Roger Moore wears a warm outfit for climbing up to St. Cyril’s Monastery in For Your Eyes Only. He wear a brown hooded monk’s robe but removes it to reveal a dark blue quilted gilet. The gilet has a zip front and is between waist and hip length. There are navy suede patches on the front of each shoulder. The gilet has two rounded pockets in the middle of the chest that are accessed from either side of the zip, two lower patch pockets and game pouch at the bottom of the back. Barbour makes similar gilets, but this one could have come from any number of retailers.
Under the gilet, Moore wears a chunky wool jumper in a two-tone effect light and dark grey. It has a mock polo neck collar with a rather large opening, since it can be folded down far enough that a shirt collar can stick up over it. The jumper appears to be very warm, though chunky knits aren’t so popular today. The dark blue shirt underneath is looks like one of Frank Foster’s shirts. It has the same large spread collar that all of Roger Moore’s shirts in the 1980s have. The shirt’s colour is close to the gilet’s slightly darker blue.
The shirt and gilet aren’t so dark that they clash with the black corduroy trousers. The trousers have a straight leg and plain hems. The lace-up climbing shoes are medium blue with black soles.
Corduroys and climbing shoes
After a dive in For Your Eyes Only, Bond takes another unexpected dive in a dark blue, fitted, V-neck T-shirt and stone (light beige) cotton trousers. We had never before seen Bond in a T-shirt, but the reason why he’s wearing one here is because he was probably already wearing it under his yellow diving suit. The flat-front trousers have slanted side pockets and a button-through rear pocket on the right. The trousers have belt loops but no belt in them. Bond starts off the scene wearing blue espadrilles, but he’s barefoot after he is pulled into the water.
Fashion in the early 1980s rebelled against the excess of the 1970s style, and that excess would take only a few years to return to fashion. In the early 80s we see a number of well-dressed men in the Bond series, and Topol’s Columbo in For Your Eyes Only is one of them. The navy double-breasted blazer is made by tailor Robbie Stanford, who was two doors down from Anthony Sinclair at 27 Conduit St. The blazer has a typical English cut, with straight shoulders and roped sleeveheads. On the front there are four buttons with two to button, the traditional English arrangement minus the top two vestigial buttons. Those buttons are done away with here to make room for a patch breast pocket. The two hip pockets are also open patch pockets. The blazer has swelled edges, slightly narrow peak lapels, double vents and two-button cuffs. The buttons are brass with an anchor motif.
Columbo’s cream shirt is likely made by Frank Foster. It has a spread collar and square-cut, 2-button cuffs, and the buttons are a contrasting smoked mother of pearl. The cream gaberdine trousers have a flat front and frogmouth pockets. He wears the trousers with a white belt. Columbo’s outfit is great for warm weather, especially by the water—or on the water where Columbo wears his.
The blazer was sold at Christie’s in South Kensington on 12 December 2001 for £447.
Roger Moore wearing a navy bengal stripe shirt with a white collar and cuffs in For Your Eyes Only.
In the United States, the contrasting white collar and cuffs style has been all but tarnished by the 1987 film Wall Street. But it’s a classic style that has been around a very long time. It goes back to the days when collars were stiff and detachable, and men would pair white collars with a body of any colour. Now the collars come soft and attached. Some retailers call a shirt with a white collar a “Winchester” shirt—presumably named after the city in England, not the rifle—but I have not found an historical use of this term and believe it’s just a modern marketing term.
Bond wears shirts with a white collar and cuffs in For Your Eyes Only and A View to a Kill, made by Frank Foster. Though the style is best worn with double cuffs, Bond wears his with button cuffs. Likewise, a spread collar is the best collar to be in white, though point collars can work well too. White collars and cuffs are most stylishly paired with a body that includes white. Bond’s shirts have white in the form of bengal stripes, though it’s also common to see a white collar on an end-on-end shirt. Collars and cuffs typically wear out before the body of a shirt wears out, and the collar and cuffs of almost any dressier shirt can be replaced with white since it’s typically impossible to find the original cloth for replacements. And even if the original cloth is obtainable it’s not going to match a shirt that has been washed many times. Checks don’t mate so well with white collars because of the difference in formality and purpose. White collars are a rather dressy style and are excellent for morning dress. For everyday wear they work best with a suit or a dressier blazer but are best avoided wearing with other sports coats and without a coat or tie. And because of their daywear tradition they are best worn during the day.
Roger Moore wearing a pink bengal stripe shirt with a white collar and cuffs in A View to a Kill.
Though Bond only wears shirts with a white collar and cuffs in two films, Roger Moore wears them in his personal life, as well as in some earlier films and television, like in Street People and The Persuaders. In The Man Who Haunted Himself he wears a plain white detachable collar with a white self-stripe shirt. Pierce Brosnan occasionally wears shirts with a white collar—but not white cuffs—in Remington Steele, mostly with suits but occasionally with blazers.
