In Licence to Kill, Bond wakes up in Sanchez’s compound wearing black pyjamas. They could be Sanchez’s own pyjamas lent to Bond or just extras he keeps around for guests. They are made from silk or a cotton blend in a black self-stripe. The top has 4 white (probably mother-of-pearl) buttons down the front and a camp collar. There are large pleats behind the shoulders for extra movement and comfort. The top is mid-hip length. Since pyjama style hasn’t changed much over the years, this outfit is one of the least offensive of the film.
Bond’s choice of bronze and blue tie made sense after he donned a vicuna-coloured overcoat over his blue birdseye suit for his arrival in Hamburg, Germany. The overcoat is more than just an afterthought. Typically one doesn’t coordinate his overcoat with the tie, but costume designer Lindy Hemming saw the overcoat as an integral part of the outfit. The full-length cashmere coat is tailored by Brioni with softly-padded shoulders and a full cut through the body. The coat has a six-button double-breasted front with two to button. The lapels are peaked with a buttonhole in each, the pockets are straight with flaps, and the cuffs have four buttons.
The navy birdseye suit is favourite of costume designer Lindy Hemming to dress on Pierce Brosnan. She put Brosnan in a navy birdseye suit in GoldenEye and designs an almost identical Brioni suit for Tomorrow Never Dies. This one is a three-piece suit with a 3-button jacket, 5-button waistcoat and double-reverse-pleat trousers. The jacket is cut with straight shoulders, roped sleeveheads, a less suppressed waist and a lowered button stance. It has double vents, slanted pockets with a ticket pocket and 4-button cuffs. Brosnan leaves the bottom button of his 5-button waistcoat open. The trousers have double reverse pleats and turn-ups.
The shirt and tie are made by Turnbull & Asser. The shirt is cream royal oxford and has a moderate spread collar and double cuffs. The tie is bronze floating ribs with blue squares on alternating ribs. Brosnan’s shoes are black brogues. The next entry will be on the cashmere overcoat Brosnan wears over this suit.
The shirt and tie were sold at auction at Bonhams in Knightsbridge on 16 June 2009 for £1,320, in a lot including other items.
A prisoner of Dr. No, Bond dons the Asian-influenced clothes provided for him as Dr. No’s guest. The main piece is a brown silk Nehru jacket. The jacket has five buttons down the front with curved sides. There are no vents in the back. Since the Nehru jacket is partially influenced by the lounge suit, they often have similar pockets. Whilst Bond’s Nehru jacket does not have hip pockets, it is has a welted breast pocket complete with a folded white linen pocket square. Underneath the Nehru jacket Bond wears a white crew-neck t-shirt.
Bond wears stone-coloured flat front trousers, probably in cotton poplin. The trousers have slanted pockets, an extended waistband and side tabs. The trousers have a plain hem, but in some shots he turns up the bottoms. These are identical in all but colour to one of the two pairs Connery wore in the outdoor scenes on Crab Key. Connery wears two different pairs of shoes. The first is a pair of navy canvas slip-ons with crepe soles. The second is a pair of navy canvas three-eyelet derbys with rubber soles and worn for the purpose of climbing through the pipes. These shoes were also worn in the outdoor scenes on Crab Key. It’s often the case in the Bond films where Bond wears different shoes in the same scene for stunt purposes.
In Quantum of Solace, Bond found in a locker a perfectly-fitted dinner suit that was almost a copy of Bond’s first dinner suit that Sean Connery wore to introduce the character in Dr. No. The Tom Ford dinner jacket is a midnight blue 1-button, shawl collar model, which Bond hasn’t worn since The Living Daylights. The jacket has jetted pockets and double vents, and even the gauntlet cuffs (now with 5-buttons instead of 4) have been retained. The shawl collar, cuffs, pocket jettings, button coverings and trouser stripe are black silk, slightly contrasting with the midnight blue mohair tonic.
The shirt and tie are also copies of Connery’s clothes. The shirt has a spread collar, double cuffs and a pleated front, but with mother of pearl studs instead of buttons. The bow-tie is the same diamond-end style as Connery’s, except it’s wider to better hamonise with the lapel width. Craig also includes a folded white linen pocket handkerchief. His shoes are black calf oxfords, not patent leather.
