James Bond quickly puts on some clothes to “take a little exercise” late at night at Shrublands health clinic in Thunderball. He wears the same light brown flat front cavalry twill trousers with frogmouth pockets he wears earlier, and throws on a black long-sleeve polo shirt. The polo shirt has a three-button placket with white buttons. Bond rolls up the sleeves up over the elbow and they stay firmly in place. However, there is a continuity error in this scene: in the close-up when Bond unwraps Major Derval’s face his sleeves are no longer rolled up. Bond takes his exercise without shoes or socks.
Whereas Sean Connery and George Lazenby wear solid grenadine and knitted ties in their James Bond films, Roger Moore often wears solid ties in other weaves. In The Man with the Golden Gun (below), Roger Moore wears a red tie with a pebbled effect with his grey chalk stripe suit, that may be created by floated yarns to give the tie texture. Turnbull & Asser’s “Lace” ties are a great example of a textured pattern.
The satin silk tie is the shiniest tie and is most appropriately worn in the evening or for more formal occasions. The satin weave has an even shine due to a high number of floats. The light blue satin tie that Moore wears with his navy double-breasted blazer below is also from The Man with the Golden Gun.
The last tie of this entry is the shantung silk tie. Shantung silk is woven in a plain weave and has a ribbed and slubby yet very shiny surface. It’s very unique and can be worn for a variety of occasions. The blue shantung silk tie that Moore wears with his single-breasted blazer below is from The Spy Who Loved Me.
Daniel Craig’s Brioni dinner jacket in Casino Royale has been a great inspiration to many over the past four years since the film was released. But many of the fine details of the outfit are known thanks to an article by Christopher Bray and Nick Foulkes titled “Dressed to kill; Barbara Broccoli calls Daniel Craig’s Bond ‘a tough guy in a dinner jacket’. But getting his look right proved the wardrobe team’s toughest mission,” published 30 October 2006 in Mail on Sunday. The black dinner jacket takes its cues from the most traditional of evening wear. It has a button one front, grosgrain silk trimmed peak lapels, jetted pockets and no vents. There are four buttons on the cuffs, and according to the article by Bray and Foulkes the buttons are horn. From what I can see in the movie I would have guessed they are fabric-covered buttons (and they very well may be), though perhaps they are horn, albeit very thick and shanked. More likely the writers of the article were confused because the trouser buttons do appear to be regular horn. The cut is very characteristic of Brioni, with straight, padded shoulders, a clean chest and a suppressed waist. The buttoning point is at the waist. The sleevehead is roped for a more British touch, and the lapels are slightly on the narrow side and cut with a high gorge.
The classic Italian-cut trousers have single reverse pleats and a slightly shorter than traditional rise, but higher than what’s common today. There is no cummerbund or waistcoat worn here, left out to give the outfit a more modern look and to show off Daniel Craig’s abs. On the other hand, Bond’s trousers are held up by braces, the most traditional method of keeping up one’s trousers. The braces are white moiré silk (a type of watered silk) with gilt brass fittings, made by Albert Thurston and provided by Gieves and Hawkes.
The shirt is made by Turnbull & Asser in a white-on-white waffle weave. The shirt has a spread collar and double cuffs with a mitred corner. The front of the shirt has a placket with hidden buttons. There are short side pleats at the upper back of the shirt and darts to fit the shirt in the small of the back. S.T. Dupont made the palladium cuff links. The bow tie is black shantung silk. Bond wears black calf two-eyelet derby shoes, the John Lobb Luffield model. He doesn’t wear patent leather shoes this time, he just shines them well.
Costume designer Lindy Hemming talked about the dinner suit: “For the evening suit, he [Daniel Craig] was happy to go with Brioni, the Italian design company we’ve used on the last four films, because he knows and likes their style. But, because of Daniel’s more muscular physique, the evening suit is a new shape, so he looks modern in it. It’s fashionable to wear suits at the moment, so it doesn’t look anachronistic, and Daniel likes the tailored look.”
One of the most famous scenes in the James Bond series is the golf match in Goldfinger. The wine-coloured V-neck jumper is the main piece here, with its gold Slazenger panther logo on the chest. The jumper has a full fit, since people generally wore their knits looser in the 1960s than they do now. Connery wears the heavy-ribbed cuffs turned back. The heavy-ribbed hem sits over the top of the trouser pockets. Underneath the jumper Bond wears a light grey long-sleeve polo shirt. Bond’s charcoal wool trousers have frogmouth pockets, narrow straight legs and a plain hem.
At the end of Quantum of Solace, Bond dresses well for snowy weather, something I’ve been experiencing a lot of lately in New York. Bond wears a ten-button double-breasted, knee-length black herringbone wool greatcoat with flapped pockets and a belted back. Draped around his neck is a brown and black glen plaid silk scarf. Both the coat and scarf are from Tom Ford. Bond also wears black or dark brown gloves.