Pierce Brosnan wearing a blue (probably end-on-end) shirt with a pinned white collar in the 1982 episode of Remington Steele titled “You’re Steele the One for Me”.
Bond arrives in Cortina d’Ampezzo in For Your Eyes Only wearing a very warm shearling blouson, similar to a flight jacket. The outside is light brown suede sheepskin and the inside is brown lambswool, which shows when the collar is folded over. The jacket has a zip front, two pockets on front, and brown ribbed cuffs and hem. Underneath the blouson Bond wears a bronze cashmere polo neck jumper with ribbed cuffs and a ribbed hem. His trousers are fawn cavalry twill with a flat front and a straight leg.
In For Your Eyes Only, Bond briefly wears a pale yellow short-sleeve shirt made by Frank Foster. Pale yellow is a classic summer colour that looks great in the sun. The shirt has a large spread collar, cuffed short sleeves, a darted back, a placket with Foster’s unique stitching closer to the centre, and an open breast pocket with cut corners. The buttons are, of course, mother of pearl. The shirt’s material is difficult to identify. At first glance the shirt looks like a fine interlock knit cotton, but because of the shirt’s construction it’s more likely to be a semi-sheer woven fabric. And the material is probably at least part polyester since it does not crease at all, but the openness means it would wear cool.
The stone-coloured, flat-front trousers are made either of cotton or a cotton-linen blend. Bond’s surcingle belt is off-white with black leather fittings and a brass buckle. The off-white fabric has large, length-wise ribs. In an off moment for Bond (and especially Roger Moore), his gig line is a failure. The placket, belt buckle and fly do not line up and look sloppy, causing his shirt to rumple.
In For Your Eyes Only, Bond goes skiing in Cortina d’Ampezzo dressed in Bogner Skiwear. The Bogner clothing brand was started by skiier Willy Bogner, Sr., whose son Willy Bogner, Jr. took over the company after his death in 1977. Bogner, Jr., who is also an accomplished skiier, was the cameraman who shot the complex ski sequences in For Your Eyes Only and in other Bond films. “B” logo of the zip fasteners are shown in many close-up shots to promote the brand. Not only does Bond wear Bogner clothes but so do some of the bad guys. Bogner’s skiwear is well-made and timeless.
Bond’s Bogner light blue, zip-front ski jacket is hip-length and worn with a D-ring belt. There are three pockets: one horizontally across the chest on the left size, and two slash pockets at the hips, all closing with zip fasteners. The cuffs are elasticised. The back is one piece and darted at each shoulder. Apart from the “B” zip fastensers, there is an additional Bogner logo on the upper left sleeve that spells out the name under a hemicycle.
Under the jacket Bond wears two knit tops. The first is a navy V-neck jumper with a white stripe across the chest and two white stripes on each sleeve. Under that Bond wears a thinner white polo neck jumper. Bond’s Bogner navy ski trousers have a narrow leg with a zip-fastening at the bottom. The zip is on the outside of the leg and a Bogner hemicycle logo is on the inside. The trousers are worn over the dark and light blue two-tone boots, which have a tan sole. The navy leather gloves are also by Bogner and close with a “B” zip fastener. Bond wears a second, insulating pair of gloves under the leather gloves. A white wool tuque, or ski hat, with navy stripes tops off the outfit in the skiing scenes.
A lot including the jacket, polo neck and V-neck jumpers, gloves and hat was auctioned at Christie’s in South Kensington on 12 December 2011 for £2,585. The white polo neck jumper is listed as having a zip at the neck, which means that it wasn’t the same one as used in the film.
For his visit to the Minister of Defence’s office and Q-Branch in For Your Eyes Only, Bond wears a mid-grey flannel 2-piece suit. This is a typical Douglas Hayward suit, cut with soft, natural shoulders, roped sleeveheads, a low button stance and a high gorge. This suit jacket has a 2-button front with deep double vents, flapped pockets and 3-button cuffs.
The suit trousers have a flat front with frogmouth pockets, are cut with a straight leg, and are worn with a black belt. The trousers have a medium rise, which corresponds with the suit jacket’s lower button stance. Bond’s cream poplin shirt by Frank Foster has a spread collar, 2-button mitred cuffs, a placket front and a darted back.
For Your Eyes Only brought Bond back to his origins after the over-the-top Moonraker. Along with the more traditional suits, here Moore wears a grenadine tie like the ones Connery so often wore. Whilst Connery always wore dark grenadine ties, this one is mid grey to match the suit. This is the only grenadine tie that Bond has worn since Connery played Bond.