This black tie ensemble has a few differences from the one in Dr. No. The biggest difference is the trousers, which have a low rise and a flat front here whilst the trousers in Dr. No have double forward pleats with a longer rise. The trousers in Dr. No also have button-tab waist-adjusters, whilst these most likely have the same buckle side-adjusters as the the other suits in Quantum of Solace. Another significant difference is the waist-covering. Craig wears a cummerbund while Connery breaks black tie protocol and goes without any waist-covering. Some smaller differences include the addition of a buttonhole in the left lapel.
The cut and proportions of this dinner suit also differ from Connery’s. Following current trends, this dinner jacket has a trimmer cut, narrower shoulders and a higher button stance. Still, none of that is to the extreme and this dinner suit will still look good in years to come.
The opening scene of Casino Royale finds Bond in a pea coat, well-suited for a naval officer. The pea coat is a casual coat that’s most appropriately worn over a jumper or cardigan, as Bond wears it here. The length is around the same as a suit coat. Traditionally it’s a bit longer than a suit coat though today’s fashionable pea coat is made shorter. A traditional pea coat is a heavy dark navy blue wool melton, as Bond’s is. It has either 6 or 8 buttons on the front, as well as buttons under the collar so it can button all the way up for extra warmth, though Bond leaves it open. The buttons are horn, rather than the black plastic buttons with anchors typically associated with pea coats.
Underneath the coat Bond wears a charcoal ribbed-knit cardigan, that can be buttoned up to the collar. Bond leaves the top few buttons open and wears the cardigan with the collar turned up. Under the cardigan he wears a dark t-shirt. The trousers are probably grey and the shoes are dark brown or black calf John Lobb Romsey ankle boots.
For his visit to the Minister of Defence’s office and Q-Branch in For Your Eyes Only, James Bond wears a mid-grey, lightweight flannel two-piece suit. Whilst the lightweight flannel suiting is great for spring or autumn in London, the colour is much lighter than the colour of ordinary business suits. But since Bond’s business is far from ordinary, he is able to break the conventions of ordinary business dress. Still, Bond has to look appropriately dressed for business in Whitehall and look respectable for when meeting with M or the Minister of Defence, so he can’t stray too far from what is expected. This suit a typical Douglas Hayward example, cut with soft, natural shoulders, roped sleeveheads, a clean chest, a low button stance and a high gorge. This suit jacket has a button two front with deep double vents, flapped pockets and three-button cuffs.
The suit trousers have a darted front with frogmouth pockets, are cut with a straight leg, and are worn with a black belt. The trousers have a medium rise, which corresponds with the suit jacket’s lower button stance. Bond’s cream poplin shirt by Frank Foster has a spread collar, two-button mitred cuffs, a front placket stitched close to the centre and a darted back.
For Your Eyes Only brought Bond back to his origins after the over-the-top Moonraker. Along with the more traditional suits, here Roger Moore wears a grenadine tie like the ties Sean Connery so often wore in his Bond films. Whilst Connery always wore dark grenadine ties, this one is mid grey to match the suit. This is the only grenadine tie that James Bond has worn since Sean Connery played Bond. Moore ties the tie in a four-in-hand knot, and the thickness of the grenadine silk combined with a heavy interlining makes the knot quite thick.
One of Daniel Craig’s most popular outfits in Quantum of Solace is his jacket in Bolivia. The dark navy cotton, zip-front jacket is by Tom Ford. Ford’s inspiration came from the G4 Harrington jacket by Baracuta, who have made Harrington jackets for over half a century. The jacket has cuffs and a waistband that adjust with buttons. The jacket has slash pockets on the sides that close with buttons.
Underneath the jacket Bond wears a short-sleeve navy polo, also by Tom Ford. The polo is has a 2-button placket and a small chest pocket. For only the first time since Live and Let Die (apart from a brief appearance in Licence to Kill), Bond wears blue jeans. The jeans are by 7 For All Mankind in a dark blue “Mercer” wash. Jeans have become something for more than just labourers, and today people wear in a variety of environments. But are they appropriate for Bond?
Bond also wears Church’s Ryder III brown suede chukka boots and Tom Ford sunglasses.