Though Dominic Cooper who plays Ian Fleming in the recent miniseries doesn’t look anything like Fleming, Charles Dance does. Dance has a small role—and his first screen film role—as one of Emile Leopold Locque’s henchmen in For Your Eyes Only, but he stars as Ian Fleming in a 1989 television movie called Goldeneye. Though Ian Fleming is typically seen in photos wearing a bow tie, I’ve never seen a photo of him in black tie. In Goldeneye, Fleming wears a black double-breasted dinner suit in a scene that takes place during the years of World War II.
The dinner jacket has straight military-like shoulders with roped sleeveheads, peaked lapels and, as is traditional on a dinner jacket, no vent. However, the picture quality isn’t good enough to tell how many buttons are on the dinner jacket. Ian Fleming was a fan of double-breasted suits, and he dressed Hugo Drax in a double-breasted suit similar to one of his own with “turnback”—or gauntlet—cuffs. It’s very likely that the real Fleming would have owned a double-breasted dinner jacket. Fleming preferred to dress in a rather relaxed manner, and the double-breasted dinner jacket is just slightly less formal than the single-breasted dinner jacket. Plus it allows him to forego a waist-covering in a more legitimate way than Sean Connery does in his Bond films.
The picture quality isn’t good enough to tell if the dinner suit’s trousers have pleats, but based on the silhouette they most likely have double forward pleats. That was the standard style that English tailors made at the time. Narrow black braces hold up the trousers. Not much had changed in English tailoring from the time this takes place during World War II to the late 1980s when Goldeneye was made, and the biggest difference came with lighter-weight cloths. This dinner suit doesn’t look as heavy as one that would have been worn in Ian Fleming’s time, but otherwise it’s fairly convincing.
Fleming’s white dress shirt has a marcella bib, and though marcella-front shirts are ordinarily without a placket—like Daniel Craig’s dress shirt in Skyfall—for a cleaner, dressier look, this shirt has a raised placket that takes three black onyx studs and has quarter-inch stitching. The spread collar and double cuffs are made in cotton marcella as well, and they have quarter-inch stitching. The cufflinks match the studs. The shirt has shoulder pleats in the back. The black bow tie is a classic thistle shape, and he wears a white puffed silk handkerchief in his breast pocket. The shirt and bow tie are classic and, like the dinner suit, look just as good now as they did in 1989 or during World War II.
And if you’ve forgotten who Charles Dance plays in For Your Eyes Only, to the right is a picture of his character, Claus.