The Foreman of Signals in Dr. No, played by John Hatton, has proven to be a more memorable dresser for other people than he has been for me. After I posted about the new Q’s cardigan, comparisons started to be drawn to this uncredited character who also wears a cardigan and tie. He wears a very basic charcoal cardigan with five buttons and ribbed cuffs, turned back. Under the cardigan he wears a white shirt with brown pencil stripes. The shirt’s wide spread collar provides enough room for the windsor-knotted, solid red-brown tie. He wears charcoal trousers with a light brown belt.
In comparison to the new Q, the Foreman of Signals is dressed much less colourfully. His outfit’s only colour is the dull red-brown tie, whilst Q’s outfit has brown, red and blue. Q’s cardigan follows the current trend for a closer fit, but that also makes him look younger. The Foreman and Q both wear the same half-frame style glasses, though Q’s are black and the Foreman’s are brown.
Skyfall‘s costume designer Jany Temime wanted Q (Ben Whishaw) to look like a young computer nerd, in the style of an “expensive student.” Q dresses in a young, casual and hip fashion, and it reflects the character’s immaturity and cockiness. Nevertheless, he is still fashionable in the “geek chic” style. Whishaw’s most memorable outfit features a light brown wool Dries Van Noten V-neck cardigan. It has the zip front, slash side pockets and ribbed bands across the shoulders and down the upper arm, and down the forearm. The continuous collar and fly has a dark blue and red stripe.
Q’s shirt is white with light grey pencil stripes and has a spread collar and double cuffs. His dark blue knitted tie from Zara is tied in a four-in-hand knot. Q’s trousers are a gingham check with dark blue and maroon, picking up the colours of the cardigan’s color. The dark blue suede chukka boots further reflect the blue found in every piece of this outfit except the shirt. The boots’ tan rubber soles roughly match the cardigan.
For his dinner with Bond in Goldfinger, M wears the least dressy of all dinner jacket styles: the double-breasted, shawl collar dinner jacket. It’s the type of dinner jacket that’s most like a smoking jacket. I can’t tell for certain it’s double-breasted, but from the very wide lapels and the bunching of the breast pocket it looks like he is wearing a double-breasted dinner jacket unbuttoned. M’s black dinner jacket has natural shoulders and roped sleeveheads, and the sleeve cuffs have four buttons and a satin silk turnback that matches the lapels.
M’s dress shirt doesn’t have any fancy details, but it may have been made in silk to set it apart from an everyday shirt. It’s slightly off white, which could be a further indicator that it’s silk and not cotton. It has a spread collar and double cuffs with edge stitching and a plain front with mother-of-pearl buttons. The bow-tie is black satin silk in a thistle shape. He wears a puffed white handkerchief in his breast pocket.
In For Your Eyes Only, M’s chief of staff Bill Tanner, played by James Villiers, dresses in a manner very suitable for a man in a high position. He wears classic double-breasted suits that are cut almost exactly the same as what you’d find from an English tailor today. His suit jackets have six buttons with two to button, and their lower placement is the only thing that separates them from what’s currently fashionable. The jackets have a classic Savile Row silhouette with a clean chest and a straight shoulder on the natural shoulder line. They have flapped pockets and double vents. For this article we’ll just look at the charcoal rope stripe suit.
The shirt Tanner wears with this suit is a fine grey and white stripe. Grey shirts aren’t nearly as popular as blue and white, or even cream, but they’re a classically-stylish option in lighter tints. It has a small spread collar and rounded button cuffs. Tanner adds colour to his outfit with the tie and pocket square. The tie is a regimental stripe in navy and alternating red and maroon. It’s very similar to the well-known Brigade of Guards tie, but the tie only has one shade of red. Can anyone identify this tie? He ties it in a four-in-hand knot, and he matches a navy silk pocket square to the navy in the tie.
Buttoned at the bottom, not the same as in the photo above
There’s a continuity error in the way Tanner buttons his suit jacket. In some shots he buttons the jacket the conventional way, with only the middle row fastened. In other shots he has only the bottom row fastened. Both are legitimate ways to fasten a double-breasted jacket, but the stiffer canvas on this jacket means the lapel doesn’t roll over the middle button so well when only the bottom is fastened. There are also a couple of fit problems with this outfit. The back of the coat doesn’t fit so well over the shoulder blades and the shirt sleeves are too short—but the jacket sleeves look fine. But overall it’s a very tasteful outfit and it commands the authority necessary for his position during M’s leave.
Fashion in the early 1980s rebelled against the excess of the 1970s style, and that excess would take only a few years to return to fashion. In the early 80s we see a number of well-dressed men in the Bond series, and Topol’s Columbo in For Your Eyes Only is one of them. The navy double-breasted blazer is made by tailor Robbie Stanford, who was two doors down from Anthony Sinclair at 27 Conduit St. The blazer has a typical English cut, with straight shoulders and roped sleeveheads. On the front there are four buttons with two to button, the traditional English arrangement minus the top two vestigial buttons. Those buttons are done away with here to make room for a patch breast pocket. The two hip pockets are also open patch pockets. The blazer has swelled edges, slightly narrow peak lapels, double vents and two-button cuffs. The buttons are brass with an anchor motif.
