress shirt has a plain white spread collar, double cuffs and a narrow-pleated front. The shirt body is made in a white-on-white cotton. The front closes with two studs. Largo wears two black bow ties: a regular thistle and a narrower thistle with diamond ends. His black calf shoes have elastic gussets on the sides of the instep and either a plain or cap chiselled toe. G. J. Cleverly & Co. are known for making such a style, but Largo’s may have been made elsewhere. The shoes are elegant enough to pass with black tie, but they are versatile enough that the modern man can wear them with jeans.

Crab Key Island Wear

For his exploration on Crab Key, Bond wears a light blue cotton knit shirt tucked into light blue trousers. The polo shirt has a 2-button collar. The trousers sit at the waist and have button-waist-adjusters, an extended waistband that closes with 2 clasps, and two rear pockets. There are actually two different pairs of trousers worn in these scenes, and they differ in the pockets. One pair has frogmouth pockets and the other has slanted side pockets. The trousers have a visible hem, but Bond often wears them rolled up. Bond’s shoes are dark blue canvas 2-eyelet derbies in most of the shots, though in one shot they are slip-ons.

Trousers with frogmouth pockets
Trousers with slanted pockets

The Tan Linen Suit

Tan-Linen-Suit

Summer is nearing the end, but linen suits still have a little time left before they go out of season. In Die Another Day, Pierce Brosnan wears a casual tan linen suit from Brioni, with strong shoulders, a clean chest and a longer jacket length. The fabric is probably on the heavier side for linen, so it rumples more than it wrinkles. Yet in a plain weave it still breathes well and is comfortable in warm weather. This is one of the few 2-button suits Brosnan wears in the Bond series. When the 90s went out, the 3-button suit was no longer at the height of fashion and the 2-button grew in popularity again. This suit jacket is detailed with swelled edges, double vents, flapped pockets, and 4-button cuffs. The buttons are tan corozo nut.

Tan-Linen-Suit-2

Brosnan wears the suit jacket open, with an open-collar shirt. The shirt is dark blue with stripes in what may be orange and yellow. The shirt has a camp collar, a plain front and button cuffs. The darted front suit trousers have turn-ups and are worn with a dark brown belt. The shoes are tan slip-ons.

Tan-Linen-Suit-3

Midnight Dinner Jacket in the Bahamas

Thunderball-Dinner-Suit

For his trip to the Bahamas in Thunderball, Bond brings a shawl-collar midnight blue dinner jacket in mohair with midnight satin silk trimmings and buttons. The trousers have a matching midnight satin stripe down each leg. The jacket has a 1-button front, jetted pockets, 4-button cuffs and no vents in the back, so it’s a traditional dinner jacket all the way. Now why didn’t Bond wear a white dinner jacket? That was saved for Largo, to make him stand out as the bad guy. Bond wears a white-on-white striped dress shirt with a spread collar, 2-button turnback cuffs, and a placket with mother of pearl buttons. The slim, batwing bow tie is made in black satin silk, so there is a slight mismatch with the jacket’s trimmings.

This image shows how blue Bond's dinner suit is in comparison to Vargas' black dinner suit.

This image shows how blue Bond’s dinner suit is in comparison to Vargas’ black dinner suit.

This dinner jacket was sold at Bonhams in Knightsbridge on 6 March 2007 for £33,600. This piece was not made by Connery’s usual tailor, Anthony Sinclair, but by famous costumer M. Berman, who made many clothes for other actors in the Bond series. This suit is cut cleaner and trimmer than Sinclair’s suits, but it still has the same overall look. According to the listing, the jacket has a burgundy satin lining, and the jacket was altered for use in later productions. One of the alterations included the addition of black silk gauntlet cuffs like Connery wore on his dinner jacket in Dr. No and From Russia With Love. They call it black in the description, but midnight blue is meant to look black under artificial lighting. The uninformed cannot tell them apart. There’s also the possibility that the dinner jacket at the auction is not what it claims to be.

Thunderball-Dinner-Suit-3