My last entry covered Roger Moore’s navy blazer worn in California in Moonraker. Bond wears the blazer again later in Venice, but with a different shirt, tie and trousers. The black horsebit slip-ons stayed the same. This time the shirt is ecru instead of blue, but also with a point collar, placket front and tab cuffs. The trousers are darker, more tan than beige. And the tie has an ottoman rib with wide stripes in light olive and magenta, a narrow stripe in purple, and stripes of ovals in pink. The stripes are in the American direction, which go from the right shoulder down to the left hip. In my opinion this is Roger Moore’s worst tie of his seven Bond films and amongst the worst ties of the series.
I’m not talking about a “Tuxedo” as in what Americans call a dinner suit. I’m talking about the outfit consisting of blue blazer and khakis, which is sometimes referred to as the “California Tuxedo”. It’s probably called such because its more formal than what most people wear in the casual State of California. Bond appropriately wears this outfit on his arrival in California in Moonraker. The button two blazer is made in a deep navy blue wool hopsack. Hopsack is a basket weave, seen in the illustration below:
The blazer, made by Angelo Roma, is cut with a clean chest and straight, narrow shoulders with a roped sleevehead. The wide lapels and the pocket flaps have swelled edges. The blazer has slanted pockets, long double vents and four cuff buttons. The buttons are silver with four holes and sewn with a contrasting navy blue thread.
Typically the trousers worn as part of the “California Tuxedo” are chinos though Bond’s trousers are beige wool cavalry twill. Bond’s flat front trousers are worn with a black belt and the legs are cut with a slight flair. The sky blue poplin shirt has a tall and long point collar, placket front and tab cuffs, similar to all the other shirts Bond wears in Moonraker. The striped tie in navy, red, white and beige adds more to the American look with it’s stripes in the American direction. The subtlety of the stripes comes to life in the close-up shots. Bond’s shoes are black bit loafers. Though brown would have been a better choice with the beige trousers, the black keeps things a little more British.
This blazer is worn again in Venice, but the rest of the outfit is completely different. My next blog entry will cover that outfit.
Occasionally I’ll be sourcing material outside the Bond series, from both related films and television programmes. For Sean Connery’s return to the role of James Bond in the unofficial Bond film Never Say Never Again, the wardrobe was inspired by his original Bond films. The first suit of the film is a dark grey mini-herringbone. The style very similar to Douglas Hayward’s suits made for Roger Moore at the time, with it’s low 2-button front and high gorge. The shoulders are narrow and soft, following the natural shoulder line, and the sleeveheads are roped. The chest is clean and the waist is suppressed. The details of the jacket include 3-button cuffs, flapped pockets and double vents. The pick-stitching on the lapels and collar are especially noticeable on the suits in this film, though you won’t see it if you’re not looking for it. The trousers of this suit aren’t really seen and all I can tell is that they are flat front like the trousers in the rest of the film. I don’t know if Connery returned to Anthony Sinclair for this film, but I suspect another tailor was used.
The shirts for Never Say Never Again were made by Turnbull & Asser and Frank Foster. Frank Foster made shirts for both Roger Moore and George Lazenby. The shirts in the film have a spread collar and button-down turnback cuffs, a speciality of Frank Foster which I will look at more closely at a later date. The shirt worn with this suit is pale blue. Connery wears a plain black tie tied with the dreaded Windsor knot. Bond’s clothes in the film are English enough despite its American direction.
Two weeks ago I covered George Lazenby’s poorly received brown and orange golf clothing, but the shoes worn with that outfit will be discussed in more detail here today. The slip-ons are made on a narrow, elongated last with a slightly pointed toe, a fashionable style in the 1960s. The shoes are made in brown suede, slightly darker than typical tobacco-coloured suede. They have a plain toe with a monk strap across the vamp with a buckle, though I wouldn’t consider these to be monk shoes. Slip-ons are usually made with a lower vamp than lace-up or monk shoes so they are easier to put on and take off. The shoes have a long last, which is emphasised by the plain toe. A shoe like this will be very difficult to find ready-made, as it’s in between a slip-on and a monk. Nevertheless it’s an elegant pair of shoes that is the highlight of Bond’s golf outfit in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.
