Leather Jacket in Combat

Posted on 10 February 2013 by Matt Spaiser

In Tomorrow Never Dies Bond dresses warmly in a brown leather coat and two jumpers for the snowy Russian border. The coat is car coat length with a zip front and belted waist. The two lower patch pockets have an inverted box pleat and a flap. There is a welted slash pocket on either side of the chest, and sleeves have button-straps. Under the jacket Bond wears a dark blue, heavy wool, mock neck jumper with a zip to the neck. And under that he wears a thinner black, ribbed wool polo neck jumper. The olive trousers have cargo pockets on the sides of the upper thighs. Bond also wears black, cashmere-lined leather gloves and black boots.

Bonhams in Knightsbridge put two of the brown leather coats up for auction on 6 March 2007, but neither coat sold. Of the two lots the first also contained the black polo neck jumper, the green combat trousers and a black ski jumper. The listing follows:

A leather jacket, black polo neck sweater, a black ski jumper and green combat trousers, the brown leather ¾ length jacket, with black acetate lining, labelled inside “Angels & Bermans, The Costumiers to the Entertainment Industry”, inscribed in an unknown hand in blue ink “1997 TOMORROW NEVER DIES PIERCE BROSNAN” with further material detail label, the black ski jumper of elasticated cotton with zip to neck, the black polo neck of pure wool, with label inside “1997 TOMORROW NEVER DIES PIERCE BROSNAN“, the khaki military style combat trousers, with military label to inside bearing various inscriptions

The black ski jumper in the lot was not used in film, and the blue jumper from the film was not part of this lot. The coats appear to be identical in both lots except the coat in the larger lot is missing the belt and the coat sold alone is described as having a lining in “heavy cotton.” Both lots were put up for auction again on 16 June 2009. The first lot including the coat, two jumpers and trousers sold for £6,000 and the second lot with just the coat sold for £1,320.

Lindy Hemming: Blue and Brown for Brosnan

Posted on 14 December 2012 by Matt Spaiser

How much should a man match his clothing for the day? Sean Connery’s James Bond wardrobe follows a simple system: navy ties with navy suits, navy or black ties with grey suits, and brown ties with brown suits. Shirts are white, light blue and cream. And the suitings are simple, in blue or grey with the occasional brown. The literary Bond has an even simpler system of dressing, which always matched a black knitted tie with a navy suit.

Lindy Hemming, the costume designer on all four of Pierce Brosnan’s Bond films, developed a system for dressing Brosnan, one with very carefully planned outfits that coordinate in both obvious and subtle ways. Hemming often used limited colour palates but combined the colours in unique ways. She incorporated the not-so-common combination of blue and brown into many of the outfits, and we saw that done in a few different ways. In one method she matches a charcoal suit with a navy and brown tie. We first saw that in Tomorrow Never Dies with the two-piece suit in Hamburg (above left). The diamond-pattern tie also picks up the light blue in Brosnan’s shirt. In the opening scene of The World is Not Enough, we see the blue and brown tie come back in a chevron pattern with the charcoal suit (above right). That suit appears to be solid charcoal but it actually has blue and brown threads in it, which is the reasoning for the tie’s colour. Logically, the suit in Tomorrow Never Dies would also have blue and brown threads.

The chevron tie from the opening scene of The World is Not Enough returns later in the film with what appears to be a medium grey suit. But upon a closer look, that suit is made up of blue and light brown yarns (above right). When those two colours in the right tones—opposites—are combined, they balance each other and the overall result looks grey. With this suit later in the film, Brosnan wears a blue tie with light brown ticks, also pulling out the colours in the suit. A white shirt helps to neutralise the suit’s colour, since if he wore a blue or cream shirt, one of the suit’s other colours would have been more noticeable.

Similar to the light blue and brown suit in The World is Not Enough, Brosnan wears a blue and sand Prince of Wales check suit (above left) for his visit to the office in GoldenEye. The blue and sand colours again balance each other and the suit looks almost grey. Here the tie is blue and light brown, to emphasize the two dominant colours in the suit. Though the tie is more blue, though the ivory shirt balances that out with more warmth. And the blue pocket handkerchief coordinates with both the suit and tie.

One suit we see in all four of Brosnan’s is the semi-solid (usually Birdseye) navy suit, which tones the navy down with a white. Hemming probably finds that Brosnan looks better in a muted navy rather than a rich navy (which looks great on someone like Roger Moore), and she accessorises those suit in two different manners. In GoldenEye (above left) and Tomorrow Never Dies (above middle), those suits are worn with ivory shirts. In GoldenEye the tie is navy, gold and cream, whilst the tie in Tomorrow Never Dies is a similar combination of navy and bronze. And there he goes a step further by matching the bronze in his tie with a light brown overcoat. In Die Another Day (above right), Brosnan wears a tie of navy and gold squares with his navy pinhead suit in a brief plane scene. So again, we see that combination of blue and brown tones.