Very little of the suit underneath the overcoat can be seen, but in the book Bond on Set, by Greg Williams, there is a full length picture of Bond where the trousers are visible. It appears from the picture that the suit is dark charcoal grey and is likely the same suit Bond wears in London earlier in the film. The shirt is white with a spread collar and double cuffs.
The tie is a pattern of ovals, either in black and silver or dark brown and silver. Tom Ford produced the tie in both colours and in different parts of the scene the tie looks like it could be either colour from the changes in lighting. Bond’s shoes are black oxfords from Church’s.
Moonraker featured Roger Moore’s first 3-piece suit as Bond. For next twenty years after this through The World is Not Enough, Bond always visited M’s office in a 3-piece suit. The only exception to this is GoldenEye, and that suit was actually made with a waistcoat though it wasn’t used. The 3-piece suit in Moonraker is navy with a narrow white pinstripe, but the pinstripes are so closely spaced that from a distance the suit appears solid. The white of the pinstripes blends in with the dark navy making the suit appear to be more of a charcoal blue. Overall it’s a semi-solid appearance rather than a stripe. Though it’s the first suit of this kind worn by Bond, Roger Moore wore a number of narrow pinstripe suits in The Saint.
The suit is cut like the others from Moonraker and The Spy Who Loved Me. The suit coat has a two-button front, extra wide lapels, straight shoulder and roped sleeveheads, clean chest, nipped waist and deep double vents. The sleeves have a traditional 4-button cuff. The lower pockets are straight with flaps. Apart from the wide lapels the coat has a traditional military-influenced cut, which can also be noted by its longer length. The trousers have a wide leg and are cut with a slight flare. The waistcoat has either 5 or 6 buttons but we don’t get to see the bottom. All we can tell is that it doesn’t have lapels.
The shirt is a light ecru poplin with a tall, long point collar and tab cuffs. Bond’s tie is silver with navy stripes (in the British direction) and dots in between, and it is tied with a tight four-in-hand knot and no dimple. Bond wears black Italian horsebit loafers with a tall heel, a style that might be considered too casual to wear with a business suit.
Moonraker‘s pre-title sequence involves a skydiving scene, and his skydiving stuntman (Jake Lombard) can be identified by his different clothing. For his studio shots, Roger Moore wears a marine blue wool serge double-breasted blazer with six buttons and two to fasten. Whilst traditionally any double-breasted jacket should have peak lapels, this one has the faux pas of notch lapels, made even worse by their excessive width. The lapels have swelled edges. The sleeves have three buttons and the back has double vents. The hip pockets are patch pockets with flaps. The blazer’s buttons are polished brass with four holes and sewn with contrasting navy thread.
With the blazer, Roger Moore wears a thin beige wool jumper with a ribbed polo neck collar, ribbed cuffs and a ribbed hem. He wears the jumper untucked. The mid grey flannel trousers are cut with a wide, flared leg.
The differences between Roger Moore’s clothes and the stuntman’s are:
- Roger Moore’s blazer has double vents and the stuntman’s blazer has a single vent. The single vent helps hide the parachute better and doesn’t flap about so much in the windy sky. However like notch lapels, a single vent on a double-breasted jacket is a faux pas. Along with the single vent, the blazer has a break-away seam down the centre back to allow the parachute to open.
- Roger Moore’s blazer has brass buttons with holes to sew through and the stuntman’s blazer has shanked brass buttons.
- Roger Moore’s blazer has three buttons on the cuffs whilst the stunkman’s blazer has only one button on the cuffs.
- Roger Moore wears horsebit slip-ons whilst the stuntman wears lace-up four-eyelet derby shoes with an apron front, so the stuntman’s toe still looks similar to Moore’s toe. Obviously, lace-ups will stay on better when skydiving.
With the blazer, Roger Moore wears a thin beige wool jumper with a ribbed polo neck collar, ribbed cuffs and a ribbed hem. He wears the jumper untucked. The mid grey flannel trousers are cut with a flared leg.
Roger Moore has said, “Of course I do my own stunts. And I also do my own lying.”
Since it’s now well into winter in the northern hemisphere I’ll be writing about something cold-weather appropriate, an outfit from On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Bond wears a light brown cardigan with a five-button front, raglan sleeves, and open patch pockets. Bond sometimes leaves the top button open and folds back the cuffs. The shirt is brushed cotton twill in a small tattersall pattern in (what appears to be) tan, navy and green on an ecru ground. The shirt has a spread collar, button cuffs and a plain front without a placket.
The trousers are a brown tick-pattern tweed from Sir Hilary Bray’s tick-pattern suit he wears earlier in the film. The trousers are fairly slim cut and sit a little below the waist. They have double forward pleats, slanted pockets and button side tabs. The bottoms are finished with turn-ups, which sit on top of brown wing-tip derby shoes. You’ve probably noticed Bond’s Rolex Chronograph in the close-up picture of the shirt cuffs. For the record it is ref. 6238.