In You Only Live Twice, Sean Connery wears an outfit of a linen sports shirt and linen trousers to be comfortable in Japan’s heat. His (darker) ecru shirt has a camp collar and a gently curved hem to be worn untucked. The front is plain with an open breast pocket, and the short sleeves have turned-up cuffs. There are 5 buttons down the front, and Connery leaves the top 2 buttons open. The shirt has a full cut for more comfort in Japan’s heat. Connery wears brown linen flat-front trousers with frogmouth pockets and brown leather sandals.
Compared to Q’s outfit of richer beige and tan tones, Connery wears greyer brown tones that better suit his cooler complexion. It doesn’t have to be Roger Moore in the 1970s for Bond to wear brown. In linen, especially, brown is a classic colour.
This week celebrates the 45th anniversary of the release of You Only Live Twice. In the film, Bond visits Japan wearing a suit in a lighter shade of blue than navy that is ideal for summer. In certain scenes, this suit has quite a shine and suggests a mohair/wool blend. Mohair and high twist wool are two of the best-performing suitings for warm weather because they breathe well and are great at resisting wrinkles. This is a classic Anthony Sinclair suit, with a 2-button front, natural shoulders with roped sleeveheads, a full chest and a gently suppressed waist. The jacket is detailed with a single vent, flapped pockets and 4-button cuffs. The trousers have double forward pleats, button side-adjusters and turn-ups.
Bond wears the suit with a sky blue poplin shirt from Turnbull & Asser that has a spread collar and cocktail cuffs. For a touch of Fleming, Bond wears a knit tie in a four-in-hand knot, but in navy rather than Fleming’s black. This is the only time Connery wears a knit tie outside of Goldfinger. The shoes are black grain leather, plain-toe slip-ons, probably with elastic connecting the quarters across the instep. Grain leather isn’t often seen in black since its rustic look is better suited with brown and burgundy country shoes. Bond brings along a navy felt trilby, which must surely be too warm to wear in what appears to be warm weather in Japan based on other clothes in the film. Overall this is one of the most Fleming-esque outfits of the series, and Fleming himself would surely approve of every part of the outfit except the shirt sleeves (Fleming preferred short sleeves, even with suits).
Blofeld’s first full appearance came in You Only Live Twice with Donald Pleasence‘s cartoon-like portrayal. Besides the bald head, scarred face and white cat, Pleasence’s Blofeld is also known for his Mao suit. The Mao suit represents the West’s biggest enemy at the time, communism, and it labels Blofeld as the enemy even though SPECTRE is not a communist organization. Blofeld’s tan silk Mao suit is tailored much like a western suit with structured shoulders and a structured chest, and it’s closely fitted through the body. Unlike typical Mao suits, Blofeld’s jacket only has two pockets instead of four. The pockets are patch pockets with button-flaps, but the buttons are left undone. The jacket has a 5-button front, a turn-down collar and a single vent at the back. The trousers have a narrow leg and plain bottoms. Underneath the jacket, Blofeld wears a white shirt with double cuffs. It’s probably a tunic shirt without a collar. His shoes are black slip-ons.
One example of this suit’s jacket was sold at Bonhams in Knightsbridge on 17 November 2005 for £25,200. According to the listing, M. Berman Ltd. made the jacket for Donald Pleasence.
Bond chose an all grey outfit for blending into Blofeld’s volcano in You Only Live Twice. To hide himself, he keeps his entire body covered except for the face. The outfit consists of a knit shirt with a mock polo neck collar (which Bond folds down), trousers, soft climbing shoes, gloves and an open-face ninja mask, all in mid grey. Bond later removes the gloves and ninja mask.
|Sean Connery in You Only Live Twice
The Blue No. 1 dress seen here is the best uniform and worn on ceremonial occasions. Bond wears this officer’s uniform for briefings in You Only Live Twice, The Spy Who Loved Me and Tomorrow Never Dies. The colour of the wool is a true navy, which almost looks black. The jacket is an 8-button double breasted with 4 to button, and the gilt buttons have a crown and anchor motif. The double-breasted lapels have a buttonhole in each peak. The jacket has jetted pockets, short double vents, and the rank insignia of commander on the sleeve, consisting of three rings of gold braid with the executive curl in the upper braid. The style of the trousers can vary, but often they are made with traditional forward pleats. They may have side adjusters, a self-belt or some other method of holding them up.