Columbo’s cream shirt is likely made by Frank Foster. It has a spread collar and square-cut, 2-button cuffs, and the buttons are a contrasting smoked mother of pearl. The cream gaberdine trousers have a flat front and frogmouth pockets. He wears the trousers with a white belt. Columbo’s outfit is great for warm weather, especially by the water—or on the water where Columbo wears his.
The blazer was sold at Christie’s in South Kensington on 12 December 2001 for £447.
Marc Ange Draco (Gabriele Ferzetti), the father of the bride, wears the most traditional version of black lounge at James and Tracy Bond’s wedding. Draco’s button one lounge coat has notched lapels, flapped pockets, three-button cuffs and no vents. The shoulders are straight with roped sleeveheads. The waistcoat matches the jacket in black and has six buttons with five to button. The trousers are in the traditional cashmere stripe pattern, cut with a flat front and most likely worn with braces.
M wears a less formal ensemble with light grey trousers and a cream shirt, and without a waistcoat
Draco’s white shirt has a small spread collar with mitred barrel cuffs. Whilst a striped tie isn’t the traditional choice for a wedding, the colour scheme is right with black, silver, white and pink and is perfect for the occasion. The stripes go in the British direction, from lower on the right-hand side to higher on the left-hand side. The shoes are black, and most likely they are cap-toe oxfords. With the rest of the wedding party, Draco wears a white carnation in his lapel.
Felix Leiter, James Bond’s American counterpart, has never been as cool as when he was first portrayed by Jack Lord in Dr. No. Lord’s successor Cec Linder plays Leiter as a stodgier character, dressed in Ivy League style, whilst Lord dresses younger and more fashionably. Since it’s only 1962, the suit has a lot in common with 1950s styles. The suit is made in beige tropical wool. The button three jacket has padded shoulders with roped sleeveheads, and a relaxed cut through the body with front darts. The back has short double vents—a popular 1960s style—that are no deeper than 6 inches and are more for style than for function. The hip pockets are welted like the typical breast pocket, another style that was more commonly seen in the ’60s. The lapels are a little on the narrow side, with tiny notches. The cuffs have three buttons, spaced out, and the suit’s buttons are light brown horn. The suit trousers have a flat front, cross pockets, side adjusters and turn-ups.
Leiter’s white shirt has a spread collar, double cuffs and a front placket. The tie is solid dark brown. His shoes are brown moccasins. His most well-known accessory is his pair of cat-eye sunglasses, which have since become primarily worn by women. Nevertheless, Felix Leiter looks hipper than Bond with his sunglasses, which he places in his outer breast pocket when he removes them. No Felix Leiter other than Jack Lord comes close to having a competing screen presence with Bond, and his cool look has a large part to do with it.
To contrast Daniel Craig’s fashion-forward suits, Ralph Fiennes’ government official Gareth Mallory in Skyfall dresses in timeless Savile Row style. It’s more like Bond’s usual look than what Daniel Craig wears in Skyfall, similar to Daniel Craig’s Brioni three-piece suit in Casino Royale. The biggest difference is that Mallory wears braces with his suits, something Bond never has done. Timothy Everest, one of the leaders of Savile Row’s New Bespoke Movement, tailored Ralph Fiennes’ suits for Skyfall. As one would expect from a Savile Row establishment, even a modern one, the suits are well-tailored. Though the often-daring Everest isn’t so adventurous with Fiennes’ suits, the suits do not look old-fashioned either. Whilst three-piece suits—as well as the double-breasted suit Fiennes wears later in the film—stand for old-fashioned values, three-piece have seen a recent rise in popularity. Fiennes may not look nearly as fashionable as Daniel Craig, but he doesn’t quite look as old and stodgy as he perhaps was meant to look either.
This suit is navy with a mid blue ropestripe and has a button two jacket in a modern Savile Row cut. Like the traditional Savile Row jacket this one has straight, padded shoulders with roped sleeveheads. But on the other hand, the jacket is cut fairly lean in the chest and does not look like a suit of armour. The jacket has slanted pockets with a ticket pocket, four-button cuffs and a single vent. The waistcoat has six buttons with five to button. The trousers have a flat front, a high rise to the waist and are worn with braces. If they wanted Mallory to look more old-fashioned he could have been wearing double-forward-pleat trousers like Sean Connery’s Bond wore. The suit’s buttons are black horn.
With this navy suit Fiennes wears a classic Jermyn Street-style shirt in light blue end-on-end with a spread collar, placket front and double cuffs. His navy tie has large white dots with a small navy dot in the center, and it appears to be tied in a Half Windsor knot. His shoes are black cap-toe oxfords.