Before Brosnan, James Bond had never matched his clothes so carefully. But like Connery’s Bond wardrobe, we see consistency throughout Brosnan’s Bond films. As a graphic designer I have a great appreciation for the Lindy Hemming’s colour matching, though it makes Bond look like he’s trying too hard. Should James Bond—or any man—match his clothes so carefully?

The Roman/Military/Equestrian Shoulder

Posted on 22 April 2012 by Matt Spaiser

Though not all the same, the Roman shoulder, military shoulder and equestrian shoulder are all strongly structured shoulders with a straight line and more generous padding. Though the shoulders may be built up, they aren’t necessarily stiff. The width and amount of padding vary depending on the tailor and depending on the current trends. Characterised by a clean, strong silhouette, the Roman style has its origins in the military and equestrian style on Savile Row. H. Huntsman is a good example of a Savile Row tailor who makes an equestrian style. Roger Moore, Timothy Dalton, Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig have all worn this style in the Bond films.

Most of Roger Moore’s suits in The Spy Who Loved Me and Moonraker come from Angelo Roma. These suits have narrow, straight shoulders with roped sleeveheads.

Timothy Dalton wears suits in Licence to Kill with the straight, oversized shoulders that were popular at the time. Though his suit is more characteristic of something from a Milan fashion house, the idea of a straight, built-up shoulder is the same.

Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig have both worn suits from Brioni, the most famous Roman tailor. Brioni’s shoulders are very similar to what Angelo made for Roger Moore, though they tend to be wider. When Brosnan started the role in 1995, Brioni’s shoulders were wider and more built up, following the 1990s trends, and by The World is Not Enough had a more classic look (see the top image).

A Dinner Suit Back in Time

Posted on 30 December 2011 by Matt Spaiser

For Tomorrow Never Dies, costume designer Lindy Hemming looked to the 1930s for inspiration in designing Pierce Brosnan’s Brioni dinner suit. The 1930s saw many innovations in black tie by the Prince of Wales that continue to this day, such as midnight blue dinner suits and turn-down collar-shirts. Bond’s 1-button dinner jacket is midnight blue barathea wool with midnight grosgrain-faced pointed lapels. Covered buttons match grosgrain lapels. Slightly wider lapels and Brioni’s typical strong shoulder are consistent with the 1930′s look. The dinner jacket has jetted pockets, 4-button cuffs and no vents at the back.

The trousers have a grosgrain stripe down the side of each leg and double reverse pleats, a modern touch as opposed to the more traditional forward pleats that would more likely have been found on a dinner suit in the 1930s. I consider the reverse pleats to be the only downside to this outfit. The most unique 1930′s element is the black 5-button, shawl lapel, double-breasted waistcoat. Even then this was not a popular style. The most common double-breasted waistcoat for evening wear has 4, or occasionally 6, buttons. The five buttons here are placed in a V-formation, and the buttons come out to be a little higher than the standard evening waistcoat yet still much lower than a waistcoat for daytime. The waistcoat is made in the same cloth as the rest of the dinner suit, with grosgrain lapels as well.

The Turnbull & Asser dress shirt is a more formal variation than Bond had ever worn before. Raising the formality is a marcella bib front without a placket and mother of pearl studs. This style front comes from the white tie shirt and was the style originally worn with black tie. Traditionally, mother of pearl studs were only worn for white tie and black onyx studs were worn with black tie, though what Bond wears is not incorrect. In the 1930s people started wearing shirts with attached turn-down collars and pleated fronts with black tie, but wing collars and marcella bibs were still popular with black tie. Here Bond pairs the less formal spread collar with the more formal marcella bib. The collar and double cuffs are also marcella. The body and sleeves of the dress shirt are made of a thin cotton poplin and the back of the shirt is cut with side pleats. The marcella front and turndown collar is a popular combination and more acceptable than the reverse: a wing collar with a pleated front. The midnight bow tie is a wide butterfly shape that balances the wide lapels. Bond’s shoes are black oxfords.

Whilst the studs and waistcoat are not particularly Bondian elements, and probably not things that Ian Fleming would consider, this is one of the most unique and interesting—but still classic and elegant—black tie ensembles of the series.

Hamburg Overcoat

Posted on 25 November 2011 by Matt Spaiser

Bond’s choice of bronze and blue tie made sense after he donned a vicuna-coloured overcoat over his blue birdseye suit for his arrival in Hamburg, Germany. The overcoat is more than just an afterthought. Typically one doesn’t coordinate his overcoat with the tie, but costume designer Lindy Hemming saw the overcoat as an integral part of the outfit. The full-length cashmere coat is tailored by Brioni. The coat has a 6-button double-breasted front with 2 to button. The lapels are peaked with a buttonhole in each, the pockets are straight with flaps, and the cuffs have 4 buttons.