|Roger Moore with Desmond Llewelyn in The Spy Who Loved Me
Officers’ dress uniforms are typically made by bespoke tailors who specialize in military cuts. A military cut has strong, padded shoulders (often with roped sleeveheads), a clean chest and a long skirt. Connery and Moore may have had their uniforms made by their tailors Anthony Sinclair and Cyril Castle, respectively. However, it’s also possible that costumiers Bermans & Nathans made the uniforms. Bermans & Nathans made other naval wear for Moore in The Spy Who Loved Me. Brioni may have made Brosnan’s uniform, as it has a cut reminiscent of Brioni’s tailoring, but it’s still a possibility that costumiers Angels & Bermans made it.
|Pierce Brosnan with Joe Don Baker in Tomorrow Never Dies
A peaked cap with a white crown accompanies the uniform. Connery’s white shirt has a point collar and double cuffs and Brosnan’s shirt has a spread collar and single cuffs. Moore’s shirt has a point collar (with a large amount of tie space) but his jacket sleeves are too long and the shirt cuffs are not seen. They wear solid dark navy ties in a four-in-hand knot. The shoes are shined black leather, most likely oxfords.
Probably woven of red and white yarns, the pink linen shirt is ideal for warm-weather casual wear. Bond’s shirt is made by Turnbull & Asser with a spread collar, placket front and 2-button turnback cuffs. This shirt in You Only Live Twice is the only time in the series that we see Bond wearing turnback cuffs for casual wear. But this only shows how versatile the turnback cuff can be, from casual wear to lounge suits to black tie. Bond’s grey tropical wool trousers have side-tab waist adjusters, an extended tab front held with a clasp and frogmouth pockets. The trousers have a flat front and sit at the waist. Bond’s footwear is brown leather sandals, without socks of course. Sandals are something that Fleming’s Bond wore in the tropics, but in dark blue or black leather. However, in Fleming’s You Only Live Twice Bond wear black plastic sandals with nylon socks. Look for more about the novel in the future.
This is my first post regarding clothing from You Only Live Twice. Bond wears mostly casual clothes in the film, and since it’s all for warm weather I’ve been holding off until summer. But the first suit in the film is more of a spring suit than a summer suit. The fabric is herringbone weave in black and white, which look like solid grey from a distance. Herringbone, like other twills, is a tight weave that doesn’t breath as well as a plain weave, so it’s best to avoid for the warmest of weather. It’s tailored with wide, though natural, shoulders and roped sleeveheads, but it has a cleaner chest than what we’ve seen on Connery before. As always, the suit has a 2-button front and 4-button cuffs. The pockets are straight with flaps, and there is a single vent at the rear. The trousers are typical of Connery Bond suits: double forward pleats, button-tab side adjusters and turn-ups.
Bond’s ecru shirt is from Turnbull & Asser, made with a spread collar and 2-button turn back cuffs. The tie is a black grenadine and Bond’s socks are also black. The shoes aren’t worn much, as Bond removes them when entering Henderson’s home. The shoes he leaves at the door are black slip-ons with elastic in the instep. Bond leaves Henderson’s home without his shoes but takes the shoes from the thug who killed Henderson. I’ll discuss those another day.
In Thunderball, Bond wore a short black boot with his suits. It might be more appropriate to call it a tall shoe as it hardly reaches the ankle. It has no laces but it has elastic under the instep to help get it on and off. The literary Bond did not like laces, so this shoe is quite appropriate for the character. It’s more formal than a loafer and more acceptable for a suit.
This boot is made from 3 pieces of leather, the two quarters and the vamp. The two quarters are held together over the instep with a strip of elastic. The shoes is essentially a taller version of the Alfred Sargent Burlington pictured below. The shorter Burlington is very similar in style to the shoes Bond wore in You Only Live Twice.
This boot is not the same one that was worn in Goldfinger. The boot in Goldfinger (see picture below from the scene on the laser table) was more like a short Chelsea boot and with a elastic gusset on the sides. This boot was also worn in the Fort Knox scene.