Category Archives: The Man with the Golden Gun

The Olive Suit

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Olive-Suit-2

In The Man with the Golden Gun, Roger Moore wears a more adventurous wardrobe than he did in Live and Let Die. For one of the furthest suits from what Sean Connery had established as the classic Bond look, Moore wears a dark olive, double-breasted suit cut by Cyril Castle. The suit has very closely-spaced lighter pinstripes with wider-spaced red chalkstripes. The jacket has six buttons on the front with two to button, double vents, slightly slanted pockets with flaps, and flared link-button cuffs. The trousers have a darted front and flared leg.

Olive-Suit

The shirt is a white and gold bengal stripe in a twill weave, made by Frank Foster. The shirt has a spread collar, placket front and and two-button cocktail cuffs. The tie is light olive shantung silk, tied in a four-in-hand knot. Even though the outfit is in all earth tones, Moore wears black shoes. But because this suit is worn after dark, black shoes are appropriate, and they don’t clash when not in daylight.

Rolex

Bond’s Rolex Submariner with a close-up of the striped suit and shirt cloths

Double-Breasted White Dinner Jacket

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Roger Moore wears his first of three white dinner jackets in The Man with the Golden Gun. And this dinner jacket is very close to being white, though it’s still not quite there. And fitting for the Asian setting, this dinner jacket is made from a slubby but luxurious dupioni silk. The cut is Cyril Castle’s classic double-breasted 6 button with 2 to button and has a narrower wrap. The shoulders narrow and gently padded. The jacket has double vents and the pockets are slanted and jetted. The cuffs button 1 with a turnback detail and don’t have the link button feature that Roger Moore wears on his other suits in the film. The black trousers are flared with a flat front and a black satin stripe down each leg.

Instead of the usual white shirt, Moore wears a cream dress shirt by Frank Foster. It’s unclear whether he is wearing that colour shirt to make a fashion statement, or simply because it flatters his complexion better than a stark white. The voile shirt has a pleated front with standard mother of pearl buttons and 2-button cocktail cuffs. Moore wears a wide, black satin bow tie to match the wide lapels. Though the bow tie looks dated, wide lapels on a double-breasted jacket don’t so much since they are typically wider than single-breasted lapels anyway. Moore’s dress shoes are black patent slip-ons with a strap and clasp detail.

Casual in Cream

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In The Man with the Golden Gun, Bond infiltrates Hai-Fat’s estate posing as Scaramanga, wearing an outfit of all cream. Scaramanga was known for dressing in white, and Bond follows similarly in an outfit of a cream shirt and cream trousers. The shirt is made from cotton voile with a double-layer front so it’s not so translucent and so it doesn’t give away Bond’s “superfluous papilla” before he removes his shirt. It has 5 buttons down the front, and the hem is straight and short with button tabs on the sides to cinch the waist.  The shirt is cut rather straight but the back is darted for a neater fit on Moore’s body. The sleeves have turned-up cuffs with an extended button tab to secure the cuff. The shirt’s large collar is a very unique one, with a construction similar to a camp collar though it looks more like a regular collar. It stands up in front like a typical point collar but doesn’t have a separate collar band; it just folds over. There is no collar band. Frank Foster most likely made this shirt.

The cream tropical worsted trousers have a flat front, a slightly flared leg and no side pockets but 2 rear pockets. Moore wears cream socks to match his trousers, a brown exotic skin belt and dark brown Gucci horse-bit slip-ons.

Scaramanga: The White Suit

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“He usually wears a white linen suit, black tie, and jewellery, all gold.” Miss Anders described Scaramanga’s dress to Bond after he twisted her arm. It’s not actually a pure white, but off white. The jacket has a 3-button front, a single vent, slanted hip pockets but no breast pocket, and 3-button cuffs. The collar is essentially a camp collar, even though it’s a term usually used for shirts. This type of collar was commonly found on leisure suits in the 1970s. Like typical leisure suits, this is also made of polyester, not linen. It is trimmed with mother-of-pearl-effect buttons and a cream satin lining. This jacket was auctioned at Bonhams in Knightsbridge on 6 March 2007 and sold for £5,520.

The cream trousers were also sold at Bonhams, two years later on 16 June 2009 and sold for £480. According to the auction these trousers are wool (with a waffle texture), and since they are not the same material as the jacket the outfit is not actually a suit. The trousers have a narrow leg, darted front, belt loops (with a belt buckle keeper), a hook closure and plain bottoms. The jacket and the trousers were made by costumiers Bermans & Nathans.