Navy Birdseye in London

Posted on 22 November 2011 by Matt Spaiser

The navy birdseye suit is favourite of costume designer Lindy Hemming to dress on Pierce Brosnan. She put Brosnan in a navy birdseye suit in GoldenEye and designs an almost identical Brioni suit for Tomorrow Never Dies. This one is a three-piece suit with a 3-button jacket, 5-button waistcoat and double-reverse-pleat trousers. The jacket is cut with straight shoulders, roped sleeveheads, a less suppressed waist and a lowered button stance. It has double vents, slanted pockets with a ticket pocket and 4-button cuffs. Brosnan leaves the bottom button of his 5-button waistcoat open. The trousers have double reverse pleats and turn-ups.

The shirt and tie are made by Turnbull & Asser. The shirt is cream royal oxford and has a moderate spread collar and double cuffs. The tie is bronze floating ribs with blue squares on alternating ribs. Brosnan’s shoes are black brogues. The next entry will be on the cashmere overcoat Brosnan wears over this suit.

The shirt and tie were sold at auction at Bonhams in Knightsbridge on 16 June 2009 for £1,320, in a lot including other items.

Royal Navy Commander’s Dress Uniform

Posted on 29 August 2011 by Matt Spaiser

Sean Connery in You Only Live Twice

The Blue No. 1 dress seen here is the best uniform and worn on ceremonial occasions. Bond wears this officer’s uniform for briefings in You Only Live Twice, The Spy Who Loved Me and Tomorrow Never Dies. The colour of the wool is a true navy, which almost looks black. The jacket is an 8-button double breasted with 4 to button, and the gilt buttons have a crown and anchor motif. The double-breasted lapels have a buttonhole in each peak. The jacket has jetted pockets, short double vents, and the rank insignia of commander on the sleeve, consisting of three rings of gold braid with the executive curl in the upper braid. The style of the trousers can vary, but often they are made with traditional forward pleats. They may have side adjusters, a self-belt or some other method of holding them up.

Roger Moore with Desmond Llewelyn in The Spy Who Loved Me

Officers’ dress uniforms are typically made by bespoke tailors who specialize in military cuts. A military cut has strong, padded shoulders (often with roped sleeveheads), a clean chest and a long skirt. Connery and Moore may have had their uniforms made by their tailors Anthony Sinclair and Cyril Castle, respectively. However, it’s also possible that costumiers Bermans & Nathans made the uniforms. Bermans & Nathans made other naval wear for Moore in The Spy Who Loved Me. Brioni may have made Brosnan’s uniform, as it has a cut reminiscent of Brioni’s tailoring, but it’s still a possibility that costumiers Angels & Bermans made it.

Pierce Brosnan with Joe Don Baker in Tomorrow Never Dies

A peaked cap with a white crown accompanies the uniform. Connery’s white shirt has a point collar and double cuffs and Brosnan’s shirt has a spread collar and single cuffs. Moore’s shirt has a point collar (with a large amount of tie space) but his jacket sleeves are too long and the shirt cuffs are not seen. They wear solid dark navy ties in a four-in-hand knot. The shoes are shined black leather, most likely oxfords.

The Tomorrow Never Dies Charcoal Suit

Posted on 17 December 2010 by Matt Spaiser

Bond wears a small number of suits in Tomorrow Never Dies, only a blue, a grey, and a naval commander’s uniform. 30 years prior to this movie in 1967, Sean Connery wore the same in You Only Live Twice. For now we will be looking at the charcoal grey Brioni suit worn in the Hamburg scenes. The suit jacket has a 3-button front, and the button stance has been lowered an inch for a more relaxed look. Also contributing to the relaxed look is a less suppressed waist. On the other hand, the shoulders are strongly padded with roping at the sleeve head.

Costume designer Lindy Hemming commented on the film’s wardrobe: “The new Brioni clothing that Mr. Brosnan wears in Tomorrow Never Dies establishes the James Bond character as a totally modern man of international taste, dressed in classic but contemporary proportions.”

The jacket is Anglicised with flapped slanted pockets with a ticket pocket (without a flap) and double vents, and there are 4-buttons on the sleeves. The trousers have double reverse pleats (today’s standard outward-facing pleats) and are tapered down the leg, finished with turn-ups. The light blue poplin, double-cuff shirt and square-pattern jacquard tie in navy, brown and light blue (pictured below) are from Turnbull & Asser. The shoes are black oxfords from Church’s.

The Suits of James Bond

Category Archives: Tomorrow Never Dies