Not until next week will I be getting to Designing 007 at the Barbican, but the people at Anthony Sinclair have re-created the iconic grey glen plaid suit from Goldfinger for the exhibition. A few months before Goldfinger, Sean Connery wears appears to be that suit in Woman of Straw, sans waistcoat. The jacket has the same 2-button front, flapped pockets with a ticket pocket, double vents and 4-button cuffs, and the trousers have forward-pleated trousers with side adjusters. Connery wears the suit with a sky blue shirt. The shirt has a spread collar and double cuffs. Connery wears a brown satin tie, a folded white linen handkerchief in his breast pocket and black shoes.
Another iconic piece from Goldfinger also first appears in Woman of Straw: the white dinner jacket. It sees a little more use in this film than it does in Goldfinger, and Connery wears it on two occasions in the Mediterranean. This off-white dinner jacket has a 1-button front with peak lapels, 4-button cuffs, jetted pockets and no vents in the rear. The black trousers have double forward pleats and no stripe down the side. The shirt is different than what Connery wore in Goldfinger. It’s plain white poplin with a spread collar, double cuffs and a placket, no pleats or satin stripes like the shirt in Goldfinger. The placket has stitching is closesly spaced down the middle that suggests Frank Foster, but it’s possible another shirtmaker also stitches plackets in that style. Connery foregoes the bouttonnière but wears a folded white linen handkerchief in his breast pocket.
In 1964, Sean Connery starred in a crime thriller called Woman of Straw, and it features many of the same clothes that Connery wears a few months later in Goldfinger, including suits and dinner jackets most likely made by Anthony Sinclair. The classic brown barleycorn hacking jacket that we saw in Goldfinger and Thunderball also appears in this film. It could possibly be a different piece altogether, but the resemblance is striking. It would seem odd that the Bond films would use leftovers from another film, though it may have been planned this way. The clothes in this film didn’t see nearly as much wear as they did in Goldfinger, and the production could save money and time by using perfectly good suits already made.
Connery wears both the hacking jacket as well as the tan cavalry twill trousers with frogmouth pockets that are later seen in Goldfinger and Thunderball, but what he wears them with is different. The shirt is the same style as the shirt in Goldfinger, with a spread collar and double cuffs, but in sky blue instead of ecru. Connery wears a solid brown tie, tied in a four-in-hand knot, and he wears the same waistcoat seen in Goldfinger under the houndstooth suit from M’s office. The beige wool waistcoat has a 6-button front, and Connery closes all the buttons. The bottom button isn’t supposed to be buttoned on this waistcoat and it causes the bottom to bunch up and pull.
Later I will be writing about other clothes from Woman of Straw, whether seen in Goldfinger or just exclusive to this film.