Scaramanga’s cream shirt has a moderate spread collar and double cuffs, with gold cuff links of course. The left cuff link becomes the trigger for the golden gun. Scaramanga makes no secret of his admiration for James Bond, and he even has an element of Bond’s dress in his own: the black silk knit tie. It’s the tie of the literary Bond, and Roger Moore wears one off of Scaramanga’s 007 mannequin in the end of the film. Scaramanga completes his outfit with white shoes.

The Safari Shirt-Jacket

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Roger Moore is well known for his casual safari clothing. I’ll never understand why some people insist on comparing these clothes to leisure suits when they are rooted in traditional safari clothes. They are also quite appropriate for the hot weather in Thailand. The sage green linen (or linen and cotton blend) safari shirt-jacket is a cross between a shirt and a jacket. It is constructed like a shirt without a lining or interfacings, but it is worn out like a jacket and has many features are more often found on jackets than shirts. It has a 4-button front with a camp collar, a belted back and long side vents. It has traditional safari jacket features such as epaulette straps and box-pleat patch pockets with flaps. The buttons are mother of pearl. Moore wears the sleeves rolled up to just below the elbow. This piece was made by Moore’s shirtmaker, Frank Foster.

The beige trousers have a flat front with a flared leg. The material may be tropical wool, linen, silk, or some combination of the three. Bond’s ribbed socks match the trousers. His shoes are brown low-vamp, tassel slip-ons.

The Plaid Sports Coat

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The plaid sports coat that Roger Moore wore in The Man with the Golden Gun seems to be a popular one. It is a plaid made from worsted wool or a silk blend in black, white and red. It’s woven in an open plain weave and the pattern is a little different from a typical glen plaid. Each section of the pattern mirrors itself. See the illustration below for the structure of the pattern:


The 2-button sports coat has a classic English cut with a full chest and narrow waist, and the shoulders are narrow and soft with roped sleeveheads. It has slanted flap pockets, deep double vents and link-button cuffs.


The dark charcoal trousers and ecru shirt match the suit that Bond later changes into, planned that way to make Bond’s change of clothing easier and more believable. Click here to see what Bond wears later. The trousers look almost black, but when compared to Nick Nack’s black coat you can see the difference. The trousers have no side pockets and two rear button-through pockets. The leg is tapered to the knee and flares out to the hem. Since the belt buckle has a “G” motif, I would guess it’s from Gucci.


The ecru poplin shirt from Frank Foster has a spread collar, placket front and 2-button turnback cuffs. See the image below for a look at Frank Foster’s 2-button turnback cuff design. Compared to Turnbull & Asser’s turnback cuffs, Foster’s are not as rounded and the buttons are spaced farther apart. Bond wears a textured black tie, though it is neither a knit nor a grenadine tie.

Scaramanga’s Dressing Gown

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Most of the villains in the Bond films have expensive tastes, and Bond occasionally enjoys borrowing their things: their vehicles, their champagne, their women, and their clothing. At the end of The Man With The Golden Gun, Bond escapes from Scaramanga’s Island in his junk and puts on Scaramanga’s luxurious black silk dressing gown. It’s a basic dressing gown with a shawl collar and a belt. It is lined in a white fabric, probably also silk. Now that Scaramanga is dead, he won’t mind Bond wearing his clothes, though I’m not sure I would care to wear another man’s dressing gown. Hopefully it’s clean!

Solid Silk Ties: Floats, Satin and Shantung

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Whereas Sean Connery and George Lazenby wore solid grenadine and knit ties, Roger Moore often wore solid ties in other weaves. In The Man with the Golden Gun (below), Roger Moore wears a red tie with a pebbled effect, that may be created by floated yarns to give the tie texture. Turnbull & Asser’s “Lace” ties are a great example of a textured pattern.


The satin silk tie is the shiniest tie and is most appropriately worn in the evening or for more formal occasions. The satin weave has an even shine due to a high number of floats. The light blue satin tie below is also from The Man with the Golden Gun.


The last tie of this entry is the shantung silk tie. Shantung silk is woven in a plain weave and has a ribbed and slubby yet very shiny surface. It’s very unique and can be worn for a variety of occasions. The blue shantung silk tie below is from The Spy Who Loved Me.


Roger Moore ties his ties with a four-in-hand or double four-in-hand knot, characterised by its asymmetrical shape.