Last month I talked about Bond’s first notched-lapel dinner jacket in Goldfinger, and in For Your Eyes Only we first see Roger Moore in a notched-lapel dinner jacket out to dinner and the casino. The notched lapel style dinner jacket isn’t appropriate for a large black tie function, but it’s great for a simple night out for dinner and at the casino. Moore’s black dinner jacket made by Douglas Hayward has a button one front, jetted pockets, three-button cuffs and double vents. Typically the buttons on a dinner jacket are covered in silk matching the lapels, but here the buttons are black horn like those often found on a suit. The trousers have a silk stripe down the sides and are cut with a flat front and straight leg. The trousers also have a sort of waistband that acts like a built-in cummerbund. The waistband is very wide, flat silk that extends across the entire front and fastens with two buttons at the right side.
Bond’s shirt made by Frank Foster has a spread collar, rounded-corner double cuffs and a pleated front. The cloth is white cotton with a tonal stripe, making this shirt similar to the dress shirt in Goldfinger. All parts of the shirt are made from the same tonal-stripe cotton. The shirt has regular mother of pearl buttons down the front placket.
Bond visits Q-Branch in Goldfinger wearing a dark blue button two suit made by Anthony Sinclair. The cloth has a mottled appearance and is fairly heavy, probably flannel. The cloth has a faint self stripe that most likely means the cloth is woven in a herringbone weave.
The suit jacket has narrow notched lapels with swelled edges, natural shoulders with a little roping at the sleevehead, a full-cut chest, jetted pockets and four-button cuffs. The jacket has the popular 1960’s detail of cloth-covered buttons. The cloth used is, of course, the same cloth that the suit is made from. Not just formalwear can have covered buttons. Though we can’t tell how many vents this suit has, we see more of it in Woman of Straw and there we can see—though not too clearly—it has double vents. The suit trousers are Connery’s usual, with double forward pleats and button-tab side adjusters with three buttons. Like the other trousers in Goldfinger, these have a plain hem.
Bond’s shirt is white with a faint broken grey stripe and has a spread collar, front placket and double cuffs. The navy knit tie is tied with a four-in-hand knot. The sporty nature of this suit—flannel with covered buttons—makes the knitted tie fitting with this suit. Bond’s shoes are black ankle boots that slip-on with elastic on the sides. The outfit is completed with a white linen pocket handkerchief in a basic TV fold.
Most of the villains in the Bond films have expensive tastes, and Bond occasionally enjoys borrowing their things: their vehicles, their champagne, their women, and their clothing. At the end of The Man With The Golden Gun, Bond escapes from Scaramanga’s Island in his junk and puts on Scaramanga’s luxurious black silk dressing gown. It’s a basic dressing gown with a shawl collar and a belt. It is lined in a white fabric, probably also silk. Now that Scaramanga is dead, he won’t mind Bond wearing his clothes, though I’m not sure I would care to wear another man’s dressing gown. Hopefully it’s clean!
Diamonds Are Forever brings Bond into the 1970s with some new styles. Suits in the 1970s saw a revival of 1930s style, most notably in wider lapels and wider trouser legs. Whilst Roger Moore is most remembered for his numerous sports coats, Sean Connery wears three sports coats in Diamonds Are Forever. The first is a button three half Norfolk sports coat in a brown and black herringbone tweed, and this is the first time we see Connery wearing a button three coat. This coat takes after 1930’s sports coats with its belted back, but the deep double vents update the style to the 1970s. It appears that this sports coat lacks breast pocket, though I can’t promise you that it isn’t there. The hip pockets are patch pockets with flaps and bellows for a larger capacity. It also has the sporting detail of leather buttons. The sleeves have two buttons on each cuff.
The brown of this sports coat is the best kind of brown for someone with a cool complexion. Red-browns suit people with a cool complexion better than yellow- or green-browns do. The black mixed in with the brown mutes the colour and makes it more flattering to someone with a cool complexion than a richer brown would.
The style of this sports coat is called “half Norfolk” because it incorporates some elements of a Norfolk jacket. Whilst a Norfolk jacket has a full belt, a half Norfolk jacket has a belt only across the back. The bellows pockets on this sports coat are like those typically found on a Norfolk jacket.
Bond wears the half Norfolk jacket with black plain-front trousers with a plain hem. Underneath the sports coat Bond wears a black long-sleeve Polo jumper. Bond’s socks are black and his shoes are black ankle boots.